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Old Jan 03, 2013, 09:03 AM
Still showing up for breakfast
lilleyen's Avatar
Ontario Canada
Joined Mar 2009
1,100 Posts
Tom Ray, good luck with your project.
There are no dumb questions, remember that.

I have a question that maybe someone can answer.
It's about the hooks that attach the shrouds.
I don't like the snap closed fishing type of hooks that seem to be standard on so many RC sailboats. Too hard to undo without pliers, breaks all my thumbnails etc.
The Nirvana sailboat uses an open style hook that seems to do the job very well.
(Wish I had a bunch of those.)

I want to duplicate these hooks using the very stiff stainless steel "memory wire" that is sold by Michael's craft stores in their jewellery department for making bracelets etc. Michaels is a great place to browse if you are into model ships of any kind. (Never mind the looks from the ladies)

I have the special pliers and wire bending jigs required to do this.
It involves making a loop and wrapping the loop twice for reinforcement, and then forming the actual hook, sort of open with the end bent outwards for easy mounting and dismounting of the wire shrouds.
My question is:
Has anyone tried this before and is that wire strong enough to do the job?
I know I can get stronger wires or thin rods elsewhere that will do the job, but they aren't stainless steel.
I like the stainless wire as it won't rust.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 12:08 PM
Boomer1
Boomer1's Avatar
United States, CA, Temecula
Joined Sep 2009
3,536 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post
Tom Ray, good luck with your project.
There are no dumb questions, remember that.

I have a question that maybe someone can answer.
It's about the hooks that attach the shrouds.
I don't like the snap closed fishing type of hooks that seem to be standard on so many RC sailboats. Too hard to undo without pliers, breaks all my thumbnails etc.
The Nirvana sailboat uses an open style hook that seems to do the job very well.
(Wish I had a bunch of those.)

I want to duplicate these hooks using the very stiff stainless steel "memory wire" that is sold by Michael's craft stores in their jewellery department for making bracelets etc. Michaels is a great place to browse if you are into model ships of any kind. (Never mind the looks from the ladies)

I have the special pliers and wire bending jigs required to do this.
It involves making a loop and wrapping the loop twice for reinforcement, and then forming the actual hook, sort of open with the end bent outwards for easy mounting and dismounting of the wire shrouds.
My question is:
Has anyone tried this before and is that wire strong enough to do the job?
I know I can get stronger wires or thin rods elsewhere that will do the job, but they aren't stainless steel.
I like the stainless wire as it won't rust.

The turnbuckle you installed on your boat doesn't permit you an easy on off method - I think you are familiar with the rigging screws I incorporated on my Nirvana, Yamaha and really all of my other boats. If not I posted some pictures to illustrate the choice I made. These particular rigging screws are not expensive and permit you to have a "quick disconnect" set up and make it very simple to tune your sails.
There are a number of similar mechanical set ups you can use - all are on the Nirvana thread and on the Yamaha build thread.
Just a thought
Boomer
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Last edited by Boomer1; Jan 03, 2013 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 03:35 PM
Registered User
United States, PA, Doylestown
Joined May 2011
37 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chalupadrop View Post
I have reviewed all of the economical radio systems and opted for the FlySky T6 as recommended here recently. Will be nice to have a 2.4Ghz radio for the new Fairwind.

BTW, I cant help but admire the craftsmanship of the Fairwind III. Have never had a sailboat before, so I will be anxiously awaiting some springtime weather to get out to the lake nearby.

The steel ballast that came with the kit weighs 3.84 lbs. Before I add the lead ballast, does this seem like a logical initial ballast weight to start with? The boat itself weighs 4.90 lbs with the four AA batteries.Thus the total weight would be 8.74 lbs
Some progress.
I found some #9 lead shot (had to get 25lbs min) and have installed 1.7Kg. I used 4 oz of wood glue placed evenly with a squeeze bottle. One it had dried thoroughly to secure the shot and form a top crust, I placed another thin layer of glue to even the top layer out.
I ordered the FlySky FS-T6 transmitter and several 3 channel and several 6 channel receivers from HobbyKing. Also got 2300 mAh NiMh batteries to use in the battery holder along with a new 3 lead switch that includes the charging jack. I can now charge the batteries without removing the battery box covers.
The receiver was easy to bind to the transmitter and servos are working correctly.
Now just have to wait for some warmer weather to try things out!
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 05:01 PM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
536 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post
...I have a question that maybe someone can answer. It's about the hooks that attach the shrouds..
I have seen people use a clevis to attach the shroud - a bit fiddly but not too bad.

With just the hooks, I would be concerned they may wash out of the chain plate hole when the rig comes under pressure and the shrouds stretch. Would not be an issue on a ltlle boat but once you get a bit bigger.....
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 06:51 PM
Yosef Sailor
dwatson's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
514 Posts
Lil,

As Boomer has mentioned in many of his postings. The use of Rigging screws makes life very easy when removing a rig or adjusting. I also use 7 strand or braided/coated line. Does not stretch and is very easy to use. The 7 strand is available at most fishing tackle supply stores or most places that supply IOM parts have it available as well. Unlike the wire, the 7 strand is more easier to work with and is much more flexible than the other wire.

I am preparation stages of building a Micro Magic and in doing so, I have taken 2-56 clevis and incorporated a split washer, swivel and a few other pieces I had in my tool box. I didn't have any rigging screws left after my Seawind and IOM build to spare and had a lot of parts in my tool box so I gave it whirl. I will post photos when I get home.

Anyway you go, make sure it works for you. I will most likly not be removing the rig on my Micro Magic as it is small boat and easy to tranport.

Talk again soon.
David

Quote:
Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post
Tom Ray, good luck with your project.
There are no dumb questions, remember that.

I have a question that maybe someone can answer.
It's about the hooks that attach the shrouds.
I don't like the snap closed fishing type of hooks that seem to be standard on so many RC sailboats. Too hard to undo without pliers, breaks all my thumbnails etc.
The Nirvana sailboat uses an open style hook that seems to do the job very well.
(Wish I had a bunch of those.)

I want to duplicate these hooks using the very stiff stainless steel "memory wire" that is sold by Michael's craft stores in their jewellery department for making bracelets etc. Michaels is a great place to browse if you are into model ships of any kind. (Never mind the looks from the ladies)

I have the special pliers and wire bending jigs required to do this.
It involves making a loop and wrapping the loop twice for reinforcement, and then forming the actual hook, sort of open with the end bent outwards for easy mounting and dismounting of the wire shrouds.
My question is:
Has anyone tried this before and is that wire strong enough to do the job?
I know I can get stronger wires or thin rods elsewhere that will do the job, but they aren't stainless steel.
I like the stainless wire as it won't rust.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 07:21 PM
Registered User
Evansville, IN
Joined Jul 2002
301 Posts
+1 on the "30-030 SS rigging screws" Boomer posted. Use them on my Nirvana and they work great. Not expensive and good shipping from their supplier.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 08:41 PM
Lipo Power
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Joined May 2009
301 Posts
Same here....
I like them....
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 09:07 PM
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Evansville, IN
Joined Jul 2002
301 Posts
Bought some more recently in case I build something in the near future. Never know whether they will be available or not 6 months or a year from now.

Just what I needed, more hobby stuff to find a place for in the hobby room.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 09:38 PM
Still showing up for breakfast
lilleyen's Avatar
Ontario Canada
Joined Mar 2009
1,100 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer1 View Post
The turnbuckle you installed on your boat doesn't permit you an easy on off method - I think you are familiar with the rigging screws I incorporated on my Nirvana, Yamaha and really all of my other boats. If not I posted some pictures to illustrate the choice I made. These particular rigging screws are not expensive and permit you to have a "quick disconnect" set up and make it very simple to tune your sails.
There are a number of similar mechanical set ups you can use - all are on the Nirvana thread and on the Yamaha build thread.
Just a thought
Boomer
Thanks Booomer, I think you all have me convinced.
Probably going to order some shortly.
That hook on the rear stay looks like it would be a bit hard to slip off, the way it wraps around the fitting..
Do you just unscrew the rigging screw and leave the hook on there?
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 10:53 PM
Boomer1
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United States, CA, Temecula
Joined Sep 2009
3,536 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilleyen View Post
Thanks Booomer, I think you all have me convinced.
Probably going to order some shortly.
That hook on the rear stay looks like it would be a bit hard to slip off, the way it wraps around the fitting..
Do you just unscrew the rigging screw and leave the hook on there?
Rick
That is correct. I take care in trimming the length and in bending the ends of the rigging screws so they won't fall off the boat, but if I feel the need, I can still remove it. There really is no need to ever take it off. Just unscrew the top part and you are good to go!
I have ordered extra nuts and have added an extra nut to act as a "lock nut" to make sure I get the same adjustment each time. It also prevents you from loosing the nut when it is not connected. Those little buggers have a way of falling off if you are not careful.
I am so sure you'll like them, if you don't like um, I buy them from you! How's that for confidence!
I keep a supply of them in my hobby kit - right now I am putting them on my Fairwind and my V 32 so I will be re-ordering some for stock next week.
Once you get them installed be sure to posts some pictures for us.
Boomer
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 06:15 AM
Yosef Sailor
dwatson's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
514 Posts
Here are a few examples.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 06:54 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
30 Posts
I took the boat out of the shed last night and put the rig back on it on the dining table. I doubt this will be tolerated for long.



Here are the innards:



And the stern interior:

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Old Jan 05, 2013, 09:15 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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A few more pictures that show exactly what I have now. First the old transmitter, which got damaged by exploding batteries. It transmits no more.



And the old receiver, which has been wet more than once and might or might not receive.



The rudder servo, which was last known to be working. Would this just plug right into a new receiver if it still works?



And the sail servo, also last known to be working. Same question: would it make sense to try to keep using these servos, or should they go too?



The battery box has corrosion on wire terminals and I want to replace it.

The deck switch leaks and needs to go too.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 05:18 PM
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Australia, TAS, Penguin
Joined Mar 2012
536 Posts
@Tom Ray:
If it were mine, I would be replacing all the electronics.

From what you describe it has clearly been wet inside - if you sail in a small pond where recovery is not an issue then go with the suspect servos, otherwise replace them.

I am thinking that you could get a TX/RX combination plus the two servos from HobbyKing for under $50 (plus freight) the lot.....

You did not mention batteries - however - for batteries, my preference is the Turnigy LSD NiMh, also from Hobbyking - 8 x AA for the transmitter and a 5 pack AA for the boat. (About $20 all up plus freight)
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 07:59 AM
Still showing up for breakfast
lilleyen's Avatar
Ontario Canada
Joined Mar 2009
1,100 Posts
Tom Ray, the servos will work with a new radio system.

Having said that, I would open the cases and check for rust damage etc.

I would give some serious thought to how things got wet, and put a stop to that.
Better seal on the hatch, whatever.

You can clean things up inside with a spray-on contact cleaner and a toothbrush etc., then coat everything with a rust proofer like Corrosion X or something like that. Then close it up again.
I would then seal the case joints and around the wire entry points with silicone or something similar.
If your servos need replacing, you will know soon enough. If not, make do.

The transmitter and receiver have to go though.

BTW, the new receivers are about the size of large postage stamp, not the huge thing you show in your pictures.
Also the 2.4 GHz radios are bulletproof. (not waterproof, interference free)
Electronics has come a long way since you bought that boat.

mrpenguin is right on about the batteries, I use those too, they're great!
I would chuck the battery box, they are cheap to replace, and get a new switch harness with a charging jack built in. Very convenient at at charging time. Total cost about $6.00 at HK.
Again coat everything that is metal, including the plugs, switches, battery box contacts, battery ends etc, with a rust proofing liquid, before closing up your radio box. Then open the box up a few times per season or at the end of the season and check for rust or any other problems.
An hour of maintenance once a year can save you some grief and money.

At some point in time you might like to reduce some friction in your rigging lines by replacing the turnaround hooks in the stern with some good pulleys etc.
This will allow your boom to swing freely across the decks even in very light winds. A big help when coming about. A bit of silicone lube on your boom hinge will help too. Nothing that will gum up like grease.

I'm also in favour of (very strong), magnets to hold the hatch on instead of having to use a screwdriver or wrench to remove the hatch. That's a pita!

There are always little tweaks you can dream up to make it "better" but you can work on those after you get the basics done.
Right now concentrate on the radio system, since that is your boats "engine" so to speak.
Without the radio, your boat is just a very ornamental mantel place decoration. (Tell your wife keeping it out of site, in the shed, is a sin)
Probably the dining room table is out!
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