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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post

At some point in time you might like to reduce some friction in your rigging lines by replacing the turnaround hooks in the stern with some good pulleys etc.
Thanks for your advice, and you too, mrpenguin.

I would like to put some pulleys back there, but will probably call them blocks. Who sells tiny blocks?
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:08 PM
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Ontario Canada
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Originally Posted by Tom Ray View Post
Thanks for your advice, and you too, mrpenguin.

I would like to put some pulleys back there, but will probably call them blocks. Who sells tiny blocks?
Sailsetc.com
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:29 AM
Yosef Sailor
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Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
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Long Beach RC and Harken Miniature are both places to find these along with any IOM supplier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Ray View Post
Thanks for your advice, and you too, mrpenguin.

I would like to put some pulleys back there, but will probably call them blocks. Who sells tiny blocks?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:42 AM
FROM THE MIND OF A MADMAN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Ray View Post
Thanks for your advice, and you too, mrpenguin.

I would like to put some pulleys back there, but will probably call them blocks. Who sells tiny blocks?
Brighton Boat Works
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Ray View Post
.....I would like to put some pulleys back there, but will probably call them blocks. Who sells tiny blocks?
Have a look at these - I have used them, good for smaller boats, cheap as chips. Currently using one as the main winch loop turnaround on an 800mm boat, no dramas, works great....

https://www.radioyachtsuppliesaustra...252d2418..html
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 10:17 AM
Boomer1
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United States, CA, Temecula
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Nice Fairwind for sale on E-bay

Just an FYI there is a very clean Fairwind 900 for sale on E-bay - looks like new. If interested check it out at this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYOSHO-FAIRW...item1e760e29fa

Asking price seems fair for the condition of the boat. The boat is located in Concord, California - so anyone interested up in the Bay area could drive over to Concord. $250 seems a pretty attractive price - just sayin...................

Boomer
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Last edited by Boomer1; Jan 08, 2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post
...
BTW, the new receivers are about the size of large postage stamp, not the huge thing you show in your pictures.
Also the 2.4 GHz radios are bulletproof. (not waterproof, interference free)
Electronics has come a long way since you bought that boat.

mrpenguin is right on about the batteries, I use those too, they're great!
I would chuck the battery box, they are cheap to replace, and get a new switch harness with a charging jack built in. Very convenient at at charging time. Total cost about $6.00 at HK....

At some point in time you might like to reduce some friction in your rigging lines by replacing the turnaround hooks in the stern with some good pulleys etc.

...
I'm also in favour of (very strong), magnets to hold the hatch on instead of having to use a screwdriver or wrench to remove the hatch. That's a pita!
Well, the gutting process was rather messy, but here is the result:



A few questions:

1. The power switch on the boat. I started to unscrew one screw and the switch just fell inside the boat after about half a turn. It appears that the plastic/rubber deck plate is screwed on with wood screws and those were just screwed right into the actual switch. Is that normal? Only the tips of those wood screws stick out on the underside. Does not seem particularly secure to me, though it never failed. The screw holes on the switch look like they are threaded for machine screws, which would make more sense to me.

How should I go about reattaching that?

The switch shows some rust, confirming my suspicion that the plastic/rubber deck plate was not exactly watertight, but the rubber part appears to be OK. Should I continue using it?

2. There was a two-wire lead with an unused plug coming off the switch, which I never noticed before. I assume it is/was a charging lead? I always just used disposable batteries. That meant I had to pull the battery box free of the double-sided tape each time I changed them. Is the purpose of the charging lead to avoid doing that?

3. I don't mind having to unscrew the deck hatch screws each time I sail, but would like to put some kind of gasket around the hatch, as that is where I think most water got in. What should I use?

4. I disconnected the rudder servo arm from the rudder servo because that was the only way I could figure out to get it free. I then tried to remove the plastic arm from the metal push rod that goes back to the rudder, but it does not want to come off. Should I just pull harder, or leave it in place and connect it to the new servo? How does that plastic arm come off anyway?

5. I also disconnected the metal sail servo arm from the sail servo, again because this seemed easiest. I am still unsure which brand(s) of servo would fit this arm, but have decided to go ahead and replace the servos. I just have no idea which ones would work.

6. The box containing the sail servo disintegrated when I tried to pull the servo. The double-sided sticky tape was stronger than the box. I thought I was going to crack the hull getting the rudder servo free, and the receiver came off in pieces. I'm not a huge fan of sticky tape as a result. Is there some better way to attach this stuff so that I can get it free if the need arises without doing damage?

7. I looked up the specs on the old sail servo and it has something like 10-12 kg of torque. I found that the sails overpowered it and it could not pull them in when sailing in strong winds. Am I right in assuming that this means I need one with at least 12 kg of torque for that application? The specs on potential replacements are confusing to me, but most seem to move through a 60 degree arc considerably faster than my old one. That would be nice at times, but would make fine tuning of the sails more difficult since it would move so much faster. Is there one on the market that will fit my old metal arm, has sufficient torque, and moves at the speed of the old one? I want to put it back like it was. I liked it that way!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post
...
I like the look and specs of this radio system $28.41: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...x_Mode_2_.html

This one will do the job too, it needs an extra cable to program it from your computer $23.00:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2_Mode_2_.html

...
I used the little 4 cell plug into the wall camera battery chargers for years, they'll do the job if you don't want to get into multi purpose chargers just now.
They usually come with 4 NIMH AA cells, sold for cameras etc.
Try to get at least 2200 mah batteries with them.
They work OK, just don't hold their charge practically forever like the HK LSD AA batteries do.
...
Program the transmitter through a computer? Do they both do this, but one does it wirelessly and one requires a cable? Is software required? By "computer cable" do they mean a flavor of USB? If so, which one? By PC, do they mean Macs too? Do the answers to these questions have anything to do with the response speed concern in my question 7 above? If not, what do you program, exactly? I never programmed the old one so have no idea why one would want to program a transmitter.

I have a little camera battery charger, but I have a feeling we are not talking about the same thing. Mine did not come with any batteries and has no wires that could connect to a charging jack. It fits a variety of camera batteries, but does not have any way to charge AAs.

What kind of charger do you mean, exactly?

Sorry for all the questions. Still trying to figure out what I should buy and how to put it all back together here and each answer seems to just raise more questions. It's a hazard of extreme cluelessness. Speaking of which, what is IMO anyway, besides an acronym for In My Opinion?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:43 PM
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@Tom Ray

Looks like you ARE having fun.

I suggest you go shopping online at hobbyking.com.... The shopping list might look like this:

Boat battery pack
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...iver_Pack.html

Transmitter & receiver (select either mode 1 or mode 2 - your preference...)
Mode 1 (rudder on left, sails on right)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2_Mode_1_.html
or Mode 2 (rudder on right, sails on left)http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2_Mode_2_.html
These both include a receiver. No computer needed to program it.

Batteries for transmitter - you need 8 x AA - these are great:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_to_use_.html

Switch assembly
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...em_Switch.html

Charger
I use the Accucel6 - however this needs a 12 volt power supply (you can charge from a cigar lighter etc) - will charge a range of batteries
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html

I am using ALL the above products and am happy with their performance

Re the servos - HK has a VAST range of servos - choose some the same physical size I would suggest. One of the other forum members may be able to suggest some particular servos for this boat.

These links are all to items in the HK internatonal store - you may also be able to get them from a hobbyking store nearer to you and reduce the freight.

Hope this helps...
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:14 PM
Rusty
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Auckland, New Zealand
Joined Feb 2006
916 Posts
The advantage of the programmable CT6A transmitter shown above is twofold:
* You can increase the sail servo throw by 20%. This means a shorter arm can be used, increasing the torque. There are other ways of doing that, but this is the simplest.
* With the optional 3ch (comes with 6ch) receiver, you can set a failsafe so that the boom is released on signal loss.
Additionally mixes are possible that will make flying aircraft and helicopters easier.
This is not on your horizon at the moment but the features come at no extra cost (over bog standard 4 ch) and make resale easier.
To make these changes to the transmitter you need to connect with a USB cable (optional extra from HK) to your computer and download a small program. The model parameters are set up and saved to the transmitter and to a file on your computer. You can have many models saved on the computer and load the one you need to the transmitter. It is possible to use the transmitter out of the box as any simple set without connecting to a computer for a simple model. Setting up the computer to talk to the transmitter is easy if you follow the guidelines on the forum for this transmitter in the radio forum section, but if you are computer challenged this is a consideration.
Some sophisticated transmitters like the new Turnigy 9XR do not need a computer link to program (but can) as it has an integral screen and programming buttons. These can control the servo speed to and do any mixing task you can conceive at very low price. For a simple yacht, choosing a sail servo that has a slow speed is best as speed is not important but torque is and the slower highly geared servo will have the higher torque. See the link to the cheaper suitable servos in my post above.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:21 PM
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Mr. P,

That is a huge help!

My old transmitter had sails on the left control so I want to continue with that setup.

My old switch had no indicator light and I like the idea of having one but if installed in the previous location it will certainly be submerged when (not if) I get blown down by a gust. I'm concerned that the light may leak and the sliding switch with no rubber cover probably would too. Is that a plug jack at the other end from the light bulb? If so, how would it react to being dunked?

Can that charger simultaneously charge the transmitter batteries and the boat battery pack? Is there a version that does not require a 12 volt supply? Or can you recommend a good 12 volt supply?

Thanks for the suggestions!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the explanation, Rusty Nail!
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Ray View Post
Mr. P,

That is a huge help!

My old transmitter had sails on the left control so I want to continue with that setup.

My old switch had no indicator light and I like the idea of having one but if installed in the previous location it will certainly be submerged when (not if) I get blown down by a gust. I'm concerned that the light may leak and the sliding switch with no rubber cover probably would too. Is that a plug jack at the other end from the light bulb? If so, how would it react to being dunked?

Can that charger simultaneously charge the transmitter batteries and the boat battery pack? Is there a version that does not require a 12 volt supply? Or can you recommend a good 12 volt supply?

Thanks for the suggestions!
Sails on the left = Mode 2

Re the charger - there are a few mains powered chargers around, could not see one on the Hk site at the moment. If you go for a 12 volt charger, you can add a cigar lighter adapter and charge from a car if you want. This charger also does Lipos and a range of other batteries, they are very vesatile...

Power supply to suit charger:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_Supply.html

Or a bigger power supply if planning more than one charger:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Chargers.html

You can only charge one battery at a time. After a day's sailing (6 or 7 hours) the charge time for the boat battery is about 20 minutes, (I charge them at 2 amps) similar charge time for the transmitter, so charge times are not long....

Also, add a charging harness - ths covers most of the common connectors:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_harness.html

For a switch, my personal preference is to use a Dubro 203 switch bracket with a simple slide switch - they are available all over the place - like this:
http://www.duanesplanes.com.au/product.php?productid=66
No waterproofing issues as the switch is inside the boat, the bracket mounts through a 5mm hole. Place it where the sheets will not snag on it...

I use silicone sealant for any areas that look like leaking...
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Last edited by mrpenguin; Jan 09, 2013 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Corrected typos
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 07:00 PM
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I broke out the calipers tonight to measure the servos for replacement. I used the image on Hobby King to figure out where to measure for each dimension and here is what I came up with for the Futaba FP-S125 sail servo and the JR Servo NES-507 rudder servo:



In the background of the image below my note is the Hobby King page for the Hitec HS-7985MG Coreless Digital Servo, which looks like it might be an adequate replacement for the sail servo. It is smaller in every dimension but that just means I might have to shim it a bit to use the old box, or put it back a bit smaller. Shims seem easier.

People in the comments section were talking about using it for sails and it has the same torque as the old one but faster travel.The specs say that speed of rotation can be programmed to be slower, so that means I can slow it down until I like it, right?

I took pictures of the drive and arm of each servo. The sail servo has a square drive peg and it looks like 8 possible positions for the white plastic piece that slips over it and holds the metal arm.



The rudder servo has a round gear on top.

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Old Jan 09, 2013, 07:20 PM
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Thanks again for helping in my shopping, Mr. P.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 10:07 PM
Rusty
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Auckland, New Zealand
Joined Feb 2006
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Digital is not necessary for a sail servo. Noted for high precision and battery consumption. Programming requires a separate purchase and together with servo represents a very expensive (and out of stock) option compared to the many available for around $10!
HK have carbon large servo arms that can be screwed to the servo horn, or better, make a simple Stollery Power Lever to maximize torque in a logical fashion.
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Last edited by Rusty Nail; Jan 09, 2013 at 10:14 PM.
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