Originally Posted by Kevin Greene

When you took this pic had you flown it yet???...Note the cracked prop at the hub...

Kevin

Ya - of course. I was, umm, just seeing if anybody else would notice it.

These props press onto a hex-shaped shaft with a screw through the center from the top. This might actually be a weak area - time will tell.

I don't know how long it has been like that but I just replaced it with the spare, and it made no difference to the way it flys. And it still has the annoying wobble near center cyclic stick. Stenkryparen is going to apply his electronic wizardy and see if he can do something about that.

Good eye Kevin!

regards . . . g

In the video it looks to have some wobble going on, not serious but a bit. Is that the quad, you, my perception or a combination of things?

Originally Posted by BD Murdock

In the video it looks to have some wobble going on, not serious but a bit. Is that the quad, you, my perception or a combination of things?

Moving the cyclic stick to center induces the wobble every time, whether using fast or slow stick movements. If you get moving quickly in a small (indoor) area it can be a handful to get back under control.

But once you have the x200 hovering you can easily do several stable piros in a row.

regards . . . g

After reading about the crack in the hub I inspected and found one crack in the left black propeller hub.
Don t now when it happened but some "hard landings" in the snow has occurred.
Crack is now glued, and have a piece of crimp tubing attached.

Temperature outside is between +/-0 Celsius and -10 C, the plastic can get week at these low temperatures.

Originally Posted by gordonzo

Ya - of course. I was, umm, just seeing if anybody else would notice it.

These props press onto a hex-shaped shaft with a screw through the center from the top. This might actually be a weak area - time will tell.

I don't know how long it has been like that but I just replaced it with the spare, and it made no difference to the way it flys. And it still has the annoying wobble near center cyclic stick. Stenkryparen is going to apply his electronic wizardy and see if he can do something about that.

Good eye Kevin!

regards . . . g

My intention wasn't to "out" you!!!......I just didn't want you to fly it and loose an eye!!!......

Kevin

Autoflips... bleh.
BTW, if you're looking for a quick way to completely trash your quad, go fly on the beach. One landing belly up and you'll completely destroy gears, bearings, and motors. True story.

Originally Posted by Darsh

Autoflips... bleh.
BTW, if you're looking for a quick way to completely trash your quad, go fly on the beach. One landing belly up and you'll completely destroy gears, bearings, and motors. True story.

Ha, ha, better with snow as we have here, belly up landing is no problem the quad then surf on the back.

Lol, yeah. Well, at least since i found out the hard way that the X200 is the same size of a MQX (i was hoping for it to be larger) and flies worse, I will try to make it become something else. Just ordered a bag of parts from banggood, will report in a month or so

How to fix the "glitching" that disturbs the flying experiences on the X200.

Rot cause analyses
Measured the zero point (no stick input) voltage for the 2 cyclic potentiometers. After moving the stick, voltage never went back to the zero point voltage (1,70V).

Found two main reasons for this bad behavior:
1. Friction in the plastic bearing.
2. The small board where the potentiometer is soldered was not fixed tight relative the "stick frame".
3. One bad placed wire inside transmitter interfered with the cyclic movement.

Solution
1. Dismount the back of the transmitter cover.
2. Oil all moving details where plastic meets plastic in the cyclic frame, (eight oiling points) with some for plastic suitable oil/grease.
3. Apply some heat glue on both sides of the two potentiometer boards (between frame and board).
4. Remount the back of the transmitter.
The fixing is done in ten minutes.

Result
When using high rate mode (flipping mode) the glitching is less, but not totally cured.
When using middle rate mode the glitching is visible, but don't interfere with flying characteristic.

Shoot pictures of the fix, I try to upload later.

Now the X200 is a smoother indoor flyer, and I prefer highrate even inside.

Edit

The software is strange, when applying sudden ruder left- right the bird fast goes up towards the sealing without applying throttle.

Next step is to use the board from my worn out V929.

My thinking is that the frame and rockers is weary robust and good.
The Transmitter and board with software is of bad constructions.
I should not buy it again!

English is not my origin language, please ask if you don't understand.

Mounted the old board from my worn out V929 (rev:01 2012/06/23) in the X200 frame.

Motor connection
Red wire from X200 motor arm connected to plus side on V929 socket.

Green wire from X200 motor arm connected to minus side on V929 socket.

LED connection
All four black wires from X200 motor arms connected to one 470ohm resistor (0,25W), other end of resistor soldered to minus on the V929 board.

The mod is done in 1/2 hour.

The X200 is after mod a great flyer, and will fulfill the task to be a stable carrier for a key chain camera.
(Transmitter used is VL toys "RTF E728" ) at 40% rate it is tame.

Weight with LiPo excluded is 69,4 gram.

Here is pictures that show my modification.

Hi guys, have been watching this thread for a while now and ya'll have confirmed for me that there is something lacking in the control board and or sw.

And my next step was to try a V929 fc in it as you have already done. I really like the setup of the motor and gears and the landing pads seem to work well also, being a little springy. I think I like the fact that the frame arms are a little larger at 4.5x4.5mm vs 929 and most others at 3x3mm. Time will tell how well the aluminum holds up vs CF. Be interesting to see how much weight diff it would make to replace the alum with cf.

One thing that concerns me is parts availability. I have found motor housings but no gears as of yet. Btw, have you seen the Maxtec Mini Quadcopter that Skullcopter and a few others are selling?. It looks identical to me and I'm hoping maybe that will help parts availability.

Many thanks for all the info.
X/BillyD..
.

Quote "Time will tell how well the aluminum holds up vs CF." I have conducted a lot of crashes, and its still like new (a lot better compared to V929). Also want gears as spare parts. // S

Gordonzo, thank you for your review. I have recently purchase the Syma X1, and it has very similar rotors. I even wonder if they are interchangeable with the X200 rotors. When you have a chance, I'd like to learn about the motor size, #tooth on pinion.

Have you tried binding it to non MJX Txs? I wonder if this new protocol is actually compatible with one of the other old ones.

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

Gordonzo, thank you for your review. I have recently purchase the Syma X1, and it has very similar rotors. I even wonder if they are interchangeable with the X200 rotors. When you have a chance, I'd like to learn about the motor size, #tooth on pinion.

Have you tried binding it to non MJX Txs? I wonder if this new protocol is actually compatible with one of the other old ones.

Hi HP:

I have also wondered if the x1 blades are same as the x200. On the x200, the blade presses onto a hex-shaped stub which is part of the large gear, and then secures with a screw through the blade top center. It looks like the x1 blades mount with a screw on the side similar to my v929 blades?

I have unsuccessfully tried to bind with tx's v911 & v929, x100, Blade Tandem and NE J4 & J6Pro.

I count 11 tiny little plastic or nylon teeth on the motor pinion. The motor can is 8 mm dia. These measurements are guaranteed to be accurate within 10%, 19 out of 20 times.

regards . . . g

X1 blades are exactly the same way: screw through top center. Hex hole (bigger than V929's round hole). But the shape and size of the rotor match that of the V929. Sounds like they are the same as the X200 blades.

X1 Gear system sounds similar, too. Nylon pinion, 11-t.

But I measured X1 motor as 7mm.