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Italy, Lombardy, Milan
Joined Nov 2012
66 Posts
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Hi Paul thanks for catching up with me! You actually made me think a lot with this call, it was very useful.
I am shaping a priority ranking now, and so (if you would like to double check with me please) I came up with this focus: All 4 servos first; ESC and specifically also BEC second; batteries third. Assuming of course that I am pushing towards a nice 2.4, no issue, GHz system like FrSky for example. I have read your thread and found it great. If you have time to highlight about your favourite servos from Hobby King, I would enjoy the hint! Can I also ask what do you think of this? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rnal_UBEC.html Alternatively, would you recommend a completely separated BEC unit? Excuse me if I focus on Hobby King all the time but I wouldn't know where else to aim for a supplier. I am in Italy, maybe you can also point me to your favourite website? Thanks! |
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I'll try to help if I can. You will need some fairly quick high torque servos for the cyclic controls, I'm using Hyperion DS20 FMD's on my cyclics and a Hyperion DS20 GCD on my tail rotor. Great servos and available from many online stores. Mine came from Robotbirds and FastLad performance here in the UK. Both stores will ship internationally. Neither I have mentioned are particularly expensive but they are not low end budget either.
For the esc I would buy one of these (I did) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html or this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html. Both have a built in SBEC, although I have disabled this function and am using and external Castle Creations BEC Pro. Although this adds to the cost, it's not a huge amount to pay for peace of mind. I'm not familiar with the ESC you have linked to so I'm afraid I cannot comment on it except for a 550 I would consider 70ampa little low as it doesn't give you much head room. Don't forget you'll also need an FBL controller. I and many others are having success with the Tarot ZYX and ZYX-S controllers. There are others available such as the recently introduced Hobbyking Robird G31 unit. The ZYX and ZYX-S units are both less expensive and work very well. Both are easy to set up using John.N.Z software located elsewhere within these pages. The Tarot units will help keep your budget low and afford you more change to spend on batteries etc. For the motor, I cannot recommend the Turnigy T600 motors highly enough, I have both the 1100KV version (in my 600) and the 1400KV version in my 550. Remember if you go for the 1400KV version you will need to buy another pinion 13 tooth to keep the head speed in check. I'm using the Zippy Flitemax 6s 5000Mah packs and also the Turnigy 6s 5000Mah packs from Hobbyking. I've had no problems with either and to date they are proving to be very reliable. I used to be a Futaba flyer years ago, with the advent of 2.4Ghz I moved across to Spektrum and despite the experience of others have never experienced any issues. Again I have no experience of the FrSky equipment so if you don't mind I'll reserve the right not to comment on it. You will also need blades, Hobbyking have a reasonable selection available but I'm using standard Align 520 D blades which are reasonably priced but they are more expensive than Hobbyking blades. I hope I have been of some help to you. I have posted basically what I have chosen, others may come along and give their preferred choices. In this hobby if you ask information from 10 people you are likely to get 10 different answers. What works well for one person may not work well for another. Paul |
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Italy, Lombardy, Milan
Joined Nov 2012
66 Posts
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Absolutely Paul, you have been very thorough and helpful, I enjoy all this! The Hyperion suggestion is great, I have also found a generic website that helps to compare specs:
www.servodatabase.com I will keep in mind all your concerns about the ESC dimensioning and the BEC split. I was already all focused towards the ZYX myself, as I read many strong reviews for it. I still have a question though: Could I use, instead, a KDS flymentor for a controller? I noticed that some people achieved good results using the flymentor AND the ZYX in series, but my point is actually, can I program the KDS flymentor to act as if it was the ZYX module, and leave the ccd camera a a second option for later? Somehow I did not understand why this is not commonly attempted because I always understood that having 3 axis gyro is all you need. What is it that I am missing? Great sunday of learning for me Thanks for the UK web shops, too!
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Joined Aug 2010
16 Posts
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Hi SuperFly,
I got almost everything I needed for my build from HobbyKing. You can see a list of what I got from HK at the bottom of this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=lvBDtSZpzZ8 I am very happy with the YEP ESC. The soft start is great. The parts that I did not get from HK are a battery strap and replament drive gears for the tail rotor. Those parts came from this E-bay vendor. http://stores.ebay.com/chunqianguan The most important part (the orange ball on the tail) is from a fishing bobber that I got from Fleet Farm. I don't think you will find any Fleet Farm stores in Italy though. |
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My turn and my .2 cents.
...Paul is correct on every point given, But here is another take. A separate BEC is not necessary. Is it a wise idea ? YES. But not necessary. I only use them on my larger builds. ( 600 + size) I'm assuming your fairly new to the hobby only because you spoke of the kds flymentor. I'll give my .2 cents on that in a sec. You can wire up your electronics no different then a 450 or 500. Separate bec not necessary. Just be sure and buy an ESC with one built in. For some rookies this is the easier route to take keeping the wiring confusion to a min for the time being. Again they are a good idea, (Its like insurance ) But not necessary. About the KDS flymentor: I have never been a fan of these. I actually think they hinder a persons progress. Keep in mind they only work about 3 feet off the ground, And are really only good to learn how to hover around. Your Sim alone will teach you this feat. In the first few days, ( again assuming your a rookie ) just use training sticks . Most ppl that install a kds end up unhappy with them and try to resale them within a month. IMO it was kinda gimmick for kds to put these out. Electronics I recommend for a 550 build. Cyclic servos x 3: Align DS615 http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALIGN-T-REX-...item5d360d8239 Tail servo: Align DS655 http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALIGN-DS655-...item1e73b38c8b ESC: Hobby wing 100amp w/built in bec http://www.ebay.com/itm/HobbyWing-Pl...728#vi-content Motor: Turnigy T-600 1100kv. ( frame mod nedded ) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...i_1100kv_.html FBL controller: I'm ignorant in this area To date I'm a flybar guy.......I very much agree with Paul in dont skimp when it comes to electronics In a larger heli. It will only let you down and leave you aggravated.
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Batteries are two Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Packs in series A good Battery set up would be a 6s 4400mah-5000mah 30c -40c. ( I like 5000mah in my 550's) Only thing that will change in the 2200mah 3s 20c will be it is now a 6s battery. 2200mah nor 20c will double. ther by giving short flight times and batterys that will easily puff At 20c if run to hard.
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The general idea is to govern your head speed by the use of a suitable sized pinion gear. This allows you to run throttle as close to 100% as possible for maximum efficiency, thus avoiding overheating the electronics and promoting early failure. I use a rotor speed calculator on my smart phone but calculators are available to download on line.
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Italy, Lombardy, Milan
Joined Nov 2012
66 Posts
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And back to you Deja, and Paul. Speaking about motors now. For what I managed to read, besides the end tip blade peak tangential velocity (also worsening while flying at full speed in forward direction, surely), dealing with subsonic limits and the like, the general, easier reference would be to have a head speed rotating below 3000 rpm.
So then with the factory gearing, pinion and kv specs I can get the correct range of selection for the motor. Yet... Yet (as I would like to explore with your aid) is it possible to achieve good power savings, so to enjoy longer flying times and smaller, lighter battery payload, by feeding lower currents at all times? I have read around that the ESC units tend to overheat when controlling, governing partial loads. So what would you suggest? A lower kv? I am keen on going in the burden of changing the pinion only if it saves current consumption (and here is where I got a bit lost in my learning today). To clarify the confusion in my mind: I would aim for instance towards a stable 2300 rpm. What would the function of the governor be then? Is it different than using the throttle control on the radio? And how can I avoid overheating the ESC while still running the motor not at full throttle (precisely: governing it)? Well, a rookie shows its status by the type of questions he asks, I must admit ![]() Many many thanks! |
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