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Old Jan 01, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RickEis View Post
Dennis,

Yes - you remembered correctly , pin PPM = pin 8 on Nano -

Rebuilt Nano connections to make additions easier (see picts)

I seem to remember reading about an issue with I2c connecting 5V Nano, 3V sensors or something?

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745

http://store.diydrones.com/I2C_SMBus...br-0009-01.htm

Attached another connection diagrams to see what it all looks like -
Used to bring Nano 5V ground to 12V AV camera and transmitter - thinking maybe that creates a ground loop and maybe sending 12V through Nano? So in this diagram I brought 12V ground and power to AV equipment ...make sense?
Thinking about adding another filter on the 12 V side near AV as in the diagram.
Is that what those two big caps are in post 327?

Rick
Looks good, and pretty clean .

If you use the cheap sensors from Ebay, I would personally just ignore level-shift. Chances are they will handle the 5-volt signal just fine. In worst case, you loose a 5-10$ sensor, but I doubt it will be a problem. Off course, if the sensors was used for stabilization on a multirotor or similar, it would be important.

Your ground-connection..
You only need 1 ground-connection. You can just ignore the ground-connection on the current-sensor, ground is connected through your BEC.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 01:56 PM
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:01 PM
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Dennis, you may just as well produce these for sale. That is about all that is remaining to do.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rimshotcopter View Post
Dennis, you may just as well produce these for sale. That is about all that is remaining to do.
I'll leave that to someone else, but it would be nice with a platform for OpenSource
- and we still need a bit of testing before the final software is ready, but it's close.

Just checked, I ordered the TSSOP BOB for MAX7456 2 months ago.So the entire project, all code, pcb, etc. have so far been done in 2 months. That's not bad at all
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 04:44 PM
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thanks for the attachment drawings, makes it a lot easier ... i'd only suggest one thing - to power the system after the current sensor, rather than before ... this way the power draw of the osd will be included in mah readings ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickEis View Post
Dennis,

Yes - you remembered correctly , pin PPM = pin 8 on Nano -

Rebuilt Nano connections to make additions easier (see picts)

I seem to remember reading about an issue with I2c connecting 5V Nano, 3V sensors or something?

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745

http://store.diydrones.com/I2C_SMBus...br-0009-01.htm

Attached another connection diagrams to see what it all looks like -
Used to bring Nano 5V ground to 12V AV camera and transmitter - thinking maybe that creates a ground loop and maybe sending 12V through Nano? So in this diagram I brought 12V ground and power to AV equipment ...make sense?
Thinking about adding another filter on the 12 V side near AV as in the diagram.
Is that what those two big caps are in post 327?

Rick
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tang0au View Post
thanks for the attachment drawings, makes it a lot easier ... i'd only suggest one thing - to power the system after the current sensor, rather than before ... this way the power draw of the osd will be included in mah readings ...
Hi TangOau,

Hey thanks for the feedback. The Current sensor is the first thing immediately after the battery. So the way I'm thinking, every thing is included in the mah reading. So I'm not sure what you mean? Maybe I could draw it a little clearer ? ie. maybe "From Battery" instead of "To Battery"?

Maybe you could help me interpret Dennis's comment. (or maybe Dennis, if you have time to clarify while I'm thinking about it..

Dennis said, "You can just ignore the ground-connection on the current-sensor, ground is connected through your BEC"

Does he mean the main 12V ground from the battery does not need to touch the current sensor because we only need one leg of the power to sense the current? I can understand that if that is what he means. However, practically, to solder a Deans connector onto this thing the negative poles help provide structural support ...yes?

Thanks again for the feedback,

Rick
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 07:11 PM
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ah - yes, just a difference in label ... back to normal programming ...
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 07:13 AM
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First PCB-version with ISP-header


Have been tested and seems to work fine
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 09:56 AM
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An updated software-version will follow, as soon as anyone needs it. Character-upload, pin-config and GPS-config have been changed a bit.



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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:13 AM
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Dennis,

Wow.....very cool. Ha...I just received the flytron gps....looks just like yours

Do you think it is time for me to run with it? I would love to order and do some testing for you. Worst case is I have a big 30 or 40 dollar solder blob. I don't think so

So how do I do this? I'm ready to set aside the Nano version if you are thinking now is a good time to order parts and build one. (I guess I could be finishing Nano version while parts are coming.)

It seemed like you had a link once where I could click on an order a board for 5 bucks or so? Is that link still good? Then it appears the parts list is complete in a recent post. And the directions or map of where everything goes looks like it is complete.
So...do you think I should go for it now?

Rick
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickEis View Post
Dennis,

Wow.....very cool. Ha...I just received the flytron gps....looks just like yours

Do you think it is time for me to run with it? I would love to order and do some testing for you. Worst case is I have a big 30 or 40 dollar solder blob. I don't think so

So how do I do this? I'm ready to set aside the Nano version if you are thinking now is a good time to order parts and build one. (I guess I could be finishing Nano version while parts are coming.)

It seemed like you had a link once where I could click on an order a board for 5 bucks or so? Is that link still good? Then it appears the parts list is complete in a recent post. And the directions or map of where everything goes looks like it is complete.
So...do you think I should go for it now?

Rick
Hard to tell, everything have been developed quite fast, but it looks pretty good so far

The last PCB-version haven't been verified, but as every version have worked so far, and only minor changes have been made compared to the version I've just tested, I think it should be fine. But it's up to you if you are willing to take the chance.

If you end up with a 30$ solder-blob, remember not to get angry. You can always mail it to me and I'll fix it. You really need to f**k it up bad if I can't save it

PCB can be ordered here:
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fus...html?cPath=185
Press "Browse" -> upload the zip/rar-file
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3947315/OSD_PCB_V1_1.rar

Total: ~14$ with shipping for 10 pieces.

You probably don't need 10 pieces, but you can't order less. You can just sell sell a few PCB's if you want.

I'll later update all the information with BOM, component-placement etc. in a single post or post #1.

Tried to show how easy it can be to solder components like Atmega328 - but unfortunately GoPro was completely out of focus. It's been uploaded anyway, but hard to see anything.
(start at 0.25)
Atmega328 soldering - bad focus (1 min 17 sec)
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Dennis,

Ha ...you make it look too easy. You probably sit behind a solder station all day and have been doing this for years ?

Didn't you say the MAX was more difficult?

Rick
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickEis View Post
Dennis,

Ha ...you make it look too easy. You probably sit behind a solder station all day and have been doing this for years ?

Didn't you say the MAX was more difficult?

Rick
Narh, I'm still young. I've only been using SMD-components for a short time, but I've soldered my fair share.

Yes, MAX7456 is the one with small legs, but it was already soldered when I noticed the GoPro right next to me

It was not meant as a guide at all, I just recorded as the camera was laying on the table anyway.

There's plenty of good guides out there for SMD-soldering.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:58 AM
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Just to get all the info in one place. Will later be updated to post #1

The latest version of the PCB can be found here:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3947315/OSD_PCB_V1_1.rar

PCB can be ordered from Seeedstudio, BatchPCB, OSHpark or similiar.
Seeedstudio is 14$ for 10 pieces shipping included.
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fus...html?cPath=185

Just upload the file "OSD_PCB_V1_1.rar" and you are good to go. (If you order from BatchPCB you need to upload as a zip-file, and GM1 must be chosen as board outline).

The list of components can be found here (List made by Bob4432 - thanks):
http://www.bobsquads.com/MAX7456-DIY-OSD.html

Component placement:


A little explanation of the different components>


1) The slow decoupling-caps are meant as energy-storage, to maintain a stable supply-voltage. They have been placed, to act as a little filter if camera and video-transmitter are connected directly.
2 x 22uF, 10V, X5R, 1206
7 x 10uF, 10V, X5R, 0805

2) Theses caps are used to remove high-frequency noise, and supply the fast current needed for MAX7456 and Atmega328P.
5 x 100nF, 10V, X7R, 0805

3) This is used to AC-couple the output video-signal. The input-video signal is AC-coupled with a small 100nF capacitor, as the input is high-impedance.
2 x 47uF, 6.3V, tantalum, 1206

4) This is the voltage-divider used to measure battery-voltage. 3.3K and 10K have been chosen as default for 4S max.
1 x 3.3K 0805 1%
1 x 10K 0805 1%

5) Resistors used to set the video-impedance. The normal video-impedance is 70 ohm.
2 x 75R 0805 1%

6) Load crystals for Atmega 16MHz crystal
2 x 22pF, NP0, 0805 (perhaps 0603 as the space is a little tight)

7) Pull-up resistors for the Sync-signal etc. on MAX7456 and also a series-resistance on RSSI-input (can be used as any analog input)
4 x 1K 0805 1%

8) Pull-up resistor for Atmega reset-pin
1 x 10K 0805 1% (Note 10K resistor is also used in default voltage-divider)

9) Caps for the 3.3V regulator used for I2C devicces.
2 x 1uF, 10V, X7R 0805
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Frie View Post

......... It was not meant as a guide at all, I just recorded as the camera was laying on the table anyway.

There's plenty of good guides out there for SMD-soldering.
Pretty good guide anyway.... certainly gives the idea
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