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Old Dec 13, 2012, 05:25 PM
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Hopefully

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Originally Posted by Johnny01 View Post
I went to fly the 9116 today with a new main motor and I noticed that it cuts off sometimes without going too high or far away. Does the mosfet bypass resolve this issue?
It might or might not, but it's the first and easiest thing to try. However it's the MOPS (red loop) on the pcb that you want to solder, not the MOSFET.

I say might or might not because mine started acting up after a PCB change because of a bad gyro. Tonight the power cut out completely and it stuffed. Good bye canopy. I've changed pcbs, TX's, servos, batteries, took off the low voltage alarm, changed the main motor, did the MOPS bypass. The only thing left to change was the tail motor and I just changed that. We'll see what happens tomorrow when I try it.

Good luck with yours.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 07:31 PM
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I feel incredibly lucky as I've only replaced the main motor/flybar... I have had to do some resolder work on the PCB and the TX but other than that this thing has been a Tank. I'm really quite nervous about any brand CP heli as I doubt they will mach the durability I've seen with the 9116.

I had a bad fly bar strike last weekend about 30 ft in the air straight down. It bounced twice in the grass. Picked it up unbent the flybar as best I could and throttled up.. rock solid hover right out of my hand. Granted my canopy and tailboom have seen better days but raw flying this thing has been a champ! I have bought so many replacement parts from the stories on here I could almost build a new chopper besides the motor all I've ever replaced was the flybar that is still flyable (its just a bit bent or out of balance and induces a noticeable shake in the heli). Hope some of you get your heli's to the point where you enjoy it as much as I do!

Granted I feel I'm ready to take the next step as I have been trying to fly this thing well past its limits last few flights ! Cheers and happy flying all!
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 07:45 PM
Eugene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pa flyer View Post
It might or might not, but it's the first and easiest thing to try. However it's the MOPS (red loop) on the pcb that you want to solder, not the MOSFET.

I say might or might not because mine started acting up after a PCB change because of a bad gyro. Tonight the power cut out completely and it stuffed. Good bye canopy. I've changed pcbs, TX's, servos, batteries, took off the low voltage alarm, changed the main motor, did the MOPS bypass. The only thing left to change was the tail motor and I just changed that. We'll see what happens tomorrow when I try it.

Good luck with yours.
Be careful doing the MOPS Mod as it acts as a circuit breaker if the motor bushes short out which bushed motors are known to do, if this happens and you have done the mod say goodbye to your PCB etc.

Now as for you loosing your motor at a distance it is the inbuilt motor safety cutoff in the MOSFET which cuts in if it has a loss of signal from the Tx due to it either being to far away or signal interference from an outside source not the MOPS.

The MOPS is only a fusible link and heat wire to protect the PCB so if you are having problems with the MOPS it is 1 due to heat from the motor drawing high Amp's as in the case of when the motor starts you might get a MOPS cutout to the motor which the DH 9116 is well known for and has been well documented in the original thread by many people that is where the MOPS mod came from.
But it mainly only happens to a dry or new motor, as the motor will need more Amp's to start up.

So it's up to you to decide to do the mod or not.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Tail motor was the problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pa flyer View Post
It might or might not, but it's the first and easiest thing to try. However it's the MOPS (red loop) on the pcb that you want to solder, not the MOSFET.

I say might or might not because mine started acting up after a PCB change because of a bad gyro. Tonight the power cut out completely and it stuffed. Good bye canopy. I've changed pcbs, TX's, servos, batteries, took off the low voltage alarm, changed the main motor, did the MOPS bypass. The only thing left to change was the tail motor and I just changed that. We'll see what happens tomorrow when I try it.

Good luck with yours.
Replaced the tail motor and today the helicopter flies fine. It was the last thing I suspected and replaced. Electronics do strange things.

Just to let you guys know in case you have problems, these were the varied symptoms. While flying the power would cut off for an instant and then return, When bringing it down from way up there at approximately 1/4 throttle it would suddenly give a burst of power for an instant. Or it would be flying normally and the tail motor would give a burst of power for an instant. There was no rhyme or reason to it: it would fly symptomless for quite awhile and then all of a sudden start acting up again in one or any combination of the above listed ways.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 02:03 PM
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 08:29 PM
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What are you guys using for battery upgrades. i know poeple say a 7.4 900mah lipo works great. i found a link to ebay with one that weighed exactly the same as stock but can't find it anymore. what do you guys use
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 09:36 PM
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I tried a 1000maH 20c LiPo in my 9104, and it didn't have enough current to go anything above 1/2 throttle, and in my plane it's good for about 7 to 8 minutes of 3/4 throttle flying, so it ain't the battery. I think the stock batteries for ALL the D.H. helis are the 1300maH LiIon batteries. Then I tried 1500maH, (3 500maH 20c LiPos in parallel) and cooked the main motor. What exactly IS the "C" rating of the stock battery anyway? I can't find any info regarding that...
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RavoHimself View Post
What are you guys using for battery upgrades. i know poeple say a 7.4 900mah lipo works great. i found a link to ebay with one that weighed exactly the same as stock but can't find it anymore. what do you guys use
we use the 7.4V 900mAh Li-Po and yes it weighs the same as the stock Li-Lo battery like this one.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:33 AM
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:47 AM
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 04:52 AM
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 06:16 AM
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The stock battery is a Li-Lion 650mAh 20C that's why we replaced them with a Li-Po 900mAh 20C battery which it the same weight and C rating as the stock one.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 12:09 AM
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You might be right as we were going by what the manufacturers told us about the specs I and Mick were dealing direct with them as I was also with the MJX F45 so maybe we should look at a 10c Li-Po I will get one and see.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 04:32 PM
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