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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:03 PM
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Aug 2012
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exi 450 pro flybar lenghts

So I've searched around for a answer but can't seem to come up with the answer i need.

I have an exi 450 pro that is all but ready to fly, I just need to finish setting the flybar up.

I've followed the align 450 manual up to this point but it suggest the paddles be ~75mm from the hub mine are much closer to 60. If i have them out at the 70mm mark they start to fall off and not hold.

Also now that I'm typing this i'll aks (im sure the answer is out there too), do i want to set fb angle to 0 degrees while at mid stick?

Thanks
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:58 AM
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whiskykid's Avatar
United States, WA, Port Angeles
Joined Dec 2009
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you can't go by the lenghts given in the trex manual. what you need to do is screw the paddels on till there tight, and level with each other, then just make shure they are equal distance from the flybar cage!

and yes you want everything level when at mid stick! ( zero deg's on paddels and mains)
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 01:30 AM
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United States, CA, San Jose
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thanks... good to hear i'm not totally off!
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 09:01 PM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Sep 2012
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When I install my flybars I use a ruler and center the bar, then secure it. Then I tighten down the fins so they are the same distance from the head.

Shorter flybars will be more responsive, longer flybars will be a little more sluggish (better for beginners).
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 12:27 AM
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zen@lanset.com's Avatar
Berkeley, California
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFDelie View Post
Shorter flybars will be more responsive, longer flybars will be a little more sluggish (better for beginners).
Not quite: short fly bars are both sluggish and sloppy (which is why most 450 manufacturers now use 220 mm), the longer ones give prompt, precise cyclic responses .... of course the fly bar paddles play a major role in determining pitch and roll rates. But longer bars give the most precise handling and feel regardless of the rate of change.

I say this after installing a 190 mm fly bar on an Align 450 SE V2 after flying 220 mm's for years. I thought it would be really quick. Instead it was slow as heck and made the cyclic vague as h311. It really stunk, so after that one flight back went the 220 mm.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 11:57 AM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2012
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Killerjupe put the flybar in then measure both sides from the flybar cage and make even. I then tighten the flybar down one screw, loctite the other (then tighten), then back the first one out and loctite it as well (tighten). Then screw the paddles on until they are equal distances from the flybar cage, and tighten set screws (on my exi I used to I screw the paddles on until just after my paddle set screws would clear the flybar threads).

Equal distances, and more so balance, matters hugely on things with high rpm. Some people balance their flybar (with paddles on) on a balancer, and add weight to the lighter paddle or lightly sand the heavy one. Some say on a 450 heli these small things don't matter as much, others just want their bird to fly optimally and do everything possible.

Yes, set paddles to zero degrees. You can just level them out with the flybar cage, looking straight on from the paddle to the cage... the screws that hold the cage together are useful for this, as a pitch gauge seems to make the paddle move around anyway.

Your flybar is a very important part of your heli.
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Last edited by finguz; Dec 07, 2012 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 01:58 PM
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zen@lanset.com's Avatar
Berkeley, California
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finguz knows how to do it. I am a fly bar paddle balancer myself and use a metal vernier caliper to measure the ends of the fly bar relative to the headblock and the distance of the paddles on each side too. When you take a bit of time the heli flies silk-smooth.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:18 PM
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Aug 2012
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Well guess my gf will just have to go out w/ her friends tonight while I play w/ heli

Quote:
Originally Posted by finguz View Post
Killerjupe put the flybar in then measure both sides from the flybar cage and make even. I then tighten the flybar down one screw, loctite the other (then tighten), then back the first one out and loctite it as well (tighten). Then screw the paddles on until they are equal distances from the flybar cage, and tighten set screws (on my exi I used to I screw the paddles on until just after my paddle set screws would clear the flybar threads).

Equal distances, and more so balance, matters hugely on things with high rpm. Some people balance their flybar (with paddles on) on a balancer, and add weight to the lighter paddle or lightly sand the heavy one. Some say on a 450 heli these small things don't matter as much, others just want their bird to fly optimally and do everything possible.

Yes, set paddles to zero degrees. You can just level them out with the flybar cage, looking straight on from the paddle to the cage... the screws that hold the cage together are useful for this, as a pitch gauge seems to make the paddle move around anyway.

Your flybar is a very important part of your heli.
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