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Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by minbari View Post
Lol, ossum.

I charged up my dads flash on his camera, then touched wires together on the big cap. Made a huge, blinding spark and welded the wires on there. Pretty much loved electronics after that, lol
Just thought of this, minbari when you have time can you check over my
LED mod I posted a few days ago? Mikefromgermany wanted to drive several
LED's from the LED output of his PCB, and I think we found a solution
using a transistor and a few resistors.

The idea was to light extra LED's without any extra load on the host circuit.

It works on my 9116, but that does not mean it is correct

You just had to spill the beans about being an EE, huh? Now I will pester
you all the time... J/K.

Just whenever you get time. Thanks in advance,
Steve

P.S. My first "experience" was laying a metal rod across the prongs of my Lionel
train transformer, and then plugging it in the wall. It was awesome.

By age 12, I built a relay oscillator and was collecting the inductive kick from transformers, storing them in
HV caps. Driven by a pair of 9V Nicad batteries, it would charge to 800 volts.

It was basically a highly modified version of a neon lamp inverter circuit
that I found in one of those Forrest Mimms project books.

All this in a box the size of a camera. It would almost weld lockers shut.
This was in the early 80's, long before tasers were popular.
That one almost got me kicked out of school.

I was a 60lb weakling, but rarely got picked on The other kids were scared
to death of me.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
Try removing the blades and raising throttle to max. Weak servos shouldn't have a problem raising cyclic with no blades.
done that, same results.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by janmykelg View Post
done that, same results.
Same results as in it doesn't work?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
But it does not explain the ESC getting hot on the bench with no load.
If the ESC gets hot with the servo horns removed, I would suspect a
faulty servo or ESC.
esc gets hot even with the main and tail blades removed, i'd say about 2 or 3 mins of throttle up or less

i'm lost here guys, to tell u da truth
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Same results as in it doesn't work?
yup, servos still working crazy on throttle up w/o the blades.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:42 PM
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I just looked that bird up. Holy crap. Not a beginner helicopter.
If you are starting out with that, you have stones the size of
grapefruits.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:43 PM
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I guess I would run the same tests again, but disconnect one servo at a time and do it.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
I just looked that bird up. Holy crap. Not a beginner helicopter.
If you are starting out with that, you have stones the size of
grapefruits.
haha that's funny. thats what my friend told me too

i started out with a 3 channel heli that my girlfriend bought me a few months ago and then after that i got hooked pretty hard to the hobby.

im pretty much doing everything i can to understand how the electronics works.

actually im still at the hovering stage, good thing i had the phoenix simu to practice with
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
I guess I would run the same tests again, but disconnect one servo at a time and do it.
okay, i'll try that but not at this moment. people are sleeping, it's actually 3am here in the philippines
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by janmykelg View Post
esc gets hot even with the main and tail blades removed, i'd say about 2 or 3 mins of throttle up or less

i'm lost here guys, to tell u da truth
Yes, but does the ESC get hot just sitting idle?

Or only after you have ran the motor a few minutes?

At idle, a bad servo could generate heat in the BEC section of the
ESC, that's why I ask.

That is a BIG motor, so it may be normal for ESC to heat up after
a couple minutes of spooling up. But to be honest, if it's getting hot
after a couple minutes without the blades, imagine how hot it will
be after a 5 minute flight under load...

Dunno, way bigger than anything I have messed with (hobby stuff anyway).
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:16 PM
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if it cant move the swash up and down and in all cyclic directions on the bench with no blades on it, I would be looking more at the FBL controller setup. With no blades loading the servos they should be able to move that swash with ease. doesnt even have a flybar to force around, it is just moving the grips

also, are we talking about the 450 version or the 600?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by minbari View Post
if it cant move the swash up and down and in all cyclic directions on the bench with no blades on it, I would be looking more at the FBL controller setup. With no blades loading the servos they should be able to move that swash with ease. doesnt even have a flybar to force around, it is just moving the grips

also, are we talking about the 450 version or the 600?
450 version

i can still move the swash up and down, left and right, tilt forward or backward on throttle up even when it's moving on its own.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Yes, but does the ESC get hot just sitting idle?

Or only after you have ran the motor a few minutes?

At idle, a bad servo could generate heat in the BEC section of the
ESC, that's why I ask.

That is a BIG motor, so it may be normal for ESC to heat up after
a couple minutes of spooling up. But to be honest, if it's getting hot
after a couple minutes without the blades, imagine how hot it will
be after a 5 minute flight under load...

Dunno, way bigger than anything I have messed with (hobby stuff anyway).
yes, after i ran the motor a few minutes it gets hot
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:43 PM
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It is sounding more and more like an fbl setup issue. If the servos can move, but are just moving weird, then the gyros are doing it

Not sure how you so it. But run this test. Make you pitch curve so you only get about 3 Max pitch. Then disable the fbl gyros. Spin up and see if the problem goes away

Ps, you DONT want to take off
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 03:00 PM
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I'm an old fart, so maybe I missed it (I've read the thread twice but that doesn't mean it's not right there). And I'm only an old tv repairman. not an engineer or nuthin.
But the speed controller for the motor is getting hot... and I don't see where anybody has asked what size motor and how many amps is the esc rated for?

First thread says you replaced all 3 servos and the problem started. Put back the 3 old servos and bench test - does the problem go away?

Go back to basics (we used to use flow charts). Unplug everything except the motor - still get hot? If no, unplug the motor, bypass the fbl gyro and plug the servos directly into a receiver - do they still chatter and does the esc get hot?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by karlik View Post
I'm an old fart, so maybe I missed it (I've read the thread twice but that doesn't mean it's not right there). And I'm only an old tv repairman. not an engineer or nuthin.
But the speed controller for the motor is getting hot... and I don't see where anybody has asked what size motor and how many amps is the esc rated for?

First thread says you replaced all 3 servos and the problem started. Put back the 3 old servos and bench test - does the problem go away?

Go back to basics (we used to use flow charts). Unplug everything except the motor - still get hot? If no, unplug the motor, bypass the fbl gyro and plug the servos directly into a receiver - do they still chatter and does the esc get hot?
I didn't ask because he was flying it previously, the problems showed up
after servo replacement. So there is a good chance the motor & ESC combo
are compatible.

Perhaps parameters for the ESC somehow got changed or reset. If it is not
properly set up for the motor you are driving, all kinds of weird things could happen.
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Last edited by Steve_; Dec 05, 2012 at 03:17 PM.
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