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Old Nov 23, 2012, 07:28 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer View Post
...I sold a couple of thousand copies of the various Sunfly designs, and although the vast majority of builders had no problems, there were one or two which resulted in very protracted correspondence and caused some hair tearing moments....
Yeah, we know where you live, Sundancer!!!

I'll keep a lookout for the plans in WH Smuttley's.

Sorry for interrupting your thread, CG! I wish I could work as meticulously and neatly as you....
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Hi Coronel, you are not interrupting any... this is an open threat, so... and, i will love to see more FROGs redesigned by George!

Well, today i cut the templates for bending the tips and all stuff, they are made with MDF (medium density foil) because this is what i have in the guitar workshop and i do the same templates for routing cavities on good, so... BUT i seal the edges with Shellac and when is dry, i rub some wax, anyway i will cover with food plastic covering.
In the same way, i found a tube where the guitar frets came, y cut the strips and but in there with hot water.

here some pics...

George, now im next to start building rudder and elevator, What type of glue do you use for inner structure?
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 03:01 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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You are doing a lovely job CG - and quickly! I used normal PVA glue throughout all the structure, but you could use CA for the tail internal structure if you prefer.

About the weight; don't forget you want a somewhat heavier model so that ou can fly in more wind!
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 03:05 AM
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OK! George!
one question, the brass tubes runs from side to side or are short pieces? its the first time i build this kind of landing gear...
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 04:01 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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The tubes are the full width of the fuselage Rodrigo. The parts of the undercarriage that plug into them are each half the width of the fuselage and meet in the middle. You only fit the undercarriage permanently after finishing the model, it is much easier than working around a fixed under carriage. The ply reinforcements around the tubes are important, if you wish to make them extra secure you could box the full width in with 1/16" ply strips as well.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 02:36 PM
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Thanks George... when i build the sides i used 1/8 ply, did not have any 1/16, now im thinking to cut some brass tube and make they run from side to side, i know i have in some place some brass eylets to finish the ends of the tubes once covered. hope to find them!!
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 03:23 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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If you used 1/8" ply for the reinforcements it will certainly be strong enough! Main thing is that the tube should be the right inside diameter to fit the wire exactly so that a spot of CA will hold it in place.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 03:49 PM
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so this is not removeble? i ask because i can see a rubber on your model....
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 04:05 PM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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No, the undercarriage is not removable once inserted after finishing. The only rubber bands on my model are those holding the lower wing on and the one over the top decking behind the top wing pylon at the F3B position which secures the rear of the hatch/pylon, the front is held by dowels into the former F2.

Is the construction and fitting of the wing struts clear to you from the plan? They are important as they help to make the finished model nice and rigid, but are a little tricky to fit as they slope both forward and outwards. If you have any trouble understanding how they fit from the plan, look at the photographs and description in the build log.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 11:24 PM
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Hi, two week with no flying time, hope tomorrow have time, have to do somethings in the morning hopping to finish them about 12 am or 1 pm and have 2 or 3 hrs for flight.
Here the weather report.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 02:12 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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When you fly lightweight models you have to be patient!
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 11:17 PM
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Hi George!
Im working on your design like a boy on the toystore!!
but have some questions,
How can i fix the rudder?
I can not find 1/16 ply for build the dihedral braces, Can i use 1/8 ply or 1/16 spruce? which one is better?
Thanks for all the suport!
Rodrigo
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 01:48 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
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Hi Rodrigo

Great progress, you really are a quick builder as well as a good one!

The rudder and elevator on my model are hinged with thin mylar hinges, they are fitted after covering and the hinges are pegged with small pieces of wooden cocktail stick. The material I use is actually cut from a piece of heat shrink of the type that is used on battery packs, but any thin FLEXIBLE mylar type material will do.

As you do not have 1/16" ply, which is the ideal size, I think it would be best to cut the dihedral braces from 1/16" spruce, the angle is shallow so the grain should not be a problem.

Although the elevator horn is a little longer than would be ideal, it should be OK, adjust the line of the elevator snake to match. You may need to use more movement at the servo end to compensate (longer elevator horn = less elevator movement for the same amount of movement at the servo). For the rudder I would prefer a shorter horn. You could easily modify the horn shown to be shorter, just drill a new hole and trim the horn to match.

I can't quite work out why your tailplane is overhanging the rear fuselage and fin. I would re-drill the holes in the tailplane and move the fin back so it is in line with the trailing edge of the tailplane, and if necessary add a strip to the back end of the fuselage so that everything is in line. Maybe some little inaccuracy has crept into the CAD plan here when re-drawing from my original
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