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Old Nov 09, 2012, 02:42 PM
I'm Addicted Already
Charlotte, NC
Joined Feb 2011
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subbed. I am waiting on the EF2000!
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 08:18 PM
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acesimmer's Avatar
United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Today is bloody cold and some snow. So with icicles on my nose I slugged across my lot to my shop. Crank the propane heater and began more work. I added the masking tape to the plug using dabs of hot glue attaching the parting planes to the plug on top of the tape. This works really good and makes a solid attachment. I then blew everything off and waxed up the planes with three coats of parting wax. I then inserted clay between the planes and the plug gaps so that I get a sharp clean edge on the mold. This also stop resin dripping on to the back side of the plug.

Once the clay is in I then re-waxed several more coats buffing to a high luster. One thing I will do next time is not to attaché the alignment dots until after the claying has they get in the way. So will mask small areas of the Pplanes off prior to waxing and claying.

I use card stock to make most of the template to cut out the parting planes then tape together. Once everything was waxed and clayed I then attached a couple of the air valves in the deeper regions to allow better removal of the mold using compressed air. I got these from the local tire shop when they cut them off customer rims.

A note here:

On this fuse plug I'm using all new resins and such. So not sure how they will release but I'm assured that they are some of the best. Its funny I could have purchased five or more foam kits and ARF's for the cost of materials for this one mold. However, I will be able to knock off quite a few models whenever I need them and can spread the materials cost over another mold or two.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 08:28 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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I have also began a side job that is to build an 6ft super scale composite E2000 Euro Fighter. I have began work on the plug templates already so when I'm further into it I will do a build thread on that also. I'm going to be looking for advice on the Typhoon due to less experience than most with the bigger twin EDF's, retracts etc. This will be the DA4 two seater so that I can have a super scaled cockpit with animated Gi Joe pilots. So any input and or suggestions please just PM me.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 09:07 PM
RC Adddict
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150 mile house B.C. Canada
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Subbed ... Fantastic
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 09:51 PM
Should've, Would've, Could've
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United States, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesimmer View Post
I have also began a side job that is to build an 6ft super scale composite E2000 Euro Fighter. I have began work on the plug templates already so when I'm further into it I will do a build thread on that also. I'm going to be looking for advice on the Typhoon due to less experience than most with the bigger twin EDF's, retracts etc. This will be the DA4 two seater so that I can have a super scaled cockpit with animated Gi Joe pilots. So any input and or suggestions please just PM me.
keep the 2 seat cockpit, everyone and their mums have made a single seat euro.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:33 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
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Yep... Two seater it is. I like the way it looks and just imagine two pilots with backlit instruments and all that detail. A larger canopy to look in to. To me it just as more presence.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 02:49 AM
Jack of all master of none
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Baltimore MD USA
Joined Jan 2011
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Very nice indeed I'm in

Bruce
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 12:26 AM
Flying 2 Fight Cancer
Elec 1800's Avatar
corona, ca
Joined Feb 2011
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Wow very nice work
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:06 AM
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United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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I'm up at 5am turning the heat on in the shop. It is bloody cold at 18 deg. So will let the shop warm up for two hours. Time to layup the first part of the mold. I'm working from front to back then will do the reverse side in the same order.

Will take a day off and let it really cure. Then will remove the rear end parting plane and add the full rear parting planes on Monday. Will then wax and PVA the plug and layup the rear section Tuesday as it is getting a bit warmer.

How I do it.......

Several coats of mold release wax
two coats of PVA release agent shot with an air brush to keep it thin
Allow PVA to dry an hour or so when temps are not very high.

I start my layups with a couple of thin tool coats then 3/4oz cloth in all the corners and sharp edges. I then place several more 2oz bits in the same areas. I then cover the entire plug with 2oz in a couple of layers to hide any possible weave bleed through. Then several layers of 6oz. Finally I use a bunch of stranded mat to build up the final strength of the mold. I wait until slightly tack between the tool coats. Once this is applied its off to the races and just keep laying up.

It takes a long time to lay up a mold. I began the actual layup at 8:30 am with the tool coat. 11am for the second tool coat. 1pm with the first layers of 3/4oz 2oz, 6oz then mat and finally completed by 7:30 pm. Once I start with the cloth it is continuous except for the odd pee break and a coffee. Having the shop at 80 deg I am able to work around the plug laying up each layer. By the time you have one layer done the other end is tacky and ready for the next. If you stop and the epoxy hardens then you would have to re-sand the entire work before starting again.

If you are wondering what those blue stickup things are it is the tire air valve stems that I previously mentioned. I can shoot compressed air deep into the inner cavities that will help break the seal and loosen the mold from the plug. This really helps in releasing the final part layup from the molds without having to bang and tweak to get the parts out.
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Last edited by acesimmer; Nov 11, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:55 AM
Now in TN!
J Morgan's Avatar
Chapel Hill, TN USA
Joined Apr 2001
24,075 Posts
Awesome ace!
I know what you mean. By the time I get done laying up a mold my feet are killing me. Numerous smoke and coffee breaks or I wouldn't last through the process.
Really enjoying it, keep the info coming.

J
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:12 AM
Just fly it!
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Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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What strand mat did you use that works well with epoxy?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 01:42 PM
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United States, NV, Fernley
Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
What strand mat did you use that works well with epoxy?
No idea. It was given to me. It may be around 40 oz weight or so. It is the stranded stuff used to build boats and kit cars with. I only use it on the outer mold surface after the cloth for beefing up. It is so thick I have to pull it apart to loosen the weave.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 01:48 PM
Dean
A10FLYR's Avatar
USA, CO, Littleton
Joined Apr 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesimmer View Post
I'm up at 5am turning the heat on in the shop. It is bloody cold at 18 deg. So will let the shop warm up for two hours. .
18 inches of snow and 18º......and where is this?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 02:39 PM
No Hangar Queens!
Maryland
Joined May 2009
1,658 Posts
So when can these be purchased? J/K seriously nice work. I always stand in awe of those who attempt this work. lots of work and patience go into this sort of thing but what an outcome!
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 02:50 PM
Just fly it!
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Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesimmer View Post
No idea. It was given to me. It may be around 40 oz weight or so. It is the stranded stuff used to build boats and kit cars with. I only use it on the outer mold surface after the cloth for beefing up. It is so thick I have to pull it apart to loosen the weave.
Interesting. Most strand mats work very poorly with epoxy because the resin doesn't break down the binder. The styrene in a polyester or vinyl ester will break down the binder very easily.
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