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Old Nov 27, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Vertical Fin.

I made the vertical fin from 2mm Depron, and added some details using some 1mm, and 3mm bits. This along with a Dave Browns Carbon Fiber Tape strip to reinforce was a grand total of 0.4g. By sealing and sanding, it went up 2/10th's of a gram to 0.6g. Looks good and seems light enough for the benefit of the charm it has.

Fred
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
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Archiving process as I go.

So here is a record of the way I progress in assembly, and the weight changes as I Go.

1. Nose cone, by itself. 0.2g

2. Nosecone and cockpit sections, roughed and ready. 0.5g

3. Looking at the freshly glued sections needing trimming, sanding, and sealing.

4. Sanding to finalize the blending and surface finish. 0.4g

5. Add Polycrylic sealer and final sand to get a paintable surface. 0.5g

So no real gain or loss going from rough state to all but finished state, sealed and ready for painting. There will be minor work after gluing, and of course a hole will be cut for cockpit access and/or hatch.

Fred
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Took the tail pipe and thrust/fan tube:

1. Seperated, I used a rolled paper strip to help align while gluing.

2. Once glued together, needing shaping. Note large step caused by the former I left out on initial cutting. 1.1g

3. The very end was a bit easy to squish and caused a small crack. I glued a strip of Silkspan '000' grade, with 50/50 Tightbond II, on the inside of tailpipe, 5/8" deep, and once dry it was very strong, little weight gain.

4. After final shaping, the Silkspan reinforcement, sealing and final sanding, ready for paint. 1.1g

Again rough to finish foam removal and shaping, but add a bit of finishing touches left the weight the same as when I started. OK with that until foam weighs nothing at all.

Fred




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Old Nov 28, 2012, 06:34 PM
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FWIW.....

So wraping up component weights the intake and collector sections weighed 1.3g.

F


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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:13 PM
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Placing all the sub-assembly on the scale (minus Fin) we are at 6.3g, so adding fin will bring us to 6.8g. This is ready to assemble and sealed so ready to paint.

F
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:18 PM
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Mockup....


I laid everything on the bench, mocked up, before proceeding. One photo is with the 1/48th scale profile version. They are the same size, but the full fuselage version looks bigger, doesn't it?

F




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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:35 PM
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nice
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:39 PM
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More EDF work, power tests, good results.

So I got the Flyzone 7mm (Black) motors I ordered. It has a 1mm shaft size which was larger than the Air Hog motors. So off to make a different tiny prop adaptor so I could mount a home made rotor.

The adaptor fits the 1mm shaft, has a 2-56" threaded prop shaft, and weiged in at 0.2g, so it is also lighter than the first one I had made. This time my attachment nut (aluminum) has a rounded tip to hopefully maximize RPM.

F
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 09:59 PM
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I love it, I love it, i love it nice job dude!
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 09:59 PM
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Freddie, have a stock number on the motor? I need a few for my micro G2
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:30 AM
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Thanks minimicrorc and MustangAce17,

There isn't too much interest in 20mm EDF I'm guessing as there once was. But I am glad you are enjoying the build so far. Getting closer......


Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangAce17 View Post
Freddie, have a stock number on the motor? I need a few for my micro G2

Tower is a great source for the Flyzone motors, here is a direct link :
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...E7mm%3C%2Fb%3E



I'll post some more test results soon. I am guessing that there is a 23% increase in the output using the new motor!

Fred


[B]Edit: [B]Post #68 above added photos of the micro prop adaptor that only weighs 0.2g
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:15 AM
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New rotor, higher output.

If you remember I had made a 4 blade rotor, then a 6 blade rotor and tested them using an Air Hogs 7mm motor. Output was averaging 7g-8g of thrust, which is the same results UNGN got using the BIM 4 blade rotor.

Fast forward since I got the hotter Flyzone 7mm motor, and made a smaller, lighter prop adaptor, I also need a new rotor since the hole in the rotor needed to be smaller. I am also happy with the final weight at 0.2g.

I also learned a bit doing the previous work, and altered the design of the new 6 blade rotor to get more performance out of it. This rotor is so close to the shroud walls that you can not even slide a piece of paper between the balde and the shroud. No touching or rubbing and blowing on the fan makes it spin like a free wheeler!

Hand fitting was worth the effort. If you look at the blank, there are two referance circles that I used to do the fitting and filing to get it dialed in. If Kevon is watching, maybe this will help in developing a more agressive BIM rotor, maybe a 6 blade rotor in the lineup also .

Fred





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Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:36 AM
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Final 22mm EDF ready for implant

So recap the old Air Hog setup was average of 7,6g thrust, using 0.6A, and 2.43 watts. This number could vary slightly as I tweeked the 4 and 6 blade rotors, but getting 6g-8g of thrust seemed sporadic and un-reliable, the whole time pushing 0.5A - 0.6A. The Air Hog motor was showing 1,8 ohm on the voltmeter.

The new Flyzone, 7mm, 1.1 ohm motor immediately showed boosted power. Run up with only the prop adaptor mounted to the shaft, to check rotation direction, caused a hot, burning rub on the fingertip. SWEET. So look at the photos, I got a good close fit and everything mounted. I tweeked the blades until I got a good balance of thrust and amperage draw.

So the motor needs to stay below 1A. We have an 0.8A(+) current draw, 3 watts output, and pushing 9.7g thrust on the scale. Yes, 9.7g. SWEET. (For a 22mm, brushed, 7mm setup) I think it's great. If I push it any harder I would worry about running it too close to the 1A limit. We are within about 10-20% of the limit, good enough since I don't want to fry the motor too quick.

The way I see it, going from 0.6A (2.43 watts) to 0.8A (3.0 watts) was roughly a 25% increase in thrust WOT, with roughly 35% more power consumption . Typical is the power goes up more than the thrust/output near the high end. So for me, I think this is the optimum setup without worrying that somethig is going to break.

My intended 100mah, 20c LiPo is only at under 45% of rated discharge capacity, so we should be good to go. Maybe a lighter, smaller cell is in order, but I am too cheap to go buy more cells to experiment unless I knew of one that is truely superior.

Thanks for letting me share my crazy tests and setup, LOL.

Fred




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Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:12 AM
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Hampton, VA
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Freddie B,

First, VERY nice build. Been under the radar and just checking it out. Second, I'm still into the 22mm EDFs. I'm just running hotter setups with the Ammo 1015 on 3s. Third, you're proving a point, I was looking at. Hot wired Micros!!! I just love what you're doing. I think more planes, outside of the traditional box construction, can be modeled. Hope to do a build or two myself in the future.

By the way, the hot wire table at the beginning of the thread, is it good for cutting accurate foam blocks? I tried another one and the table was warped. Big disappointment.

Ksqm
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksqm View Post
Freddie B,

First, VERY nice build. Been under the radar and just checking it out. Second, I'm still into the 22mm EDFs. I'm just running hotter setups with the Ammo 1015 on 3s. Third, you're proving a point, I was looking at. Hot wired Micros!!! I just love what you're doing. I think more planes, outside of the traditional box construction, can be modeled. Hope to do a build or two myself in the future.

By the way, the hot wire table at the beginning of the thread, is it good for cutting accurate foam blocks? I tried another one and the table was warped. Big disappointment.

Ksqm
First thank you Sir! And I have watched your 22mm builds too. Your videos still are burned into my memory and the great satisfaction I saw in your excitement and passion for flight. Classic and as it should be, as this is what always warms my heart when I share time with other modelers and children groups like the Scouts.

Second I just love that term, "Hot wired Micros!!!" Got a ring to it, and you get credit for coining the saying.

Third the Brushless setups you are doing is great, but I wanted to try this lightweight method and brushed is going to be lighter. Maybe smaller too???? Anyway it can be adapted and compared to the brushless setups as a next step (for me!). I also hope to catchup to where you are at one day, and my new order from BimRC should arrive soon!

As far as the table goes, I guess the best way to describe it is that it is worth $40.00. I can make new wires using 30gage steel wire found by unraveling picture frame wires, and "I" lets (eyelets? Spelling?) from the sewing section at Walmart. All wires undercut (kerf?) and hand control means everything (mine shake and jitter), so I have to post sand everything. But it is sure handy and the work goes quick. My deal is I know I need practice, practice, and more practice.

Thanks again.

Fred




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