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Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:44 PM
222 km/hr Parkjet flyer
solentlife's Avatar
Latvia, Ventspils pilsēta, Ventspils
Joined Jan 2010
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CD Ignition lead and fixed plug ....

My RCGF has the typical CDi box and fixed lead / plug ... which is a pain in size to need a large hole to pass though.

I cannot believe that everyone cuts such a huge hole to pass the plug through ... so is there any modification or way to have cable exit fuselage to get to cylinder head ? I want to have the CDi box inside fuselage this time instead of external mount as it was previous.

Second ... my original CDi box and plug lead was involved in a crash .. the plug lead was severed. I believe the box and electronics are fine - but the lead ? is there any way to repair the spark lead and plug ? Is there a joiner or does it need replacement ? What to use ? can standard car ignition lead be used ? but then of course needs to obtain the small plug ... to fit the spark plug.

??

Nigel
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 06:54 PM
I should be flying right now!
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United States, IN, Crown Point
Joined May 2010
450 Posts
You can get one of these. Maybe a local chainsaw shop has them, not sure about shipping to your location. I am replacing mine because the cap failed and there was spark inside the cap with no plug inside while testing it.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:15 AM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
The Netherlands
Joined Nov 2009
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Which plug size, which CDI?

For the glowplug size I don't see the problem, the hole needs not be that much bigger than the cable diameter.

You can change the plug-cap, so I guess, you could remove the cap, fit the cable through the bulkhead penetration, and refit the cap.
For instructions on how to remove or refit the cap: www.mvvs.nl
That is Pe Reivers' site.

I only have experience with the RCeXL unit, there the box is sealed, and you might be able to shorten the damaged lead if there is sufficient lenght remaining, but as far as I know, you cannot replace the complete lead.

You can, to the best of my knowledge, not use standard car lead, as the braiding not only shields the RF, but also provides ground for the plug, and car leads usually do not have braiding.

Brgds, Bert
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 06:36 AM
222 km/hr Parkjet flyer
solentlife's Avatar
Latvia, Ventspils pilsēta, Ventspils
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The RCGF Cdi unit is the standard Chinese sealed unit ... but the plug-cap does look same as the mvvs.nl site ...

Will ponder this more ...

Nigel
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 06:40 AM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
The Netherlands
Joined Nov 2009
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Most likely, the CDi unit is the same as well, just rebranded...
NGH and Saito use those units as well....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 16, 2014, 07:53 PM
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lovefool's Avatar
Japan
Joined Mar 2004
173 Posts
Ask Adrien to get a correct parts.

http://www.ch-ignitions.com/

love
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Old Feb 17, 2014, 02:04 PM
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http://cncengines.com/orderpage.html
maybe this will help you.
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Old Feb 17, 2014, 03:01 PM
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Tel Aviv, Israel
Joined Jul 2004
2,196 Posts
everyone says you can't splice the plug lead but i've done it quite a few times with no problem...strip about 1/4" of the insulation off each end, overlap the copper cores and solder. now you have a nice little 1/4" gap in the insulation so take teflon pipe thread tape and tightly wrap around the spliced core until the gap is completely filled and then start extending the wraps out over the insulation about 1/4" each side of the gap until you've added about 1/32" in thickness. put a piece of shrink tube over the wrap. now lap the braided shield ends over each other by about an inch and put a piece of shrink tube over them.

if the braid is copper then you can easily solder a few strands at the overlap for added security or even wrap some bare copper wire around the joint but i've always found that the shrink tube does the job just fine.
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Old Feb 17, 2014, 04:16 PM
Complete RC Idiot Savant
The Netherlands
Joined Nov 2009
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It sounds OK, to splice the HT lead like that, but whichever way you turn it, you introduce a weak(er) spot in the lead....

I do however believe, that removing the plug-cap and reattaching it (or at least replacing it with a new one), is something that the cap is suitable for by design...

Brgds, Bert
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Old Feb 18, 2014, 07:35 AM
2 Fast 2 Low & 2 Loud
scootrb4's Avatar
United States, CA, Winchester
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
My RCGF has the typical CDi box and fixed lead / plug ... which is a pain in size to need a large hole to pass though.

I cannot believe that everyone cuts such a huge hole to pass the plug through ... so is there any modification or way to have cable exit fuselage to get to cylinder head ? I want to have the CDi box inside fuselage this time instead of external mount as it was previous.

Second ... my original CDi box and plug lead was involved in a crash .. the plug lead was severed. I believe the box and electronics are fine - but the lead ? is there any way to repair the spark lead and plug ? Is there a joiner or does it need replacement ? What to use ? can standard car ignition lead be used ? but then of course needs to obtain the small plug ... to fit the spark plug.

??

Nigel

2 thoughts here - one is most people mount the ignition module under the cowl. In this case no firewall penetration is needed.

Two is if your RX has been in a crash severe enough to sever the plug lead you should consider replacing it. Patching up crashed electronics for your next build is not always a wise gamble.
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Old Feb 18, 2014, 11:03 AM
supreme being of leisure
ZAGNUT's Avatar
Tel Aviv, Israel
Joined Jul 2004
2,196 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutus1967 View Post
It sounds OK, to splice the HT lead like that, but whichever way you turn it, you introduce a weak(er) spot in the lead....

I do however believe, that removing the plug-cap and reattaching it (or at least replacing it with a new one), is something that the cap is suitable for by design...

Brgds, Bert
for sure i would never cut and splice a lead just to pass it through a small hole it just comes in handy when the lead is severed in a crash. did it a lot with the old 3W ignitions...both crashing and splicing...

the little tabs on the plug caps can also break after too many bending cycles...a bit of safety wire to tie the halves together works just fine. also, using a circlip like pictured below on the base of the cap instead of the stock spring clip makes installation and removal from the plug so much easier.

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