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Old Feb 10, 2013, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
To bind, turn on the helicopter right after turning on the transmitter,
while it is still beeping.
awesome that worked - I was leaving it too long - thanks!
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:42 AM
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:51 AM
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 06:19 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
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Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
624 Posts
tada1096,
If it doesn't want to drift left & the servos are functioning as per,
then I suggest that you turn it on, hold the beastie at eye level & watch the swash plate
as you power up.
It should kick the right servo down slightly at power up & then level out.
Reset the trim & adjust the push rods a little to achieve a level swash plate when powered up.

Steve, that sounds great.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 06:27 AM
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Australia, NSW, Keerrong
Joined Jan 2013
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hey steve, ive been reading back through from the start of this second 9116 thread..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
That red loop is not normal wire, it appears to be heater wire, literally
the wire they use for the elements in space heaters.

It is a nickel/chrome alloy that has unique electrical characteristics,
and in this situation it is a current limiter. Replacing it with normal wire,
or bypassing it by soldering the wire mounts together would be like
replacing a fuse with a copper bar.

Do not bypass it.

Also, the motor wire mod has diminishing returns, as you quickly get to a point
where the extra weight of the heavier wire offsets the extra wattage getting
to the motor. This is especially true for the long run to the tail motor.
I have not replaced the wire to my tail motor, only the main motor.


Slightly larger wire than stock is all you need, and running too heavy a gauge
of wire possibly might make take the MOPS circuit in the opposite direction,
causing it to NOT trip when it should, and this is EXACTLY what is happening
when you bypass the "red loop".
my modded power leads from pcb to motor are braided speaker wiring, 1.2mm thick (no including the insulation).
anyway, im lucky to be able to fly exclusively over nice thick grass .. and after quite a few nose dives and grassy rotor tangles, ive not yet had a MOPS failure or pcb burnout.
just thought id reassure folks and encourage them to try it.. it gets rid of the MOPS cutoff nonsense without a bypass.. and i swear it increases engine power and response very nicely.

youve got a good point about the tail rotor wiring. too heavy.. but i cant help thinking it would be worth it in the long run with something thicker than stock, but thinner than the heavy stuff for the main.

btw.. how much heavier is the dd honey bee motor? ive got one in the mail somewhere
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:01 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
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Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
624 Posts
Hi,
The DD motor by itself comes in at around 15 gms & in the tail assy. with prop etc, about 25 gms.
It's a little hard to post a figure on the original, coz I've only got complete tail assy's.
They are about 16 gms & that's with the lead end resting on the table, so it's not an accurate reading.
But the HB DD's are heavy, like a stone age club.

If your tail motor is functioning as it should, then don't change the wire.

L..
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gygax View Post
hey steve, ive been reading back through from the start of this second 9116 thread..



my modded power leads from pcb to motor are braided speaker wiring, 1.2mm thick (no including the insulation).
anyway, im lucky to be able to fly exclusively over nice thick grass .. and after quite a few nose dives and grassy rotor tangles, ive not yet had a MOPS failure or pcb burnout.
just thought id reassure folks and encourage them to try it.. it gets rid of the MOPS cutoff nonsense without a bypass.. and i swear it increases engine power and response very nicely.

youve got a good point about the tail rotor wiring. too heavy.. but i cant help thinking it would be worth it in the long run with something thicker than stock, but thinner than the heavy stuff for the main.

btw.. how much heavier is the dd honey bee motor? ive got one in the mail somewhere
I doubled up the wires to the stock tail motor and it increased it's power to the point that I have to set the trim to 95% to keep it from overpowering the main motor. Once that tail motor is worn out I'm going to go back to the single wired stock set-up.

The dd motor weighs 16 gms and the stock motor is 6 gms. The weight difference is offset slightly by trimming the motor housing for the dd motor. It's still a lot more weight to be hanging off the tail boom so far from the cog. If you still have the horizontal stabilizer and decorative bars installed you'll want to remove them. Shortening the boom is also an option to remove some of the leverage effect. If you do just make sure you don't shorten it so much that the main rotors contact the tail rotors.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:15 AM
Slope Soaring Plank Scratcher
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Australia, NSW, Keerrong
Joined Jan 2013
594 Posts
yeah, i figured it could prolong the tail a few flights maybe, but the wire right along the boom would be heavy..
sounds like the dd tail motor is going to throw COG out a tad for me. i already ditched the rear horizontal 'stabiliser' and support bars. i dont want to add weight, but i really do like having a slightly front biased COG for FFF

i tried a new mod today

i moved the front landing legs back along the skids to about 20mm from the rear legs.. looks cool, and it means the skids have much more flex in them when hard landing. the front of the skids splay out to the sides and take the shock a bit better
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gygax View Post
yeah, i figured it could prolong the tail a few flights maybe, but the wire right along the boom would be heavy..
sounds like the dd tail motor is going to throw COG out a tad for me. i already ditched the rear horizontal 'stabiliser' and support bars. i dont want to add weight, but i really do like having a slightly front biased COG for FF
I don't know how your helicopter is set up but rather than add weight you would be better off moving the battery forward to compensate for the dd tail if you have to.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:28 AM
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was it you pa, that first thought of the cool 'crashplate' battery mount at the front? if it was, i take my hat off to you

i have made a thin metal plate (olive oil can), glued on velcro, then screwed it to the front of the bottom chassis and the top of the old pcb mount.. (pcb is underneath) - so the battery is as far forwards and as high as it can go.. hence the great forward speed and cyclic response

i guess ill just have to see how it balances once i change in the DD motor (hope it gets here before i murder this one)
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Well, the verdict it in folks. I just came in from a flight
with 8 Mph wind and 12 Mph gusts, and I kept control
with only 50% rates and a bad servo that jumps around
sometimes.

At higher rates, full cyclic brings loud complaints from
the blades, as they attack the air.

This may very well be the results I was craving, but it's
way too windy right now to be sure.

Inside it flies precise and snappy, and is well over twice as
responsive as the F645.

The mixing arms from a Wasp V3 seem to work very well
with my custom metal linkage.
So Steve, are you going to go with the V3 mixing arms then or are you still going to experiment with higher ratios? I personally didn't care for the 2 to 1 ratio at all. We have relatively calm winds today. I'll do some more outside flying this afternoon with the 1.5 to one ratio and see how I like it. I might just go down to 1.25 to 1. We'll see.

Last night I tried reversing the links on the mixing arm so that the blades had the leverage, just to see what would happen. I actually didn't think it would fly at all. I was surprised that I could hover it.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gygax View Post
was it you pa, that first thought of the cool 'crashplate' battery mount at the front? if it was, i take my hat off to you

i have made a thin metal plate (olive oil can), glued on velcro, then screwed it to the front of the bottom chassis and the top of the old pcb mount.. (pcb is underneath) - so the battery is as far forwards and as high as it can go.. hence the great forward speed and cyclic response

i guess ill just have to see how it balances once i change in the DD motor (hope it gets here before i murder this one)

No, I can't take the credit for that. I originally had my battery in the original location but further forward. I now have changed everything around and am also using the crashplate mount.

That's the really great thing about this forum. We have a bunch of minds attacking these problems from different angles and coming up with a lot of creative ideas. They say two heads are better than one, but we have many! It will be interesting to see what the 9116 ultimately morphs into.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 08:10 AM
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Hey Steve!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajah235 View Post
Hi,
The DD motor by itself comes in at around 15 gms & in the tail assy. with prop etc, about 25 gms.
It's a little hard to post a figure on the original, coz I've only got complete tail assy's.
They are about 16 gms & that's with the lead end resting on the table, so it's not an accurate reading.
But the HB DD's are heavy, like a stone age club.

If your tail motor is functioning as it should, then don't change the wire.

L..

Your scale says the dd motor weighs 15 gms and mine read 16 gms. That's a 7% difference. My scale must be off: reading too high. Now I know the reason that Steve's 9116 weighs less than mine!
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 08:16 AM
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????

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajohnson677 View Post
My current bird. More mods to come. Just lightening her up and changing the COG made a world of difference. The tail has never been this responsive and it handled 15mph gusts like a champ.
Maybe we should call that a 4558 instead of a 9116 because half of it ain't there!!
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:50 AM
enter a new realm.....
simz's Avatar
Joined Dec 2012
320 Posts
bla

well I got bored again.....motor is a n60 for a 11 volt system, with adapter hub and blade for $11 from L H S,,, no overseas shipping and no waiting..
the thin ga. Al. sheet was $1.40 (4in x 8 in) ,,the rest can be used elsewhere..
batt. moved more forward and lower on its perch..
trims are all 0 and swash is slightly forward ((alot of tweaking with weight dist. to get the swash that way-----dont want to lose range of motion by elec. trim adjustments)) which equals full cyclic throws of swash....


p.s. contrary to what is said about the n60 motor ,,,it works perfect (no wag and real good head lock) just let things cool down between batt. changes...
p.s.s- I went threw at least 11 batt. packs in full hover only mode for testing purposes,,,good so far(knock on wood)
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