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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:00 AM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:05 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
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Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fathead View Post
Hey i have a question. Im from utah, U.S. and its pretty cold outside, mostly between 0 F and just below freezing right now. Does cold air affect flight differently than hot air? Iv noticed i dont have an overheating issue, hopefully ill get longer life out of my motors. But other than the motor temp, will warmer air change the flight characteristics? Hopefully it will last long enough to fly in spring air. I am getting better with each flight, and am loving this little machine.
Your plastics will getting extreme brittle below 35 F. Even a hard landing may break sth.
-mike-
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:11 AM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:38 AM
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I've crashed a few times, and its help up. I think my last crash was 6 or 7 flights ago. But i would think there might be some kind of difference in about 15 degrees vs 80 degrees F.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
For the record, a 20C 800mAh LiPo can put out 16 amps continuously.

The stock Li-Ion packs are 10C at 650 mAh, and rated for 6.5 amps continuous.

At this rate, it would discharge in 6 minutes, which is close to the flight
time of a 9116 with a stock pack.

The 9116 with stock motors draws close to 7 amps average during
normal flight. My power supply is digitally limited to 7.1 amps max,
and it was tripping the limits when powering my 9116.

Since the tail draws a little over an amp, the main motor must be drawing
around 5-6 amps.

This explains why the stock Li-Ion 10C pack is warm after a run, and my
20C LiPo packs are nice and cool. The 9116 runs at the design limit of the
stock Li-Ion pack, around 6 or 7 amps.

5 Amps at 8 volts is 40 Watts, a ton of heat for that tiny main motor to dissipate.
Just a quick note. only a portion of the 40 watts is heat, for example, if a brushed motor is 80% efficient, then 20% of the fed power is turned to heat, the rest gets used doing the work of spinning the shaft. IE 8 Watts of heat generated in this example.
brushless motors are typically 90% efficient or more
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 08:41 AM
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the 180 Pro A spins the correct direction when hooked up like the original motor (negative toward the servo connectors)
I had to use a small flat blade screwdriver to slide the gear down a little so it made full mesh with the main gear, but it slide easily enough.
its been horrible weather here in Alabama, and I don't get home until dark, so I haven't been able to put it through its paces. on the few punch outs I've tried, the tail held, so I may have some weak fets, but since my old main motor was almost to bare brush arms, it was a good upgrade.

mods done so far:
1) battery/PCB swap
2) drilled bottom plate out, lost tail support bars stabilizer, and rear landing strut (it lands on the tail fin and snipped front landing gear) - I don't bouce it much anymore.
3) bent gyro bar
4) drilled out gyro bar holder for more max angle
5) snipped off blade arm pivot tabs allowing more max angle
6) 900mah 25c bat
7) Pro 180 A motor

4 and 5 actually allow a stronger gyro correction in wind, makes it more stable.

its lightened to the point to where I had a 900mah in the stock location and had a 1000mah flat pack strapped to the bottom and it flew like my old one on the stock motor/chassis/battery!
don't worry, I just did that as a test, it flew like a bus.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 08:58 AM
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Re: outside interference

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Sounds like a motor getting ready to go, or a bad solder joint somewhere.

OH, wait... Both of them ??? That's weird. Especially if the V911 flies fine.

As far as I know, a fresh bind picks a random channel with a clean signal.

It sounds like random interference, and there is really nothing you can do about it
other than increase the wattage of your TX. These are 1/10th of a watt from what
I understand, it would not take much to overpower it.

It was probably a more powerful device suddenly using that frequency, forcing your bird to
switch channels, giving you a glitch (although, it should be able to switch channels fast
enough that you never see the glitch... maybe these radios are slow).

Just my best guess.
I changed the main motor to one with a single wire and it made no difference. So that ruled out the heavier wire being the problem. Here's something interesting though. I just came in from flying through three batteries and what I noticed was that the heli only cut out when flying on one side of my house. When I flew on the other side it was fine. I switched sides repeatedly to make sure it wasn't just coincidental and it definitely wasn't.

So I started looking around and on a pole approx. 80' from where it would cut out was a transformer. I don't know enough about electronics to blame the transformer but it sure seems suspicious.

On another note: when I put in the different motor and went to take off the rotor blades spun backwards. The wires were reversed on a new motor. I just love their quality control.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 09:14 AM
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do you happen to have a wireless router or phone on that side of the house? perhaps near a window?
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 09:14 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
Rajah235's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
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Pa flyer wrote...
Quote:
when I put in the different motor and went to take off the rotor blades spun backwards.
But didn't you want to see if they'd fly inverted?


Like you, I can't see why a line transformer would interfere with an RC model on 2.4 GHz.
Very strange.
Anyway, now you know where not to fly.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 11:37 AM
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I don't, but---

Quote:
Originally Posted by resago View Post
do you happen to have a wireless router or phone on that side of the house? perhaps near a window?
I don't, but I was also pretty near to the neighbor's house on that side and they might.

I just got back from flying my helis up at my property where there is nothing around. I had to know if they had a problem; it would bug me until I found out. Anyway, they flew there without a glitch. (Other than flying one into the ground on FF due to a brain f--t! Good thing there was enough snow that I didn't damage anything).
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 12:01 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 12:18 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:13 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:23 PM
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I don't have any amp readings, and my old motor is so worn out, it wouldn't provide meaningful data. I mainly did it because it is repairable. the pro A doesn't seem to draw all that much more, but I can tell you the magnets are a good deal stronger. it cogs very noticeably when turned by hand.
I think my pro came with carbon brushes, but the only replacements I found on ebay were silver, so I ordered 4 sets.
I was hoping the only difference was conductivity, I hope they don't wear the motor any faster.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 02:02 PM
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