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Old Dec 04, 2012, 03:32 AM
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To continue the document laminating film discussion if I may, can anyone point me in the direction of a UK or European supplier of 28 micron matt film in 30m lengths? All I can find are the 38 micron/150m rolls which, for my purposes, is definitely overkill!
Paul W.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:21 PM
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Hi Guys!!
Still working on Tomtit!

After make some tests, (tissue over film) i choose polyurethane base coat water finish, it is an international trademark, so you can find it almost anywhere. in the test, once the dope and poly were coat, were hard to peal from the film, and most on the edges, once you peal the edge it just run, leaving the film clear with just a layer of finish. but, the bond between two techniques, have better results with poly.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 01:38 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Looking really good CG. Have you decided on the colours yet??
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 01:42 AM
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Hi George!!
i just finish to cover the upper wing with doculam, just add 7 grams.
about the colours... orange/black... What you think?
Do you think if i rubber the film with 000 steel wool it add some adhesion?
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 01:45 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Hi Rodrigo

I don't know about the steel wool; on the Triplane I wiped the doculam down with a tissue pad moistened with methylated spirit to make sure there was no grease on the surface, that may help. I like the sound of your colours.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 03:50 AM
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Not long back I recovered a SIG cub that somebody had covered with laminating film and I was told that he had steel wooled it then wiped down with alcohol, well I will never do the same as the paint wich was a reputable model paint every time it was flown more paint flaked off ,it was turning my workshop floor into what looked like a yellow snowstorm had hit, ,and took forever to get rid of, it was very satisfying just doing a standard cub yellow film finish,
I know your trying for a lightweight durable finish but painting laminating film I would not recomend, Id rather silk except for the cost.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 04:18 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olmod View Post
Not long back I recovered a SIG cub that somebody had covered with laminating film and I was told that he had steel wooled it then wiped down with alcohol, well I will never do the same as the paint wich was a reputable model paint every time it was flown more paint flaked off ,it was turning my workshop floor into what looked like a yellow snowstorm had hit, ,and took forever to get rid of, it was very satisfying just doing a standard cub yellow film finish,
I know your trying for a lightweight durable finish but painting laminating film I would not recomend, Id rather silk except for the cost.
CG isn't going to paint the film, he is covering with tissue on top to produce an effect like that below. I don't know what brand of paint you used, but I sprayed a model covered in laminating film and de-greased with Flair Spectrum and when I sold it after five years of flying, it was still fine. The other model (Triplane) below is covered in tissue on top of doculam and sprayed, also with Flair Spectrum matt and is now 13 years plus old.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 02:19 PM
Good Better Best quest.
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Sorry about the post I thought he was going to paint it
I did not paint that cub a prevous owner did ,I did not want to name the paint product as it was just heresay but it was a well known brand.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 03:13 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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No worries olmod, since you thought he was going to paint it, it was nice of you to flag up the warning. I think maybe one of the deciding factors as to how well it paints is the doculam itself, I have always used matt finish which I think is perhaps better for paint adhesion. Most of my models are not painted as they are mostly vintage and I prefer the "tissue" look, and if using it on a scale model which does require painting, these days I would always cover it with tissue - or maybe silk if it was a WW1 type - anyway.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 11:50 PM
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Hi Guys!!
The laminating covering is done, the main wing just gain 6 grams, the lower wing gained 4, and the rudder and elevator 4 grams. this is nice... and as a first time using "modern" materials, it nice and easy. i will try to rubber all the doculam.

so my next steps: wait for arrival from Hobbyking, make some color desaing on paper, start to cut tissue and it will be bond with water poly, and finished with dope.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 01:17 AM
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CG, have you tested the method of fixing with varnish and then doping over the top? I have never used this and there may be problems with applying the dope over the varnish, please do try it first. My Tom Tit is just finished with varnish, all my models use EITHER varnish OR dope, not both together. I THINK varnish over dope would be OK, but fear there may be problems with dope over varnish. I would'nt want you to spoil the model at this late stage!
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 09:12 PM
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Hi George!!
To many information just make me so confuse...
after wetting the tissue, just placed on position and still wet, apply dope?? so, i can apply dope over wet tissue?? how many coats?
Thanks for the support!
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 02:01 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Yes, you can dope over wet tissue. OR you can use the varnish again over wet tissue. BUT I wouldn't recommend mixing varnish and dope - use one or the other.

There may be some "blushing" - white marks on the tissue - as it drys out when using dope, but this will disappear with the second coat of thinned dope.

There will be no blushing when using varnish.

But do try out on a test piece whatever you are going to use
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 01:04 PM
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I'm late to join you on this one CG, but read the previous posts with much interest.

Great progress so far. Looking forward to seeing the final finishing.

sparks
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 06:21 PM
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Hi Sparks! Thanks!! i know you are a big fan of FROGīs, and your Ravenīs video is one i like to much!
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