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Old Nov 07, 2012, 05:51 PM
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Delta DPS-835AB, Artesyn 7001138-Y000, IBM x3650 3655 835W (12.1V 69A) Power Supply

Thanks to xandrios, I also purchased two IBM 835W Server Power Supplies off eBay for $18.49 shipped and received them today. They both are working great. It took awhile to identify the connector bar (it is a Molex 45984-6143). Molex also makes a male plug (45985-6143) to fit the connector bar, but I can't find any in stock for sale. Please post if you have a source for the male plug or have some pictures of a build you've done with these. I'd also be interested in a full pinout, if anyone can provide one. Thanks.

Here is a link to xandrios's post which got me interested: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=683

You can find the inexpensive ones here: eBay: Lot of 2 IBM x3650 835W Hot-Swap Power Supply 24R2730
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Last edited by dukeofdata; Nov 08, 2012 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Added eBay reference.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Digi key lists them, but they are not in stock and min order is a 100. Have you had any luck with the pin outs?
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 09:57 PM
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hawkeye, No luck with a pin out for these. I bought some one and two ounce double sided copper PCB material at Digi-Key and am making some connectors/cables. This is the general idea:
Name: IBM 24R2730 PSU Connectors.jpg
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Description: Connectors/wire to make for IBM 24R2730 PSUs
I'll provide some detail and photos of the actual connectors when I'm finished.
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Last edited by dukeofdata; Nov 25, 2012 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:10 AM
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Ohhh, thats slick!

I don't really have the time to to do the desoldering right now but I have managed to float the DC ground in one of them (temporarly at least for now) all it takes is 3 of the 4 screws that hold the board to the case need to be isolated., I was planning on soldering directly to the board for the pinouts and output but that will take a while.
Do you think your DC out's will handle 50a?
I'm still looking for the molex plug though.

If you felt like making an extra set of the "plug in's" for the pin outs and center plug, I would certanly not mind paying for them .
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:41 AM
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Found Molex

If anybody wants the male Molex you can find it here:

http://canada.newark.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=92M3768&CMP=KNC-Y-SKU-G15-MOLEX&mckv=eIuTL5poc|pcrid|1604734997|plid|{placem ent}. But is says 63 day lead time, and they want $22 canadian each
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:39 AM
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They also appear to be available here at about the same cost and lead time: Molex 45985-6143 at Newark element14. I may order some and suffer the wait. I also tried mr.itparts (on eBay) and he could not offer any help.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 02:05 PM
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My build

Operation:
• Switch in ‘off’ position = Standby mode. Green LED is lit with AC power connected. No output.
• Switch in ‘on’ position = PSU on. Green and red LEDs are lit. 13.5v at terminal posts.

Modifications:
Removed most of the original edge connectors including all of the insulation.
Removed central Gnd/12v blade connectors. Cut down the outer Gnd blades and the outer +12v blades as these make ideal wire connection points.

The terminal posts and LEDs fit the case without any modification.
The switch required a little filing to fit.
The preset POT enables voltage adjustment from 12.1v to approx 13.5v

Wiring & soldering are not pretty, but it works great!


Parts list (Radio Shack):
274-0718 Banana Jack - dual binding post
275-0634 SPST Mini Toggle switch
276-0084 Red LED
276-0085 Green LED

Other parts:
2k preset pot (from electronics junk pile)

Pics:
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:16 PM
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Really a great build, Neil. I'd be tempted to try that myself if I had more of an electronics background. If I decide to try it, I'm sure to have many questions for you.

In the meantime, I took the simple man's approach and built some cables/connectors as I described above. Here are the +12V and GND cables. I still need to create the signal connector/cable.

Name: 100_1500CS.jpg
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Description: TOP - 12 AWG wire with EC5 connector for my ProweLab 6.

Name: 100_1499CS.jpg
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Description: BOTTOM - Wire is soldered to both top and bottom of 2 sided, 2 ounce, copper clad PCB.

I'll update this post when I have pictures of it and figure out where to get a dependable +5V.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:16 PM
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Mine is ordered and on the way. Hopefully I can compare notes shortly.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 08:02 AM
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Doesn't look like mine will get here before the weekend, but I want to start working on the case.

Can any of you give me the measurements?
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 09:27 AM
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Tempting to get these but sounds like the OVP keeps you from taking the voltage above 13v. I'm looking to get a little higher then that if possible.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 09:53 PM
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I converted a couple of these today for 24V operation. I pulled the two PCB mounting screws, drilled out the cladding and reinstalled the screws with a nylon washer between the PCB and the lugs. They put out 24.11V. I built a pair of DSP-600PB at the same time since they all arrived today. The DSP-600PB set are for a friend after he say the pair in my kit. By comparison the DSP-600PB puts out 25.7V and is way quieter. Is there a pin that controls the fan speed on DSP-835AB?
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 02:13 PM
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OK, I got a chance to test the DSP-835AB this morning. Not bad performance. I hooked up two 6S 6000mAh Nanotechs to the PL8 so I could charge at 40A, 25V, 1000W output. The PL8 pulled 47.34A, 24.14V & 1143W from the DPS-835AB. The DPS-835AB pulled 12.41A from the 118V household outlet.

For connections, I fanned the stranded wires the the end of the 10ga wire and filled it with solder then flattened and trimmed to fit snuggly in the terminals. At the 47 amp output the connections didn't even get warm. The output voltage was very steady at 24.6V. I think I am good to go.

I have attached some pics taken during the test.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:57 AM
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Help with IBM x3650 3655 835W in series

I'm going to run my PSU's as 12v and 24v, so I know I will have two leads coming off the "+" side of the 12v PSU. One lead to be positive for 12v usage and the other to the negative side of the 24v PSU. My question is, is it feasible for me to fan & strand with 10 gauge wire with solder to fit snuggly in the molex connector? The reason I ask is because this wire will sometimes be jiggled from being plugged and unplugged when used as the positive lead to the charger wow, i hope someone understands this! lol

Also, It doesn't look like still4given crossed pins 3 & 4, im curious how he starts the PSU's? did he cross 3 & 4 from the inside? To float the dc ground on the 24v PSU all i have to do is replace the pcb board metal screws with plastic screws and use nylon washers between the pcb and metal case? seems straight forward, but what is "drilling out the cladding"?

Hey Neil, I really like your setup, if you or anybody has any photos or directions on how your mods were done could you please post them.. would be much appreciated

Thank you all
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Last edited by wayda; Feb 12, 2013 at 02:43 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayda View Post
I'm going to run my PSU's as 12v and 24v, so I know I will have two leads coming off the "+" side of the 12v PSU. One lead to be positive for 12v usage and the other to the negative side of the 24v PSU. My question is, is it feasible for me to fan & strand with 10 gauge wire with solder to fit snuggly in the molex connector? The reason I ask is because this wire will sometimes be jiggled from being plugged and unplugged when used as the positive lead to the charger wow, i hope someone understands this! lol

Also, It doesn't look like still4given crossed pins 3 & 4, im curious how he starts the PSU's? did he cross 3 & 4 from the inside? To float the dc ground on the 24v PSU all i have to do is replace the pcb board metal screws with plastic screws and use nylon washers between the pcb and metal case? seems straight forward, but what is "drilling out the cladding"?

Hey Neil, I really like your setup, if you or anybody has any photos or directions on how your mods were done could you please post them.. would be much appreciated

Thank you all
I can't speak for others but I think the way that I created a "plug" by fanning out the stranded wire and then filling it with solder works well. Whether or not it will eventually corrode and lose some of its connectivity, time will tell. Because you can "adjust" the thickness by adding more solder it is easy to get a good fit in the slot. I did connect pins 3&4 inside when I had it apart to do the DC ground lift. I stuck my flat tipped solder iron in between the # 3&4 blades until the fan spun up and then flowed in some solder. I tried filing the blades and soldering but it didn't work I had to get the solder to flow down to the connection at the PCB. It wasn't really that difficult. I was too lazy to remove the whole PCB so I could get to the bottom of the PCB to solder it there.

As for the drilling out the cladding, the PCB has through cladding on those ground lug locations. By drilling out the mounting hole, it takes the cladding out of the hole so the trace on the top of the hole is not connected to the ground trace on the bottom of the PCB and there is no cladding on the inside of the hole that can make contact with the screw. I didn't have any nylon screws that would fit and the little metal screws that come in the unit are too short to grab if I used nylon washers on top and bottom of the PCB. By drilling out the cladding I was able to just use one nylon washer under the PCB and then use the original screw to tighten it back down. If you use nylon screws then you only need the one nylon washer and don't need to drill. If you do choose to drill out the cladding, be sure to place some metal under the PCB while drilling so you don't mess up the threads in the lug.

Here is a question for those who know how the routing works. When I measured the three output slots, I get +12V from the ground slot to the center slot, from the center slot to the right slot and from the ground slot to the right slot. I used the ground slot and the far right slot. Can I use the ground slot and the center slot for a 12V output? Is it the same current output as the far right slot?

Thanks, Terry
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Last edited by still4given; Mar 20, 2013 at 09:15 AM. Reason: typos
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