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Old Jan 04, 2013, 03:37 PM
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Joined Sep 2009
172 Posts
Man you do GOOD work! Can't wait to see them finished.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 01:18 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Nice to see the complements, thanks. I have some more done, time to glue a deck on next. For a tight fit at the bow, you will see that the bow is sanded down ever so slightly. The radius in the corner of the deck molding runs into the top corner and prevents a tight fit. Now it has room to pull back. It is probably not noticable, but the keel box and rudder block has been covered with thin plywood. This will keep the grain in the solid woods from splitting as the ply is bi-directional. Also note that I did a quick solder on the split side of the jib fairlead. It was sharp edged and the solder will round the edges nicely. Be quick as the plastic melts. Another item is the gluing in of the main bulkhead. It is not glued for the top inch or two. This is so that the deck joint can move out a bit if it has to in order to meet the deck lip. After the deck is on, glue can be put in this joint. Next time the deck should be on and the joints around the transon filled and sanded smooth.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 01:38 PM
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United States, ID, CDA
Joined Aug 2005
619 Posts
Can't wait!
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 04:16 PM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
525 Posts
@BennDave

Looking nice... great build....

Re the power switch - can I suggest you should perhaps make up = on instead of down = on?

I have used a similar switch in a couple of my boats and just occasionally you get a sheet snagged on the switch - if up=off you could finish up with the power off

Other fix for snagging is a loop of wire over the switch
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 11:24 PM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
USA, CA, Fresno
Joined Apr 2004
7,317 Posts
Very nice build.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 03:28 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Hmmmm... Yes, pro's and con's for switch orientation. You guys are good and don't miss a trick. I use up = off on my Soling 1M with the idea of making it as low as possible for snagging sheets. Putting it between the mast and shrouds keeps it out of the way most of the time. I have seen a wrap of sheet around it a couple of times, but the stiff movement in the switch and mostly sideways pull from the sheet has not alowed it to turn off. (yet?) Being lower it has unwrapped itself, and not had to land to be fixed. The biggest thing that has happened was upon returning home from out of town, the boat was dead. The switch had been bumped and it got turned on for hours in the car. If it had happened when leaving, I would have arrived with a boat that I could not race. I made a plastic piece that clips over the wire part that does not allow it to push down. I don't launch if I see that red plastic, the boat can't be on. I am going to leave it as is for now. It can be changed later if there are problems. I do apreciate your concern and sugestions to keep me out of trouble, so keep them coming if you see something!
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:52 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

I have worked up some sheet fairleads and deck eye fastening hardware. The deck eyes go through a block of plastic into a 4-40 blind nut. They are not glued in so they can be changed out if the threads get damaged. The fairleads are made from brass barbed fittings for small hose ends. Cut the barb off the underdeck fitting and drill out so the top deck fitting will fit through it. Glue some backing styrene under the deck that can be melted without it showing on deck. Fit the top deck fitting through and lay upside down on some wet paper towel, put the below deck fairlead on and solder together. The sacrafical plastic backing will melt a little as the solder flows, but the wet towel will keep the deck side from melting. Be cautious as it is close to a melt. Hit the fitting with wet paper towel the second you feel the solder is as far as you can heat it, hopefully this will minimise any melting plastic. File off the protruding barb end, then use a counter-sink bit to clean out the fairlead. Hold it well to keep it from spinning with the drill, this keeps it tight in it's hole. Re-sand and polish the fitting to finish.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 03:21 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Thanks and glad you are enjoying this Soling Millertime, that is some steam launch for your avatar. As it is easier to turn the deck over to see where holes need to be, I made the hatch fastening. Also determined the Rx placement and hold down. These will be finished up later, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't regret putting the deck on by that point. I used square tubing for the forward bolt, it is more solid than flat stock. The flat stock bends downwards if the hole doesn't line up, and makes it more difficult to put the hatch on, as you have to keep bending it back up. The Soling hatch fits so tightly onto the raised lip, the cap screw in the lid hole is all you need to hold the rear. This finishes up all I can do building the inside hull section. The next post will have a deck glued on!
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:32 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Glued the deck on this morrning. Added the Rx mount, which should take care of any more plastic gluing. Might have some to clean up the transon joint? Long ago I glued the mast together so it would be absolutly dry when I go to work on it. It was a mystery to me when, after gluing it together, it fit in the box for storing. The mystery has been solved now. When sizing it up to begin, it is found to be five inches too short. The sail luff is longer than the mast. I will have to get some wood and make a one piece mast from scratch.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:00 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Not only was the mast short, the jib boom didn't fit the bill either. With a long week-end coming up, I hope to make some more progress building.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 01:42 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

I found a nice piece of spruce and cut a new mast. The old mast became a main and jib boom. When sanded to final shape, they all got stained a Spanish Walnut. The mast head crane and bottom cap were made and fitted on, and sail out-haul tubes were fitted on the booms. A brass ring is crazy glued onto the outboard ends of the booms also. Now two coats of spar varnish were applied. After making all the other mast and boom fittings, the final coats of varnish can be painted after removing the fittings that will come off.
More on the mast later, today I want to show the boom attachment fittings. Drill a 5/64" hole through 1/8th OD brass tube, then tap it 2-56. By tapping the hole, the hole can be kept as small as possible. Drill the crossway 3/32" hole through the forestay fitting and boom (not the tube). Run a 1/8th hole up to meet the crossway hole and work the hole and tube untill a 2-56 screw can be fit through both pieces. Next drill a 1/8th hole in some 1/4" flat brass, and two 1/16" holes for screws beside it. Fit this all in place and solder the tube to the flat brass, then remove to finish. Squeeze the end of tube flat and drill with a 1/16" drill. Final shape and polish to a shine. Using split rings, fasten a bearing swivel and hook to catch the deck eye. Re-assemble with a round head screw, flat washers and nut. 0X3/8 wood screws hold swivel fitting and forestay fitting in place. The sheet attachments use the same 1/8th brass tube and 1/4" flat stock idea.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 02:38 PM
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United States, ID, CDA
Joined Aug 2005
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Really looking nice.

Terry
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 12:23 AM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
USA, CA, Fresno
Joined Apr 2004
7,317 Posts
Nice metal work.
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 03:40 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Thank-you again for the nice compliments. I also recieved a nice e-mail from another builder of a Mini Soling, his mast was short too. He wondered if the four spar blanks were mixed up when cutting the scarf to join the mast. That might leave a couple of short ones? Good point. I have made the spar components and can finish the varnish job. The standing rigging and running rigging is yet to be made, but it will paint easier without wire swagged onto some parts. I have ordered the grafics and should have them after a week. Metal work is time comsuming and seems to slow things down in any progress forward. And I'm not nearly as fussy as I used to be. Eyes can't see as well. So we will see if it starts to all come together now.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 09:32 AM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

I'm ready to start painting. Final assembly looms ahead, followed by the maiden sail and tuning the rig. Most of the pieces needed to complete this project have been rounded up or made. The grafic's will be ready to pick up on Monday. One or two coats of varnish on the spars will finish them. As Hannibal of the "A Team" says, "I love it when a plan comes together!".
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