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Old Jan 17, 2013, 02:37 PM
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DH9116 Weight reduction to 199 grams.

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Old Jan 17, 2013, 02:53 PM
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I wish I knew how much throttle I am giving, my throttle stick is hosed and I had to change the rates to get full throttle by half stick. Makes for an interesting experience. I have a fs9 on the way.

I've been reading the reviews on the 912 and want one now.

wish I had a mailing scale to weigh mine.

there is an area of metal below and toward the front of the tail block that could be drilled out to loose more weight.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:03 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:25 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:32 PM
Ain't crashing often anymore
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Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
There is a HUGE difference. When the plastics on a 9116 get cold,
they get very brittle.

45-50 degrees F is about as cold as you want to go without risking damage.
At freezing and below, the parts are a hard as a rock, and even just
barley clipping anything almost always results in a broken part.

I damaged a tail blade last week when it hit a tiny twig on the ground that
was about half the size of a cigarette butt.
As stated in the manual : you should not fly in temps below 40F (4.4c)

-mike-
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:43 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:53 PM
cut cut cut... ****!
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United States, PA, Birdsboro
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefromgermany View Post
As stated in the manual : you should not fly in temps below 40F (4.4c)

-mike-
I'll third that statement....I just got back in from a flight at 41F according to local weather and i managed to actually break a main blade on a fairly small twig (maybe 1/2 diameter) that i could see on the ground 30 yards away. I have also broken 2 inner shaft pieces and dogbones. DO NOT FLY IN COLD WEATHER, PERIOD. Not for lack of previous statements.

Steve I weighed mine out and have gotten to 205 without the canopy, and finally managed to get it trimmed to a hands free hover with all trims on the tx at 0. wow that only took 15 flights haha.

Side question. How have you guys removed the flybar weights to trim the weights down? haven't tried on my own but i didnt care to wait for new ones after i got careless.

John

Edit: I could not see the twig on the ground.....
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 04:15 PM
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And it's a tie!!! (Or pretty dang close!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
I just drilled some more holes, and removed the shrink
wrap and stickers from my battery. I finally got below 200 Grams.

199.1 grams, to be exact. This is without a canopy.
My Wasp V3 canopy weighs 13.3 grams, bringing total
flying weight to 212.4 grams.

My stock canopy weighs 15.3 grams, so it would weigh 214.4 grams
without the lighter Wasp V3 canopy (2 grams heavier).

There is plenty of room for improvement. Has anybody managed
to beat 212 grams?

200 gms with battery and no canopy
212 gms with battery and lightened stock canopy
209 gms with battery and home-made lightweight plastic canopy

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Old Jan 17, 2013, 04:30 PM
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I agree its irresponsible to fly in cold temps, but ill risk it, parts are cheap.. I believe my tail motor is now gone. Flew it twice last night, first flight was great, but the second was terrible. Kept spinning counter-clockwise no matter how much trim i gave it. New tail assembly and stock main motor on the way as well as a better battery. Ill be upgrading to the honey bee dd tail soon, and a charger. Does anyone have experience flying with a dd tail? How well does it perform?

Thanks for all the great info!
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 04:36 PM
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Btw, is anyone familiar with radioshack xmods? I have a spare stock motor somewhere. Xmods run on 4aaa's and the stock motor has a max rpm rating of 25000. Idk what the voltage or amp ratings are but its a pretty powerful motor, and i think is about the same physical size.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 04:44 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 04:50 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Here is the link to the DD tail mod:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1806445

This is pulled from my post in that thread:

Some other reasons to use this tail drive:

1) Lower rotating mass, allowing for quicker response and easier flying.
2) The direct drive allows lower motor RPM, giving longer bushing and brush life.
3) No gears to break or incorrectly mesh, and elimination of gear whine.
4) Elimination of the cheap plastic tail shaft bushings.
5) More efficient due to lower friction (no gear mesh or shaft bushings)

It costs roughly the same, but lasts over twice as long.

Mike said he has over 80 flights on his, with no loss of power.

I have had stock tail units noticeably start to lose power after 15-20 flights.
I've never squeezed more than 50 flights out of a stock tail.

Usually by 30 flights, the tail is no longer strong enough to keep up with
the main motor at 100% throttle, especially if your 9116 is modded.

If you fly as aggressively as I do, this causes big problems, because it will
spin out at the worst possible time, sometimes making me lose orientation.
Thanks, ill deffinately be doing this mod soon. Iv already had about a dozen flights so far so i think thats an alright amount of life from an overworked tiny motor. Just wish they would have spent the extra few bucks for higher quality motors and battery, id be willing to spend a whole $100 on one if the quality was there. But for $78 im satisfied. Hopefully i dont have to put more than another $100 into it for it to fly well. The modded heli's iv seen pics of are really nice, good work guys!
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 05:54 PM
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United States, CA, Foster City
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Here is the link to the DD tail mod:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1806445

This is pulled from my post in that thread:

Some other reasons to use this tail drive:

1) Lower rotating mass, allowing for quicker response and easier flying.
2) The direct drive allows lower motor RPM, giving longer bushing and brush life.
3) No gears to break or incorrectly mesh, and elimination of gear whine.
4) Elimination of the cheap plastic tail shaft bushings.
5) More efficient due to lower friction (no gear mesh or shaft bushings)

It costs roughly the same, but lasts over twice as long.

Mike said he has over 80 flights on his, with no loss of power.

I have had stock tail units noticeably start to lose power after 15-20 flights.
I've never squeezed more than 50 flights out of a stock tail.

Usually by 25 flights, the stock tail motor is no longer strong enough to keep up with
the main motor at 100% throttle, especially if your 9116 is modded.

If you fly as aggressively as I do, this causes big problems, because it will
spin out at the worst possible time, sometimes making me lose orientation.

The Syma S031 tail motor lasted about 40 flights before the tail would no
longer hold. It has slightly more power than a stock motor and holds the tail
like a rock, but does not seem to last any longer than the stock motor overall.
It does give you more power for more flights, but in the end, the brushes
end up giving out completely at 50 flights, same as a stock motor.

Once I get my DD tail parts, I'm pretty sure the tail will hold no matter how
hard I push it. It's a bigger motor from a bigger helicopter, and a 9116 won't even
begin to use all of the power it is capable of. Mike said it doesn't even need
a heatsink.

Since the output transistors for the main and tail motor are the same size,
the PCB should handle the larger tail motor with ease.
There is no doubt that the mfg could build these components with some more longevity in mind and frankly that would cost very little. The issue really is always around "how far can you go modding this thing" and "where do you stop" because there will always be one component that is the most likely to fail. I do think modding is a nice disease or illness to have and we all are learning more about what spares to stock, where to look for the parts so we can get our grubby little hands on these toys, and what to expect. Currently I have 2 of my DH9116's on the bench waiting for the rotor head/ inner shaft 9116-06 part number. Perhaps they also got a case of the cold because the pin that lock the blades into position just sheared off on both of them with a really mild bump on landing which tipped the helis over on a side - both with power cut -.
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