|Nov 18, 2012, 04:14 AM|
Looking for some kit wisdom.
I have done the trainer thing. I have done the foamie warbird thing. I have done the edf thing.
I have yet to do a larger grass roots. Honest to goodness real balsa kit and I think this winter it needs to happen.
I have been pouring over all the build logs I can find and think I have to narrowed down to three ideas.
I would like to do an electric conversion with retracts flaps and gear doors.
My research seems to show good quality kits, a little heavy and all with small problems here and there.
I was hoping to find some wisdom as to my choices and or if I was missing some options entirely.
|Nov 18, 2012, 10:01 AM|
United States, FL, North Port
Joined Mar 2004
You can solve the heavy problem by getting rid of all the heavy high-density balsa they seem to include with the Top Flite kits and replace it with a lighter grade of balsa. I've seen guys do this and save 1 1/2 to 2lbs of weight over-all.
The spitfire has a narrow gear track, so it will be a little more of a hand-full in ground handling during cross-winds.
The corsair has the gull-wing, which is something different to have to deal with in the build...
All are easily converted to electric and show flap installations. Personally, I wouldn't stress to hard about having gear doors on these models, as the small tires they use, the gear doors will be dragging in the grass (assuming you fly at the typical grass runway RC club) and possibly flip the airplane over during landing.
Otherwise, they all seem to fly roughly the same (each has there small differences), so its really just a matter of personal preference on which you like most
|Nov 18, 2012, 01:52 PM|
You could always just buy a plan, then select all your own woods, materials etc. Though having a good hobby shop near by will help, as having to order everything by mail could be a pain.
Balsa is a nice medium to work with, but you don't have to give up on foam.
I had a free plan for a 72" span Spitfire that was designed for balsa and a 1.20 size engine, but I decided to build it in Depron foam and for electric power. The original balsa and IC was quoted at around the 15 lbs mark, I did it in foam for a flying weight of 7 lbs 2oz.
Flies like a dream on rails.
Scratch building from a plan does often involve a lot more head scratching, but gives greater satisfaction than assembling one of the current CNC cut jigsaw puzzle kits.
|Nov 18, 2012, 02:50 PM|
Thanks for the replys!
I was looking to another thread and saw a list of all the balsa kit company's. I was really surprised to see how many I had never heard of!
I think I want to do a cnc jigsaw puzzle kit and use that experience to dive into plan build or scratch build.
A few reason why I'm leaning towards the spit is I see a lot of corsairs at the clubs and dint want another blue plane lol. Also I was having a hard time finding rotating servo less 60 size retracts that don't cost 369! I don't think the 46-60 e flite's would be up to the task. On the spit I could just drop in the 60-120s and be good.
I love both planes...
Anybody build one or both to compair?
|Nov 18, 2012, 10:42 PM|
Turning a large glow kit into electricis generally not a good idea as you'll need to lighten it to the point where it will be qute weak.... or .... go with a large electric thrust setup and not worry about the modifying it.
|Nov 22, 2012, 07:45 AM|
United States, TX, Leander
Joined Sep 2003
I'm a corsair guy, love the TF .60 sized corsair. Mine flew many years back with a ST.90 for power. It was 10.5lbs, they fly good at that weight or under. During the build I moved the servo tray around along with the battery to balance as I built. I didnt need any led to balance. The build is pretty straight forward and the wing builds straight if you follow the instructions. I was a relative newbie at the time. It flys great, not quite trainer like but easy enough to handle if you're experienced. The first thing you will want to do when trimmed is take it up high and familiarize yourself with a corsair stall. Its really nasty and needs to be watched out for. DO NOT get too slow on landing, use about 1/4 throttle or so until you're comfortable with it. Both my corsairs tended to break left and roll over in a stall. You need lots of altitude to recover. You dont need a lot of control throw on warbirds, ~1/4" to 3/8" for elevator, all the rudder you can get (you'll need it on takeoff), and about 1/2" to 5/8" for ailerons. With too much elevator you will get a cork screw at the top of a loop (high speed stall). It will also be real pitch sensitive. Over sensitivity can also be a problem on the ailerons too. Its no fun flying with it over sensitive like that, get down fast and dont deal with it. Depending on your motors torque, its gonna want to hang a left on take off so be ready on the rudder. Dont let the flaps be too intimidating. Its pretty ingenious the way they're done.
There is another option for electric rotating retracts, www.wingspanretracts.com . They are $284 plus struts. Whatever you do, spend the money and use quality retracts. Nothing is worse than a ruined day messing with poor quality retracts, been there done that. You just get a lot of damage to repair. One other thing that some say is a characteristic with corsiars, tail waggle. Both of mine did it at full throttle (TF 64"ws, Brian Taylor 76"ws). Come back a little on the throttle and it went away. Just an annoyance.
My next corsair project is a meister.
Nothing is finer than a corsair screaming low strafing run over the runway.
|Nov 22, 2012, 01:48 PM|
My friend built the Top Flight Corsair and pretty much followed the kit down to the letter using the material from the kit except for making it electric. I had did his test flying for him. With the right power choice there was no need for him to make the airplane any lighter. Sure he could have made it lighter but it turned out the way it is. Performance is outstanding and exceeds a glow version. Unlike edwin1 mentioned on his plane my friends stall in his Corsair is a pussycat compared to other warbirds. Sometimes they just turn out good.
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