jstern429,

This is the motor that I'm using on the 36" Shrike:
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...h-16%29/Detail

I'm running a 9x6 prop with 3 cell lipo's ... plenty quick!!! I'm going to order some 4 cell batteries, (maybe Santa will bring me 3) and go with an 8x6. I have old Lanier Kit with no landing gear. Picturers are here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...+shrike&page=3

post 33

Merry Christmas!!!! and Shrikes for everyone.... Andy I promise to get a vidio up soon.

Nick

Originally Posted by jstern429

Well I thought I had the placement of the landing gear in about the same place as your's on the 35" one but the wing rib placement might be different. I am planning on using either an older Turnigy C3536 1450 or the newer SK3536 1400 with a 8x6 or an 8x8 APC prop. I have had both motors on the older Striker and with the bigger prop and 4 cells it sounds great and screams so it will be interesting to see how the Shrike does. I will post more pictures as I get more done. Jeff

I have 6 ribs in my wing, you have 5 in yours. Compare to this photo http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=3261117

I'm certain mine are shorter. I'll try to remember to measure them when I get home tonight.

Andy

Nick, I looked at your set-up in the one build thread and that is what made up my mind on one of the two motors I have. Also seeing that they have both been on the older Strykers I kind of have an idea on how they perform.

Andy, didn't realize there was 6 ribs in your wing. At the time I was installing the landing gear I could only remember that the gear was in the two spaces closest to the fuse. Jeff

The longer gear won't matter, you're retracting it to fly!!

Andy

I'll bet Santa has a red and green Shrike with gold stripes.... if not he should check this thread and get on it....

Nick

I just waiting for the scale detailing to start.

I don't know if this is worth mentioning, but my Shrike on hand launch does a left roll immediately and it is something to consider. As soon as a little speed is reached it behaves very nicely. I’m thinking the roll is due to torque and p factor since the launch is always at full power. I launch at about 45 degrees nose up and with my power setup it will climb and accelerate at this attitude. The left roll is very easily controlled with aileron but you do need to be aware of it. Things happen quickly in the world of Shrikes.

Nick

I had that trouble with my 24" one, and was why I put the money and weight into retracts.

Andy

Originally Posted by nickeast

I don't know if this is worth mentioning, but my Shrike on hand launch does a left roll immediately and it is something to consider. As soon as a little speed is reached it behaves very nicely. I’m thinking the roll is due to torque and p factor since the launch is always at full power. I launch at about 45 degrees nose up and with my power setup it will climb and accelerate at this attitude. The left roll is very easily controlled with aileron but you do need to be aware of it. Things happen quickly in the world of Shrikes.

Nick

Could you use a "launch" flight mode that has an appropriate amount of opposite aileron dialed in and then as soon as it picks up speed you switch back to a "normal" (aileron neutral) flight mode? I've done this with a small EDF F9F Panther that has the same issue. I don't necessarily take all of the initial roll out, but enough to make it gentle and give me a little more time to react if I momentarily fumble a bit getting my fingers to the right spot on the Tx after launch.

My Shrike with the 46AX has no roll issues on hand launch, as long as I let it go directly into the wind. Must be because it's turning 15000 + on the ground with a 10x6 prop, so there's not much torque. Also, it accelerates really quickly when I let it go. (Underhand toss, almost vertical.)

I do have this issue with my hand launched Outlaw, by Extreme Flight. It's electric (25 size) turning a 10x6 on 4S, around 11000 rpm, and is pretty torquey. One thing that helped a lot was I put a little over 1/2 oz of lead in the right wing tip. (Counter torque weighting described in that Model Aviation article a couple years ago.) I still bank it to the right a little before I let it go or it will roll left on release. The more into the wind I can get it on launch, the better it behaves. I experimented with a little right elevon trim on launch, but it didn't seem to help much. Right elevon takeoff trim does work with another of my deltas, tho, the "Bullet", my own design fuse with retractable gear using the wings from a Mikulasko "Arrow". However, if I have a long, smooth runway and can get up proper takeoff speed, she doesn't need it. (The issue with small, light airplanes that ROG is that they hit bumps and become airborne before there's enough airspeed to fly well.) That one also has counter torque weight in the wing tip.

I'm building a Dan Savage F-4 Phantom right now, 90mm EDF on 6s, and I'm thinking about putting some weight into the right wingtip. (Span is only 33", so it might be necessary.) I'm conflicted about it, tho, as half of my delta wing aircraft didn't like counter torque weighting at all, wanting to drop the right wing during flare for landing. (Two Laddie Mikulasko "Arrows", one glow, one electric.)

I built a Shrike 10 from the kit a long time ago, and powered it with an Astro 020 on a 2000 NiMh pack. It was turning a 5.5x4 at around 20000 and that was all too much for the airframe. Always had trouble getting sufficient airspeed for control before it would drop the left wing and auger in. It only flew a couple times before it got so decrepit I had to scrap it. Combination of too much torque and wing loading, I guess. Same airplane with a 2000 3S lipo would have flown great, I'll bet. I might try another one some day as the plans are available.

One thing I learned early on about hand launches- never have a neckstrap on the Tx. Mine got between my fingers and the stick right after launch (once)and I nearly crashed my beloved Sig Wonder.

Keep on Shrikin!

Guys,
I made the comment only as a comment.... in case somebody was new to the World of Shrike and wasn’t aware of this little characteristic, as I mentioned the plane accelerates so fast the roll is easily controlled as the speed builds. A flight mode would probably be more of a problem because as soon as flying speed is reached it doesn't need anything. As far as balance goes, I balance all my planes so they are equal about the CG. “Heavy” wings create other problems in flight. Out of balance planes will never fly as well as they could. I too, use the underhand toss for launch… to me it seems more controlled.

I would really like to hear more about the “Arrow”

The Arrow was slicker than snot!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1553735/tm.htm

Andy

Just checked out the "Arrow" .... wow.... I have plans for the "Northstar" and I built this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=922465

A "Polaris" foamy and it was amazing...

Bob, I too have a slight addiction for the Sig Wonder.... Do you have a plan for one?

Andy any new pictures?

Nick

The Arrows were a 10 year journey for me. Lots of problems with the design, but corrected they are my favorite sport birds, 46AX glow and Turnigy 46 electric, and the sister ground bird, the Bullet. If anyone decides to build one, PM me and I'll send you a list of mods. The plans come from rcmplans.com, and a short kit from http://lazer-works.com/

Nick: the Wonder is still available as a kit from sigmfg.com Under a hundred bucks last time I checked. Great value, but PM me if you do one, as it's easy to get the wing dowel blocks upside down and lose the wing in flight as a result. (Ask me how I know)

Originally Posted by nickeast

Just checked out the "Arrow" .... wow.... I have plans for the "Northstar" and I built this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=922465

A "Polaris" foamy and it was amazing...

Bob, I too have a slight addiction for the Sig Wonder.... Do you have a plan for one?

Andy any new pictures?

Nick

i have a sig wonder nib