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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:29 AM
Build the Weapon....
Australia, VIC, Berwick
Joined Jan 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajah235 View Post
I just checked at both suppliers.
> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ervo_0_5g.html
> http://shop.dubro.com/p/micro-ball-link-for-047

Of course, you have to add a little shipping but they're still cheap compared to the Aussie (If avail.) prices.
The servo is $10 US plus each, then add the ball link?
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:31 AM
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Joined Jul 2009
4 Posts
9116 swashplate movement

I am trying to help my son-in-law with his heli.
When the elevator stick is moved to forward both servos move up and the swashplate tilts forward, however when the elevator stick is moved back only the left hand servo moves down so that the swashplate tilts back and to the left. The right hand servo does not move.
When the aileron stick is moved to the left the left hand servo moves down and the right hand servo moves up tilting the swashplate to the left. However when the aileron stick is moved to the right only the right hand servo moves down tilting the swashplate the the right and back. The left hand servo does not move.
From previous helis I have flown I feel sure this is not correct but do not know how to correct it in this model.
I am sure this set up will lead to some interesting flying attempts.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
I am presently flying a v911 using a hk6 transmitter with better mixing.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:35 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,625 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lancealot View Post
I am trying to help my son-in-law with his heli.
When the elevator stick is moved to forward both servos move up and the swashplate tilts forward, however when the elevator stick is moved back only the left hand servo moves down so that the swashplate tilts back and to the left. The right hand servo does not move.
When the aileron stick is moved to the left the left hand servo moves down and the right hand servo moves up tilting the swashplate to the left. However when the aileron stick is moved to the right only the right hand servo moves down tilting the swashplate the the right and back. The left hand servo does not move.
From previous helis I have flown I feel sure this is not correct but do not know how to correct it in this model.
I am sure this set up will lead to some interesting flying attempts.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
I am presently flying a v911 using a hk6 transmitter with better mixing.
Do not worry - it is all regular behaviour of the servos for a DH9116. Just dial the bird in according to the Tech Manual you will find in Post #1

Happy Flying
-mike-
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefromgermany View Post
Do not worry - it is all regular behaviour of the servos for a DH9116. Just dial the bird in according to the Tech Manual you will find in Post #1

Happy Flying
-mike-
Thanks Mike
I have read the manual and found it helpfull.
I also found the slop which I assume is in the transmitter scary.
When you move the elevator stick forward and release it is not the same neutral on the servos as if you move the stick back and release. The last time I encountered this was when a transmitter had slippage in the pot mounting. I dont really want to dismantle someone elses transmitter. Although it is usually better than dismantling your own.
Lance
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:44 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
Rajah235's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
625 Posts
For Laidback_racer,
I don't know where you're getting the $10.00 from, unless you are including postage.
The Aus site quotes $3.54 for the Turnigy 1440A.
> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

Dubro ball sockets are $3.99 US from DUBRO.com as I posted.

I shall quote what I paid for both items.
I bought 3 Turnigy servos. Delivered they cost $19.61.
I bought 2 Pkts of the Dubro ball links. Delivered they cost $!5.50. The postage from the US is the killer.

(I bought more than I needed for spares.)
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:52 AM
Build the Weapon....
Australia, VIC, Berwick
Joined Jan 2013
907 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajah235 View Post
For Laidback_racer,
I don't know where you're getting the $10.00 from.
The Aus site quotes $3.54 for the Turnigy 1440A.
> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

Dubro ball sockets are $3.99 US from DUBRO.com as I posted.
Click on the link and try to purchase. It was $10 1 hour ago, at time of writing it is 13.56 US.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 08:02 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
Rajah235's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
625 Posts
That's because they charge $8.99 postage in Aus.
One servo was going to cost me $12.53.

Rip off.
It's still going to cost about the same from the US.
Must be a "standard" charge?.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 10:52 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
393 Posts
well crap, I think I ruined my battery pack. I wasn't thinking about flight time, and flew until it started coming down. when I put it on the charger, read 6V.

just ordered 2 950mah Nano tech packs.
the heli is front heavy now. I wonder if I should get 2 450 or 500mah packs, have one up front and one on the base that holds the tail shaft.

steve, you don't happen to have a spare set of trimmed blades do you, I'll pay you. Im ok with a screwdriver and zip ties, but I can't cut a straight line to save my life.
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Last edited by resago; Jan 18, 2013 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 11:37 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,625 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by resago View Post
well crap, I think I ruined my battery pack. I wasn't thinking about flight time, and flew until it started coming down. when I put it on the charger, read 6V.

just ordered 2 950mah Nano tech packs.
the heli is front heavy now. I wonder if I should get 2 450 or 500mah packs, have one up front and one on the base that holds the tail shaft.

steve, you don't happen to have a spare set of trimmed blades do you, I'll pay you. Im ok with a screwdriver and zip ties, but I can't cut a straight line to save my life.
if it is the stock batt, don't worry - it is a LiIo-batt, no LiPo.
save low voltage of a LiIo is 2.7V per cell.

-mike-
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefromgermany View Post
if it is the stock batt, don't worry - it is a LiIo-batt, no LiPo.
save low voltage of a LiIo is 2.7V per cell.

-mike-
Unfortunately, it was my 900mah lipo pack
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:09 PM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,625 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by resago View Post
Unfortunately, it was my 900mah lipo pack
hmm. give it a shot with the stock charger to about 3.3V - then insert the batt in the LiPo charger and finish the charge - maybe with 3.0 per cell you still are lucky. discharge to 3.5V and recharge to determine the capacity
-mike-
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:16 PM
RTF (Ready to Fragment)
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United States, WI, Beloit
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 01:44 PM
San Mateo, CA
HPCR's Avatar
United States, CA, Foster City
Joined Dec 2012
1,109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
You guys that are talking crap about the mods, why are you here?
Is this not a 9116 Mod thread?

Do you even own a 9116?

Most of us bought these without knowing any better, and bought them
because they were what we could afford.

As far as dumping money into mods... you people really need to work
on your reading comprehension.

None of my mods cost more than a few dollars. I don't have any money, remember?

All of the money I have spent on this bird was for replacement parts,
either because I flew it so much the parts wore out (as they would
on ANY brushed helicopter) or from crashes (again, ANY helicopter
costs money when you crash) and half of those crashes, I was not the pilot.

All the replacement parts I bought would have cost far more if I had
a hobby grade helicopter. These parts are about as cheap as it gets.

The PCB move cost nothing, a few pieces of old wire I had laying around,
and some servo tape.

The DD tail mod costs the same as a stock tail, and lasts over twice as long,
so it is actually cheaper.

Chopping the weights on the flybar cost me about $0.50 in cut-off wheels.

The upgraded ball links came from spares for my HK250GT, and cost $2.

The Syma S031 tail motor I used to recommend is more powerful than
the stock tail motor, and costs $3.39, less than the cost of a stock tail.

I have 3 sets of spare main blades that came with multiple package-deal
parts kits. So those cost me almost nothing.

The Wasp V3 skids are the only thing that cost more than stock, and they
are twice as flexible and almost impossible to break. These survived 3 crashes
that would have decimated the stock skids, so they are cheaper in the long
run as well.

If it improves performance, and costs the same or less than stock components,
how on earth could you possibly find fault in that? How could you complain about
it? How do you even function in life without having any logic?

I'm sorry my mods don't turn your helicopter into a 3D, maintenance free,
crash-proof rocket.

If that's what you were expecting, you will be very disappointed.

My 9116 has twice the cyclic of a stock unit, climbs like mad, and is almost
as stable as a bone stock 9116.

That's about it, and I never claimed anything different. I even posted a video
showing the rate of climb, and even though the video quality is poor,
it leaves no doubt about how fast it can climb.

For a $70 RTF helicopter combo with a computer radio, battery, and charger,
it doesn't leave much money for motors, servos, or quality plastics.
Not long ago, a 4 channel computer radio cost twice that, even the cheap ones.

Sure, this bird has limitations. It has one of the most sluggish head designs around,
and there is only so far you can go. It was designed with beginners in mind, and
the sluggish performance is intentional.

We have shattered many of the limitations, and we did it spending under
five dollars at a time. Anybody complaining about that has issues that extend
beyond the scope of this thread.
I think, Steve, your work and attention to detail is awesome. Some of your suggestions could be put " into production" some not. I am just hoping the DH folks are reading your log(s) like all of us do. Obviously, in your cost calculation you do not consider yourself on a Union hourly rate when doing the mods. Do you ??
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 01:46 PM
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Joined Aug 2012
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Another modification question

If the pcb was turned around and mounted on the baseplate completely underneath the motor so that the battery could be mounted vertically in front of the motor do you think there would be any problems with radio reception? In the stock mounting position the antennae is way forward and clear of anything else. I think that would be the ultimate battery position for increased agility.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 02:23 PM
RTF (Ready to Fragment)
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