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Old Dec 03, 2012, 03:35 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Build Log
Victor - Mini Soling 30"

RC Sailing can always use new blood in our sport. It doesn't come out of a box ready to go, make a lot of noise, or have anything virtual on a computer to do with it. Not real catchy for the younger bunch. To try and interest my Grandson I will try the Victor Model Products Mini Soling. They make three models of Solings, a 1 meter that I race, a mini at 30", and a half Soling at 20". As our Hobby Shop had a Mini in stock, the choice was made. A 30" boat will usually sail in most conditions and is small enough for him to launch and move around himself. My other boats are too big for him to help with, and so of no interest for him. The keel is not removable, so build it and the rudder to start.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 03:57 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Victor Mini Soling 30"

The keel finished at 2 lbs 13.4 oz with shot, epoxy, two polystryene halves, and wood spar for attachment. So a stand will be useful to hold the boat while building, and will be needed later at the pond for sailing. Build it so the weight of the keel bottom is supported by the stand. The cradle should lightly hold the hull from tipping over. This will prevent the hull being pulled out of shape over time while it is being stored. I found some white plastic lumber to make the stand. Good with water, don't have to paint it, and is easy to work with. It holds a screw better than wood also. To make it easy to use, both ends are the same. It doesn't matter which way the boat sits in it.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 04:16 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

The polystyrene hull can get brittle over time and/or develope cracks from stress. If you look up Soling builds, you can see the many ways builders add strength. I like to use plywood to spread the loads out into the hull. 1/64th bends easy and is strong when epoxied into place. The rest of the build is easy too, as it becomes wood to wood attaching. This boat should be sailing for many years to come.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 04:32 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Rudder post block is now in and starting to add strength around it. I'm adding a screw eye here to anchor the jib and main sail sheets, so I don't want this block poping off. There is no second bulkhead where I end the sheets, as in a 1 meter Soling. Glued the transon in and glued a round poly strip inside to secure it. There is a flange on the transon that doesn't always line up flat on the hull. The poly strip will fill any gaps and make the joint strong.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 07:38 PM
FROM THE MIND OF A MADMAN
gpzy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Apr 2007
3,298 Posts
Sweet, Victor boats are great ! I think they give more bang for the buck than any arts. Thanks for posting your build, great pics !
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:52 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2009
177 Posts
Grate work Benndave, I just finished a VICTOR FOOTY for my little girl. I have built 3 A3 a footy and working on a wildcat soon, I find that you do get more for your money from VICTOR MODEL. The boats are fun to build for a newby like me. Have fun.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 03:30 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

That is one happy looking Skipper with her Footy! You did a great job on the project. I finished the wood inside and added strength where I thought it was needed. With the longer keelbox, the rudder servo and battery can nest in beside it. I'm using a Spektrum A7000 retract servo for the sail winch. 240 oz. in. torque with a four cell pack of 4.8 volt. Just don't program the travel beyond 100% as there is a stop pin that the servo will stall against. We had a boat catch fire when it's servo burnt up because of this. The servo went nuts when the pin broke off and it did another turn, then caught fire. I'm going to try and run the rudder linkage down low so it doesn't catch the sheets.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 10:39 AM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

m.g. and gpzy, I am pleased that you are enjoying this build. I got a little stuck on the radio install, but have got some more done now. I hope to have some pic's soon to put up. I saw you over on Cory's A3 build. It caught my eye as I'm making one too, thanks for the advice to get me started. It is on hold for now until I finish the Mini Soling. My friend just did up a Victor catamaran, I hope he doesn't mind my putting a picture here of it. He does outstanding work and always comes up with something special.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 04:43 PM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benndave View Post
...... I'm going to try and run the rudder linkage down low so it doesn't catch the sheets.
I don't know if this will work for you, but on one of my boats the mainsail sheet runs quite close to the rudder servo and tangled occasionally.

I fitted a piece of clear plastic to separate the sheet from the servo - works great. The plastic is just cut from an old blister pack that something came packed in...

See pic below...
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 08:27 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

Thank-you mrpenguin, that is a good idea, and I use it on my 1M Soling. That plastic is cheap though, and has split and cracked now. I can re-make it, but I was really looking for a way around the problem in this boat. That leads to what I tell the new-comers to modeling RC boats. This is what makes it so interesting, seeing a problem with how something works, deciding what would solve the problem, then designing and making the new workings. 1) rudder horn snags sheets. 2) have rudder horn out of way, run linkage down low. 3) get servo mounted down low and still get push-rod hooked up. None of this stuff is in the model instruction books, and is only learned by experience and by good advice from fellow modelers, such as the good folks here at RCGroups. Seeing something that you made perform flawlessly, run after run at the pond, is very satisfying. It is even better if you are winning races with your brainstorm.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 09:25 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

In a 30" boat, about all I can do is lay the servo on it's side. I could have used a miniature servo, but I have an Attack radio that I don't use. This will put it to use, and leave a spare servo if needed later. For this post I want to try and show how I got to where I was going. Perhaps someone new at it will say, "I can do that", and away they go! How did I know where and what size for the radio board? The answer is I didn't, but I did know some things about it. So make as much as you know, and the rest of the pieces will fall into place. I know the sail-winch will overhang the rear keel brace. The servo wheel should be centered so a double arm setup can be used. It is also raised up to clear the rear keel brass screw and pushrod hole. A couple of rails with 2-56 blind nuts so the radio board can be fastened are glued in. Now the radio board is fixed in place, we can determine where to place the rudder servo. Use a piece of pushrod and a snap keeper to show where the rod will end up. Get everything in line, draw where to cut out the hole, and make the cutout for the servo. Keep checking for interferance and alignment, and before you know it, you've got it!
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 01:15 AM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
Mini Soling 30"

As there seems to be an interest in the wood re-inforcing, I'll give you everything I have on it. I was asked for an article to put in a magazine, but it was never used. Perhaps you will find it of interest. For the wood liner in the Mini Soling, I used just epoxy to glue it in. I used CA and epoxy when I made my Soling 1M. The wood fit needs to be close for CA to work, for this reason my A3 was done with epoxy as there was a large void to fill up between the wood and hull. I would probably make another Soling 1M using epoxy only, having tried it now. But back in the day, this was how I did it.
The polystyrene hull on the Victor Model's Soling 1M can develop cracks over time as the plastic gets more brittle with age. The keel box is of course a high stress area with six pounds swinging below it. There are many ways builders add strength, as the interior of the boat is open to design of the individual, and not subject to the class rules. I did mine using thin plywood around the keel box and model railroad styrene pieces at the rudder.
The problem is that the only thing that styrene bonds to well, is itself, using a melting type glue such as Tenax 7 (MEK). Becoming welded together and strong for sure. Polystyrene is a petroleum based product that has an oilyness to it that defies a good bond with glue on a stick to it basis only. To help we can clean the surface with denatured alcohol and rough up the area to give the glue a better grip. So do we go with the epoxy or CA choice. Epoxy is somewhat flexible, so to me it can flex open it's grip on the rough area's and end up letting go. It would take some force to do, but on a windy day your Soling will be taking a pounding out on the water. Over time it could come free. CA on the other hand is a hard, brittle glue. It won't open it's grip on the rough plastic, but it can break and end up comming free as well. If we give it a large surface area, then I think it will be harder to take apart than the epoxy. In the end I used both types, but the epoxy was more to fill gaps and seal out water.
After gluing the main bulkhead (with plywood insert) and keel box in, I was able to begin with the plywood stiffening. The holes will reduce weight and give access for more glue. After making the plywood bottom, one for port and one for starboard, marking where it would attach, cleaning and roughing the surface, I used thick CA on hull and wood mating surfaces. Quickly bending it into place, I clamped it to set overnight. Next, I wicked in thin CA around the edges and hole cut outs. Again, I let it set overnight. I filled the voids where the wood didn't form completely to the hull shape with slow set epoxy, working from hole to hole. This also sealed all the holes from letting water in under the wood base. Of note, there are two screws through the front of the main bulkhead into the keel box. Now it gets easy as any further building is a wood to wood epoxy glue joint, and will result in a good bond. Next, glue in the rear radio support and plywood gussets that transfer forces to the wood liner. With pine stringers I boxed in the joints where the keel box meets the gussets, main bulkhead, and bottom plywood. At the front (not shown), running fore and aft, two pieces the same thickness as the cross piece at the rear were glued in between the main bulkhead and gussets. Add four 2-56 blind nuts front and back,and you have a solid mount for the radio board with it's torquing sail winch. I had to put a hat on the rudder servo to keep the sheets from fouling the arm. This set up centers the weight in the boat and stiffens the hull all the way up to the deck joint.
For the rudder I used a plywood gusset in front and back of the rudder tube block. One quarter inch styrene square tube forms a cross brace with a brass tube bushing, glued to styrene backing plates on the hull. Place the deck on to make sure the width is right. The time of gluing the deck on is not when to find out the boat is too wide or narrow.
To be able to add the rudder cross brace I raised the brass rod in the rudder halves up higher. A brass piece soldered on the rudder post returned stiffness to the lower part again. Next time I would drill holes in the brass blade to take some weight out of it.
To finish off the keel and rudder fabrication, there were a couple of things I did to the keel itself. The bolt in the keel spar has a tapered or counter sunk head. If over tightened this acts like a wedge, eventually splitting the wood apart. I loc-tited the screw through a tapped aluminum block. The block, being square, gives a straight up pull on the wood spar without the wedging action. Cut a rectangle in the keel spar to fit in the T handle. Also some circular notches were cut to let the epoxy get a good grip on the spar when filling the keel with a lead shot/epoxy mix.
The Soling 1M is an all-around great boat to own. It is easy to launch, fits fully rigged into most cars where the back seat folds down, but is big enough to sail well in a wide variety of wind conditions. If you do have to take down the rig for transport, the mast jack system makes this an easy chore.
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 11:08 AM
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marter1229's Avatar
United States, ID, CDA
Joined Aug 2005
622 Posts
Very clean radio installation. I like it.

Terry
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 07:07 PM
benndave
Ontario, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
82 Posts
America3 Radio

Thanks marter1229 . This is another one that I'm working on, I hope to finish it after the Mini S.
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