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Old Dec 01, 2012, 03:05 PM
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United States, PA, New Tripoli
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Build Log
Unionville 6' Beaver

Hi all.

I am building a Unionville Beaver (6') kit inherited from a friend's son who had started it and completed about 10% of the build before tragically passing away a little over two years ago. In the kit were pictures of Harrison Ford's Beaver, N28S. I can only assume that he intended to use the same color scheme for this project. In his honor, I plan to do the same. I have the wings 90% completed and I am ready resume building the fuselage where my friend's son left off. He partially completed one side of the fuselage frame, so I have a lot of work left to go.

I have plenty of yellow covering and gray covering (I think it's Ultracote or Monokote) to match; however, I am having a hard time finding a dark green and light green that come close to matching the greens in the attached photos. Does anyone know where I can get covering that approximates the greens in these pix. I am trying to do a nice job on this, so your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 08:32 PM
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Yay! I found a match for the dark green (at least close enough for the girls I go with) at http://www.skywardhobbies.com

It's their "Grass Green" iron heat shrink film listed here:
http://skywardhobbies.com/Covering-G...cov-104-01.htm

I ordered a roll and it arrived today. Looks like it will do the trick.

Still meaning to post some pix of the progress soon.

Tom
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 11:08 PM
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With only a little finishing sanding and filling left to do, the wingtips look sort of like wingtips, (sigh of relief)... By the way, this is my first set of carved tips ;-)

Other builders, do you see any major flaws that will prevent these from covering well? I am concerned how the gap between the leading and trailing edge sections will come out. What do you think? Thanks ;-)
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 02:20 AM
Art Schmitz
United States, TN, Crossville
Joined Jan 2012
392 Posts
Tom, I added wood between on the top of the tips for better looks.
(Mine used the OS .50 SX on floats and had a remote needle valve and Fowler type flaps)
art
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindart View Post
Tom, I added wood between on the top of the tips for better looks.
(Mine used the OS .50 SX on floats and had a remote needle valve and Fowler type flaps)
art
Art, did you completely fill the area between on the top? I was thinking of adding like an 1/8" to thicken the tip. Thanks, Tom
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 11:14 AM
Art Schmitz
United States, TN, Crossville
Joined Jan 2012
392 Posts
I just thickened the actual edge of the tips 1/4" in and used Oracover which worked out nicely.
I also added diagonals to the fuselage frame just behind the wing bay.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindart View Post
I just thickened the actual edge of the tips 1/4" in and used Oracover which worked out nicely.
I also added diagonals to the fuselage frame just behind the wing bay.
Perfect, thanks
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 08:56 PM
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Still slow going. Had a setback with the wing - something did not seem right to me about the waviness of the upper trailing edge. After discussing it with Unionville, I found out that I had incorrectly finished the upper trailing edges of the ribs (did not sand them flush with the aft 1/4 x 1/4 TEs), so I had to remove the upper rib-caps, the upper trailing edge 1/16" x 3/8" strips to redo it all. The wing is pretty much ready for cover and controls now, but I am holding off till the fuselage is built so I can fit everything first. I have finished the LH fuselage frame and have have fitted the landing gear block and the bottom block, "A". Hopefully in the next week or two, I'll have time make some real progress on the fuse. I am picking up a fuselage jig this week so I can hopefully build it straight.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:18 AM
Art Schmitz
United States, TN, Crossville
Joined Jan 2012
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Tom, best to plan your servo and pushrod layout early on to have them as far forward as possible.
I used 1/16 M.W. with 1" inner nyrod sections as fairleads spaced every 6 to 7 inches.
The O.S.remote needle valve was mounted on the bottom of the firewall. A Robart fueling system was mounted on its own bracket located on the upper left of the firewall. This allowed easy fueling and removal of cowl.
A Pitts type muffler was used to keep the slop low.
art
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:28 AM
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Good point and thanks, Art. This bird will be electric and the jury is still out whether to go with 4S or 3S. MotoCalc shows a couple of different options for both. Other threads and users have provided some good ideas. The fuse is wide enough that I think I can make a side fuselage hatch and mount the battery sideways.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 02:29 PM
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Finally got to do some work on this project over the last week. Here are some pix from the fuselage assembly. I picked up a brand new R/C Gator fuselage jig from a guy on eBay. The jig had the jumbo uprights, but I have since cut three of them down so that I can proceed with the wing mounting. I am already convinced that a jig is a good thing to have for building; I could never get this assembly as straight as I did without it. I am using the seldom used Ryobi laser level I got for Father's day a few years ago to keep everything "on the beam" -- something I learned from perusing R/C Groups. It's even starting to look like an airplane.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:17 PM
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Quick update: I have completed lots of little fuselage detail. Firewall, wing mounts, rudder/elevator servo rails, and forward windshield/cowling frames are installed. I even installed the optional aft float fittings in case I ever want to try it on floats. I have carefully aligned the wing, located/drilled the aft mount holes, and am I almost ready to drill the holes for the forward wing dowels; I am just trying to figure out the best way project the center of the leading edge to the frame it butts up against. Any suggestions? I also contacted Callie-Graphics, and they are making me a set of 1/8-scale n-numbers and De Havilland logos for the tail along with a memorial sticker for the original builder. New pix to follow soon ;-)
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