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Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:47 AM
F1B is ok.
Monheim am Rhein Germany
Joined Jul 2008
472 Posts
KSB and comparable timer.

Important! The timer disc must be moved one-quarter turn counterclockwise. Otherwise it may happen that the timer stops just before the trigger thermal brake, because the spring force is no longer sufficient. (See picture in # 13)

Heinz
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 11:40 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
My timer appears to release every time but I can see the sense of moving the wheel, how do you do that? Is it held by the centre nut?

No progress as I have been working and today I had a day off to visit a glider market.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 12:01 PM
SB-28 UK Display Pilot
GeeW's Avatar
ENGLAND
Joined Jul 2001
2,427 Posts
So what did you buy at the glider market?
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 12:32 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
Errrmmm...! Another Hi-Phase (you can't have too many!) and a Multiplex Dart.

Quite difficult to walk round and keep my hands in my pockets!
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 01:26 PM
F1B is ok.
Monheim am Rhein Germany
Joined Jul 2008
472 Posts
Loose the nut, remove the disk, put a quarter turn it back. Picture 1 original, Picture 2 is rotated disc.

Heinz
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:36 PM
Registered User
Ajax, Ontario, Canada
Joined Oct 2004
2,543 Posts
Place the disk on the spindle, wind it back, Remove and repeat until the spring is fully wound. Replace the disk in the position that allows most time and tighten down the locknut. Never any danger of the unit now running out of puff before it releases the d/t line
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 05:36 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
Thanks guys, from what I can see the centre shaft is square, that was the mystery.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:16 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
To round or not to round?!!

A tiny detail but I've been wondering about something!

The plan shows no rounding of the fuselage corners and it doesn't seem to be mentioned in the instructions either.

The picture on the box lid does seem to show rounded corners, can't see that it would affect it much structurally so I think I will go for it!
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:31 AM
F1B is ok.
Monheim am Rhein Germany
Joined Jul 2008
472 Posts
In the rear area I would rounding very few, more on the nose.

Heinz
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:55 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
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Thanks Heinz, that's what I did, just some gentle rounding.

Today I assembled the fin and rudder, fitted the towhook and attempted to make the paper wing joiner tubes, this did not go well!

Hacker suggest using rectangles of the supplied tissue paper to make tubes (wound and glued around the wing joiner wires), the tissue bunched up, creased and generally didn't want to play!! I'll try using some A4 standard computer printer paper but I think a nicer solution would be to use thin-walled aluminium tube.

It looks like the wings are built first then the tubes are fitted using the wires through the fuselage for alignment so I can carry on. I'm not sure what is supposed to hold the wings on, possibly just friction from the paper tubes, there is a root rib on each side of the fuselage so a thin strip of tape could be used.

GB
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:48 AM
F1B is ok.
Monheim am Rhein Germany
Joined Jul 2008
472 Posts
I think the paper tubes are prevents that the wing joiner glue on the epoxy.
Observed in the preparation of the paper tube to the "machine direction" of the paper. (See picture)
By the way, you are a quick builder.

Heinz
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:11 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
Well, things are slowing down!

I tried rolling tubes from the tissue with the grain in various directions, didn't seem to make any difference although I did make one neat one!

I would like to use aluminium tube instead. I read the instructions again, even though the translation is bad the method of fitting the tubes is not for me, Hacker say to build the wings then drill the tube holes through all of the root ribs, can't see this working so I will probably drill through the root ribs as a sandwich pack using the laser cut ones as a guide.

Will make more sense with photos!

GB
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 08:49 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
Plodding along!

I am finding the inner wing panel build a little tricky but it's getting there.

I binned the paper tube idea and rummaged around in the shed until I found a combination of tube and wire that would work. I replaced the metric main wing joiner (3 mm) with a 10 SWG part (3.2 mm) which then allowed me to use matching aluminium tube with an outside diameter of 4 mm.

I used the original incidence pin wire (2 mm) but with a brass tube.

I assembled all the ribs needed for one panel into a sandwich pack as they differed in section and size, sanded all the same and adjusted the spar slots.

Laying a root rib over the first rib seemed to show that the joiner holes did not line up, I eventually worked out that the rib noses were too long, trimming them as a pack brought the joiner holes into their correct position.

The spruce main spars are widened at the root by tapered extension pieces which are provided pre-cut.

I did drill the tube holes in the root ribs but this was quite tricky and the ribs broke in half (I expected that they would!!) but it's not a problem to fit them in two pieces.

Next job will be to box in the main tube with spruce webs, add webs between the other ribs then add the upper main spar.

Not used to working with such small glider wings but it's going well if a bit slow!!

Cheers

Gary
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:22 PM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
Slow but steady progress!

The main tube has been boxed in with spruce, 5 mm wide strip is provided but it needs to be reduced to nearer 4 mm, this would be slow going without a disc sander.

The remaining rib bays are webbed using 5 mm balsa strip, has to be reduced the same but is much easier!

The outer rib is angled inboard 7 degrees for dihedral, a template is provided on the plan. I was going to add this rib in two halves as it needs a gap for the dihedral brace but I'm adding it in one piece and will add a slot as Hacker suggest. Just the upper spar to add now.

GB
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 03:10 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
1,789 Posts
Had a minor brainwave with the dihedral brace slot, just razor sawed it out before adding the upper spar once the rib had set.

The upper spar was added with epoxy at the tube area and wood glue for the rest.

Lifted the panel from the building board and added the incidence pin tube, luckily it all seems to line up with the fuselage holes, happy days!

Both the leading and trailing edges are too 'fat', will need some sanding.

GB
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