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Old Mar 04, 2013, 06:46 PM
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Phil and BB thanks for the compliment. The camera hides a few flaws, however I am going to do a little more on the surface patching and then spray a thin second coat on the parts that are going to stay “crème” color. Then some more prep to the areas that are going to receive the trim colors.

Phil if you look at this picture you will see that the tip rib has an under camber. I believe that was a mistake in the die that cut the rib. Theoretically it could cause wash in and tip stalling; however that airfoil is so thick I doubt it. It would be wise to straighten that out in future models.


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Description: Note slight under camber at tip rib
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 12:08 AM
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This morning I did a close up inspection of the plane in the morning light and noticed that the left side of the fuse had some show through from underneath. In addition I noticed a few blemishes and tiny dings so I decided to fill them and lightly sand the airframe with 360 grit. At this point I switch over to “White Putty”; it is the same as the green just easier to paint over because of its color. I came home from work at lunch today and puttied the dings in the fuse, so they would be ready to sand this evening. I also had some left over catalyzed paint in the refrigerator which I had to use today or throw away.


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Description: White putty good stuffName: 011.jpg
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Description: After sanding I re-shot a second thin coat, less than four oz. to do the entire fuseName: 012.jpg
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Description: This is the side that had show through
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Description: The bottom of the fuse was also light on paint, now it is covered nicelyName: 014.jpg
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Description: This paint is now starting to look really even and smooth

This is point that I get excited because it really starting to look good!
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 01:41 AM
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Your workroom looks like an operating room....get some clutter going for goodness sake
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 10:56 AM
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I am really blessed with a great workshop, you should see it when its clean
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 03:35 PM
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I think you spend more time cleaning the shop than building! I guess that is a good thing, but everytime I clean the workroom, I need another month just to find what I KNEW was sitting right there
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 04:30 AM
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Australia, NSW
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Well I finally got mine in the air today. Two flights, my first in nearly 30 years. I won't say it all came rushing back, but there was no sense of panic and I felt pretty much in control doing circuits of the airfield.

The Navajo flew nicely and there were no surprises. It actually seemed quite nimble. The OS 46 provides almost too much power, with most of the flying done on one third throttle - and that with the engine running very rich. I'll be looking at a smaller prop for next week.

My instructor did a couple of loops with consumate ease, and it was very willing to turn with mininal stick input. Mine needs a lot of elevator through the turn because it's pretty nose heavy and has a big tank.

Feels good to have flown it and have it back in one piece.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 03:04 PM
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Congrats Phil! I know the feeling.....but are you knees still shaking?
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Congratulations on the successful maiden flight. It seems like a good design for relearning your skills. Today was supposed to be the day I flew my bird off the lake. Alias it did not come to be I obviously did not finish in time, NOW my new date is April 8th. I did not get any new work done around the plane last week and I have a number of meetings and responsibilities this week; however I expect big things to happen the week after and I am sure I will finish this thing for April. Stay tuned , this not one of those threads were the builder sundenly dissapears and leaves everyone hanging. Stay tuned.

Again congrats to Phil!
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 01:53 PM
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Funny, I remember typing a post congratulating Phil but I don't see it. Anyway, good show!

Nice to know the .46 is more than enough. What prop? I doubt that a smaller prop will be your answer. Might want less pitch, even if it means going to an inch larger diameter. Then the plane will fly slower and land slower.

Looking forward to more reports! And pics!

Jim
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 07:10 PM
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Sorry I meant less pitch on the prop. Gone down to the minimum now, which I think is a 11x5.
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Old Mar 13, 2013, 05:44 AM
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Looking forward to the next installment GLG. Keep the aileron throws to a minimum for starters is about the only setup advice I can give from my lack of experience. Mine seems to drop into a turn with a twitch of the stick, and I have my throws cut back quite a lot on the radio.
Other than that it flies in a straight line happily hands free.
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Old Mar 20, 2013, 01:56 PM
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Well I got caught up in the rigors of day to day life and put my plane aside for a bit; then inertia set in and seemed hard to start up again. Last night I had about an hour or less to work and I started on the next step then I did not want to stop but had to; at least I am excited about finishing again. Funny at first you can’t get going, and then you can’t stop.

I believe I am ready for the trim colors; however I have to do a few things first, namely finish the rear windshield plug and pull a rear windshield and install it, install switch and route it to the surface, paint windows, glue windscreens and feather in, then spray the trim colors.

I put a little time into the floats patching the last of the dings and pinholes. White putty is the right stuff for the job; like the green just easier to cover. My previous tube was dried out so I bought a fresh tube.


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Description: New tube of White PuttyName: SAM_0566.jpg
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Description: Filling final nicks and pinholes filled in.  At the bottom of the picture is crankshaft of a Super Tigre G2300 mounted to my Pica North American T-28 Trojan.  It’s about half done and needs to get back to the building board after the Navajo is finished.


I set the floats aside to dry and started the Rear wind screen blank


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Description: First tape off rear fuse area where windscreen will coverName: SAM_0569.jpg
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Description: Made pattern off plans and transferred it to 20 thousands plastic using French curve.  Cut out with scissors.


Well it is dinner time and that s it for now next step is stack pieces of 3/8 sheet, four of them and sand to rear wind screen shape.
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Old Mar 25, 2013, 07:31 PM
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Australia, NSW
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Come on GLG, you're nearly there man!

By the way this is more of an advanced trainer than a beginner's model. Pretty fast for me and quite quick in the turns.
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Old Mar 26, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement; life has sort of re-prioritized my responsibilities. Still dripping along. No new progress yet.
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Old Apr 01, 2013, 12:35 AM
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Well guys I am back on the job. I know I am not supposed to take breaks but I get distracted by new projects and other things. I have been researching a couple of new projects 5 or 6 to be more exact; 5 Scale Warbirds and a Stinson Reliant. I also have a 40% finished Trojan T-28. The first post is a minor two night distraction. It is a medium size foam Beast biplane it is distributed by Nitro models and is called a “Peaks”. I won this one at an auction for $80; that’s less than ½ price. It was brand new in the box and came complete ready to build with all the hardware, a screw driver and even a tube of foam safe glue. The only parts I had to add were the flight pack and a receiver. Wanted to fly it today but the flying sight was closed for Easter.


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Description: The “Peaks” ready to fly!


Getting back to the Navajo the next order of biz is to make the rear windscreen, which means fabricating a blank.


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Description: Using the tracing from the plastic base I made four patterns with a French curveName: 003.jpg
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Description: I transferred the patterns to 3/8 inch balsaName: 004.jpg
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Description: A quick trip to the band saw yields my parts
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Description: Parts stacked in place, tack glued inName: 006.jpg
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Description: Transition steps are filled in with lengths of triangle stockName: 007.jpg
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Description: Slap on a coat of Bondo and carve away
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Description: A second coat of Bondo and some sanding.  Things are starting to take shape.Name: 009.jpg
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Description: Third coat of Bondo and the final shape is close enough


At this point the plug can be removed from the plane and finished. The blank needs to be extended at least 1/8 to a ¼ inch on the back and sides so there will adequate overlap on the part for gluing.


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Description: Additional wood added to back and sides of plug blank.  Green putty to cover seamsName: 02.jpg
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Description: More green putty to fill nicks and low spotsName: 03.jpg
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Description: Blank sanded out with 120 paper
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Description: A coat of finishing resin all over the blank


Tomorrow I will be able to sand the blank and prime it. Onward
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