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Old Nov 19, 2012, 01:36 PM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
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Ultracoat vs Monocoat

I have built and repaired planes using Ultracoat and am pretty good at achieving a nice finished product. I will be using Monocoat for the first time on a project due to availability of what I need locally. What if any differences are there in the products, how they apply, shring etc?
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 01:56 PM
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United States, NY, Eldred
Joined Jun 2012
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I am completely opposite. Just covered my first plane in monokote, next build going to do in ultracoat. I can't give you a comparison, but I personally did not find monokote difficult to work with. I was very pleased with my results. It easily shrank down drum tight with only a sealing iron. I do have a heat gun but didn't need it. I have 16 flights on the plane I covered and I clean it with paper towels and windex after each flight. It looks the same as when new. None of the edges are coming up...seems very durable. I had no problems stretching around corners etc. Most people I ask say monokote has changed over the years and don't like it. I'm going to use ultracoat next just for my own comparison. Also, there are many threads on this topic if you do a search.. Hope this helps.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 09:15 AM
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United States, TX, Leander
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I've done both. Started with Monocoat when it first came out. Much faster than doing a silk job on the old control liners. When I tried ultracoat I switched for good and never looked back. I find it goes around compound curves better, shrinks better, and just gives me better control. I've burned a hole in monocoat trying to get that last little wrinkle out. Here in central Texas there is no covering that will not wrinkle in the hot sun. General maintenance is to reshrink the covering every now and then. Over the years of doing that, monocoat reaches its limit before ultracoat does. I just wish UC didnt cost so much.
Edwin
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 12:02 PM
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United States, CA, Guerneville
Joined Mar 2012
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Everyone I talk to says that ultra is the way to go. I have only covered one plane and I used mono. I didn't have any problems with wrinkles or corners. Everyone in my club says that once you go ultra you don't go back.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 12:34 PM
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USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jan 2005
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I have used mono for many years and everyone states they changed fhe "formula" or what have you. I have used Ultra for the last few years b/c mono is much thicker.. harder to apply, especially around compound curves and is much more difficult to get wrinkles out. Stay away from it if you can.

I like you needed a color and didnt want to wait and bought a role of mono again. My old fears soon were affirmed but but with much much much much much (i would keep going but you get the idea) patience and care... a good finish is possible. A very good finish with Ultra is more easily acheived without the experience required.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:18 PM
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I have used both for years. No doubt about it UltraCote is stronger and shrinks further. And it resists heat blow through much better.

That said, MonoCote is lighter, cheaper and requires a bit more skill to work with. I may be wrong about this, but I think there are more color choices in MonoCote as well. There is also a small amount of off the shelf paint (LusterCote) available to match some of the basic MonoCote colors, which can be a Godsend when you need to finish a canopy and pants as well.

Chris
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 11:19 PM
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In my opinion Ultracoat is way easier to work with,and I can't tell a whole lot of difference in color. Monocoat,some colors are pretty forgiving while others are a real pain. Like flourecent (which I don't think Ultracoat has).
But I quit buying Monocoat 3 or 4 years ago...
Fred
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Old Monokote is pretty easy to work with, if you can dig up a 30-year old roll in grandpa's basement or whatever. The newer stuff is just awful - it barely shrinks at all, compared to Ultrakote or other options.

For small-to-midsize electrics I really like Solarfilm or Solite/Coverite Microlite. Those things shrink like mad and weigh almost nothing. Solarfilm also has some great color choices.

For larger planes or those which need to be fuelproof, I'd use Ultracote for sure. It's marginally heavier than Monokote and even though it shrinks more, I don't think it shrinks quite as tight. But it's way easier to work with.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 01:39 AM
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I prefer working with Ultracote when I have the chance, and I think my favorite color of all is the Ultracote "signal green" which is a neon yellow you can see from orbit. I bet I have put that at least partially on 20 planes. The metallic colors in Monocote are good too, deep/vibrant colors. Never put both on the same project, you can end up with a big mess.

I don't think I will ever again build a model that has to be covered in the solite stuff. I have nothing but bad luck with it, it sticks to itself with nothing more than body heat, blows through with a fart and is not opaque at all. I suppose you can paint it, but that's not what I want in a plastic/shrink film covering.

My $.02
Chris
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 11:50 AM
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Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
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Ultracoat guy here. I stopped using Monokote years ago. I tried MK again recently purely for color choice (transparent green),... did not like working with it at all. MK does not shrink well for me. Some people still like MK. I guess the trick to getting a good MK application is to have it as tight as possible, w/o any wrinkles >before< any shrinking is done. I like perfect cover jobs. Some people are content with leaving a few wrinkles here and there on the finished model. Not an option for me. So I use Ultracoat, much easier to apply, shrinks better, easy to remove if needed. Having said that, I do like Monokotes' transparent colors way better than Ultracoats'. But it's not worth the frustration of applying Monokote. Everyone has a different opinion, but I bet you see more people happier with Ultracoat than Monokote.

Fred
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 11:11 PM
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United States, ID, Burley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Step View Post
Ultracoat guy here. I stopped using Monokote years ago. I tried MK again recently purely for color choice (transparent green),... did not like working with it at all. MK does not shrink well for me. Some people still like MK. I guess the trick to getting a good MK application is to have it as tight as possible, w/o any wrinkles >before< any shrinking is done. I like perfect cover jobs. Some people are content with leaving a few wrinkles here and there on the finished model. Not an option for me. So I use Ultracoat, much easier to apply, shrinks better, easy to remove if needed. Having said that, I do like Monokotes' transparent colors way better than Ultracoats'. But it's not worth the frustration of applying Monokote. Everyone has a different opinion, but I bet you see more people happier with Ultracoat than Monokote.

Fred
https://home.comcast.net/~guilfoyle72/
have a buddy trying to cover his balsa electric glider with ultracoat and says he cant get it to stick. any tips on what he is doing wrong,using an iron to put it on.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 02:42 AM
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Australia, WA, Kalgoorlie
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Ultracoat sticks really well, and at low temperatures, once you manage to get the fandangled backing off it!

Anyways, I too have found Ultra a lot easier to apply than MK, especially around compound curves. You can do it with MK, but it takes a lot more heat and tugging to get it just right.

Now let me throw the proverbial spanner in the works:
Ultra and MK are pretty expensive, so I started experimenting with the Hobby King covering- thinking that if it were rubbish, at least it would not be an expensive mistake. This stuff is cheap as chips, comes in a fair range of colours and applies as easy as Ultracoat (even around compound curves), and at very similar temperatures. Being pretty impressed at the ease of application, I thought it would sag to hell in our Australian summer temperatures (where I live up to 48 deg Celsius/118 Fahrenheit in summer). After 9 months, I've not needed to do a tightening job yet. I now own around 70m of the stuff in various colours....

PS: The backing on the Hobby King covering, like Ultracoat, is an unadultered PITA to remove
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Last edited by wizard of odd; Feb 06, 2013 at 02:50 AM.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 08:13 AM
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United States, ID, Burley
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backing ?? LOL oh backing !
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 08:46 AM
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United States, PA, Beaver
Joined Sep 2001
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+1 for Ultracote over Monocote. I switched YEARS ago as my Monocote would shatter after a year... Not so with Ultracote
Something I didn't see mentioned is to READ the directions. Ultracote's glue will set at a lower temperature than when it starts to shrink. If I remember correctly the amount of shrink is linear to the temperature (with in the range).
When I first started using Ultracote, I tried to apply it like Monocoate, and hated it....then I read the directions. I do keep two irons going. One set to the temperature where the glue sets, and the other for some shrinkage; adjust for how much shrink I am after.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 09:22 AM
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Everett, Washington
Joined May 2003
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Fastfwd,... I assume failure to remove the backing was your trouble, and all is well now.
I've never thought Ultracoat backing was difficult to peel off at all...... The backing on Solite a real bugger to peel off. I guess the trick with it is to use a bit of scotch tape to help pull it away. That might work good for anyone having trouble on Ultracoat blacking.

Fred
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