Originally Posted by camano27

Not sure how to accomplish that mod. Pry off plastic female connector from pcb??

I just melted the top section with the soldering iron to expose the two prongs.

Originally Posted by Laidback_racer

Do I see a modded swashplate?

Yes it's modified. I had a vendor send me the wrong swashplate for the 9116 and rather than pay the postage to send it back I just kept it. I'm not sure,but I think it may be for a 9104.

I took it apart and used the top section with the bronze bushing with the lower from a 9116 swashplate. The bushing has much less slop on the hollow pipe than the stock plastic upper. I don't know how much it actually helped, but I had it and had nothing to lose by using it.

Originally Posted by Steve_

I got it down to 191 grams with battery (not including canopy).

If you lighten that thing much more it's liable to float away like a helium filled balloon! Better strap it down at night!

It's kind of hard to tell from your pictures: looks like you maybe drilled out the bottom plate?

Originally Posted by Rajah235

Sipple31 wrote,
That's the only way.
Try squeezing it back together a tad before replacing the bar.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay, thanks Rajah.

Originally Posted by Sipple31

What is the best way to remove the flybar? I don't like that it doesn't have a screw. I pried it apart and now the plastic seems to have some negative memory effects.

Best method working for me:
Get a hairdryer.
Heat the head up (but keep it safe away from melting point - so do NOT use a heat gun)
Pry it apart with your fingers - take balance bar out.
under regular circumstances the plastic is still hot enough to set itself back - if it does not - reheat and gently bend it back.

-mike-

Of course....it all depends on your ambient temperature, doesn't it?
Currently, it's still around 25 degs C & just a little hotter during the day, so I don't need any kind of heater.
Was 45 ℃ on Thursday.

Back on topic.

I changed my PCB to test a minor glitch I have, trying to control the tail's right drift. (Should say, nose to the left.)

Thought the gyro might have taken a hit but no, with the new board it does the same.

Maybe the tail motor is showing it's age?
Will check.

& I'm chasing a replacement 180 motor that is completely serviceable, but not having much luck.

Originally Posted by Rajah235

Of course....it all depends on your ambient temperature, doesn't it?
Currently, it's still around 25 degs C & just a little hotter during the day, so I don't need any kind of heater.

I was talking about temperatures around 100 deg C plus - so if that's your ambient temperature - you will need no hairdryer for sure.

-mike-

I know Mike.
It's just that with the temp up over 30 ℃, the plastic is reasonably pliable.

It's just a tad scary when you first try to remove the bar by bending the plastic tabs.

Originally Posted by Rajah235

Of course....it all depends on your ambient temperature, doesn't it?
Currently, it's still around 25 degs C & just a little hotter during the day, so I don't need any kind of heater.
Was 45 ℃ on Thursday.

Back on topic.

I changed my PCB to test a minor glitch I have, trying to control the tail's right drift. (Should say, nose to the left.)

Thought the gyro might have taken a hit but no, with the new board it does the same.

Maybe the tail motor is showing it's age?
Will check.

& I'm chasing a replacement 180 motor that is completely serviceable, but not having much luck.

Yeah I saw they had to add another color to the heat map for you blokes.
That's crazy hot.

What model was it that had compatible parts for the 9116?

Also, might the coax blade have less lift so I could use as bolt on?

I think Steve or Mike mentioned that "some of" the 9100/9104 parts are interchangeable, but not sure about which they were.

It's in this thread or the "old one"....... somewhere.
Tried a search for 9104? or compatible?

No, it was in this thread also:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=704
All parts of the DH9100 but the swashplate and the PCB are identical to 9116 parts but a lot cheaper.
One 9116 part is actually cheaper than a 9100 part at banggood - the blue canopy (2USD shipped).
In fact I ike the 9100 canopy better, the blades also.

-mike-

So I went ahead and installed a new oem main motor that I had, and the heli showed the same symptoms. With my tx tail rotor trim set at 120% the bird had a non rotating hover, without setting any sub trim in flight. So the oem motor seems to be slightly stronger than the xtreme I installed the day before.
I guess I am going to have to change out the pcb and cross my fingers that I don't have a hassle with binding to the new board. And hope my problem is a tweeked gyro. Because the old gyro does appear to be working when doing the hand test.

Ken

Alright so i trimmed the main blades after they broke thanks to the cold PA weather.

Now I'm looking to remove the flybar weights to trim them down, any suggestions on how to remove them?

Heat?

and I will also be working on the pcb and battery moves, so hopefully soon I will be able to hlp chip in on mod ideas...

John

Originally Posted by jkoosh27

Alright so i trimmed the main blades after they broke thanks to the cold PA weather.

Now I'm looking to remove the flybar weights to trim them down, any suggestions on how to remove the.

John

Just heat them to soften the thread locking compound and screw them off while they're warm. Even a cigarette lighter will work. It doesn't take much heat.