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Old Jan 22, 2013, 12:06 PM
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I really don’t want this project to stall; so I thought it was important to put a least a little time in on this last night, even though I am a little under the weather. I rough sanded the floats to square up all the edges, sheeting and stringers. Now all that is left is to sheet the bottom add the transom and nose and then finish and paint. There is some additional hardware but I want to get to glassing and painting.

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Description: Bench cleaned up again and everything squared up ready to sheetName: 2.jpg
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Description: Plans call for 1 ½ oz weight in nose of each float to assist in balancing plane.  Non lead weights from Harbor FreightName: 3.jpg
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Description: Don’t want this rolling around inside later, so I buried them in epoxy
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Description: Sheeted the bottom aft of both floats and the bottom forward of one.  Tons of sanding so I will clean up and start again with fresh sanding block


To make these floats look right I believe I need to spend some time filling them with resin and micro balloons before I do my final shaping.

Interesting construction the top and sides are all balsa, while the internal and bottom sheet are all plywood. Gluing all that plywood calls for a lot of thick CA and accelerator; I have been pouring the accelerator in to cheap plastic cosmetic spray bottles. After a day or so the CA accelerator seems to foul the spray mechanism of these bottles. Does any body know a way around this or a type of bottle that wont foul?
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 07:01 PM
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Okay no help on the spray bottle problem. Went to a cosmetic store and purchased a couple of cheap bottles that I empty out after each use however the spring mechanism does not always recover after it dries out. Wanted to finish the floats so I can sand them out and glass them. Started by finishing the framing and sanding, then fill the nicks and sand again, then fill the filler and sand again,long process

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Description: Front sheeting finished and transoms cemented.  Note right float has four holes for the water rudderName: Image00002.jpg
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Description: Nose blocks cemented onName: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Rough shaping of the nose block, a little filling requiredName: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Many nicks, dings and holes filled with resin and micro balloons.  Sad last of the brown balloons from Prather


Okay now back to the wing while things set for awhile

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Description: While micro balloons set up went to mounting wing.  Pretty boring watching the trammeling process, suffice it to say everything is lined up and drilled out for ¼’-20 nylon bolts.  Great plane brand require 3/8” hole and insertion instructions are in correName: Image00008.jpg
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Description: Decided to pre-tap insert hole, determining thread pitchName: Image00009.jpg
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Description: Tap used to thread holeName: Image00010.jpg
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Description: Brass insert now seats
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Description: Micro Fastener brand use smaller hole and have correct seating instructions on package.  I am going to reinforce the right one with resin and micro balloons.Name: Image00013.jpg
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Description: All three inserts in place, front and rear fairing blocks cemented to wing mounting platform; they will be shapes later.  Fairings also support front and rear wind shieldsName: Image00014.jpg
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Description: Front view of front fairingName: Image00016.jpg
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Description: Monokote Temporarily applied to under surface of wingName: Image00017.jpg
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Description: Coat of resin and micro balloons added to wing saddle and then wing bolted down in to place


Now back to the floats again

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Description: Floats rough sanded, I cut the box top to make a quick cradle to hold them upright to assist with stabilization when I apply the glassName: Image00018.jpg
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Description: Black dots on float indicating sub areas where more micro balloons need to be added
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Description: Second coat of resin and micro balloons

Everything needs to set and then be sanded out. God time for some lunch!
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 03:03 PM
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Spent last night sanding floats out up to #400 grit, preparing for covering with glass. I also sanded the wing saddle areas.


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Description: Wing seated on fuse in a thick mix of resin and micro balloons.  Resin seated time to crack wing looseName: Image00002.jpg
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Description: Wing re-seated in saddle after removal of MonoKote, saddle sanded to blend in to wingName: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Wing fits tight in saddle
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Description: View from different angleName: Image00005.jpg
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Description: Other side just as good!


Now it time to glass the floats, I actually did the transom plates last night but no pictures


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Description: ¾ oz glass draped over floats, I am going to cover tops and side with one piece eachName: Image00007.jpg
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Description: All the materials I need at the readyName: Image00008.jpg
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Description: First float glassed and squeegee.  Note 8 bolts in deck to prevent resin from seeping in to threads of blind nuts
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Description: Second float glassed with resin not yet hit with squeegeeName: Image00010.jpg
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Description: Both floats finished and curing

Good time to take a break and run some Sunday errands Angel that I am
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 12:07 AM
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Back from running errands and decided to get in some more glassing. When a project gets to this point it really takes an extra effort to get it done timely instead of it running on and on. I found that glassing is a matter of moving a around and flipping things over as soon as the catalyst sets the resin. By the way I use a the smelly polyester resin instead of epoxy; why you may ask well I can do the entire bottom of both floats and one side of the dorsal fin with less than ½ oz. For some reason it would take a lot more epoxy it just dose not wet out as easily. I also think polyester sands out easier. There I said it game on

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Description: Look inside the fuselage after the wing is cracked off prior to sandingName: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Aft fairing sanded and feathered into trailing edge of wingName: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Bottom of floats with glass laid out ready for resin; note the difference between the texture of float on left wrinkly and float on right smooth.  Float on right K&B glass float on Left Hobbico glass.  Draw your own conclusion.
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Description: Floats resined and squeegee out.

Good days work
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 08:46 AM
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Thanks for the info on the source of the floats.

I hope you are using a mask to filter out those chemicals in the air. I agree the polyester works well, but I think it is quite toxic and you don't want to breathe it.

Jim
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard bait View Post
Thanks for the info on the source of the floats.

I hope you are using a mask to filter out those chemicals in the air. I agree the polyester works well, but I think it is quite toxic and you don't want to breathe it.

Jim


Jim,
You make a great point about polyester resin; I have seen world renowned experts showing polyester and fiberglass cloth application in instructional videos using NO precautions. All kidding aside I went online this morning and researched the toxicity of polyester resin, styrene monomer and acetone. The acetone is not so bad but the fumes from the styrene are quite toxic and add up over time, and they may be carcinogenic (cancer causing) as well. After getting some input from a surfboard builder on proper precautions I should be okay using my nose and mouth respirator with the deposable canister filters. One should replace filters if you can smell any fumes with mask on.


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Description: Tight fitting respiratorName: 2.jpg
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Description: Another view of the respiratorName: 3.jpg
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Description: Replacement filters, should be changed out at least every 6 months or sooner if you can smell fumes.


I use this when ever I spray paint or primmer. Also should use fan to blow out fumes and stay out of shop for at least four hours after application. It is also wise to not touch the uncured resin; fortunately I have a good source of cheap disposable gloves as well. Really good to be mindful of the dangers of chemicals lets all be safe.

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Description: Cheap latex gloves, go online and buy them by the box for .00 to .00 for 50 pairs


If you can’t afford or find the proper PPE (Personal Protection Equipment), perhaps you are better off using epoxy to saturate your glass cloth.

While we are on the subject wear a thick filtered paper mask when sanding fiberglass; the particles are also irritating if not toxic to the lungs. I like to have fun but we all want to live to tell about it. Finally I found out last year about a new product called liquid gloves; I am yet to try it but I plan on purchasing some soon and using it all the time that I am building. Plenty of CA has touched this skin over the years.


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Description: Thick paper masks from Home Depot, Lowes or paint supply store.Name: 8.jpg
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Description: The actual liquid gloves


I guess this post is sort of a service announcement; god knows after high school in the 70’s and the Pink Floyd concerts I am still detoxing.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 04:17 PM
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Good show! I felt rotten and got a sinus headache after using the stuff in a shop with the door and windows open, but no mask. A few months later I developed a tumor (benign) in a sinus cavity. I think it was a coincidence but I would never use it again without good protection. Actually it left me with such an aversion to it that I haven't used it since.

Jim
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 04:36 PM
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Jim,
Sorry to hear about your health problems; however I am very happy for you that things turned out to be benign. As you can see in the pictures above my floats are in the background so I really do use the protective equipment. I suppose you can run out to the backyard and spray paint a dash board bezel out of a can while you hold your breath; however I always wear a mask when I spray. I also have MEK, Toluene, Gasoline, Nitromethane and all sorts of other chemicals in my shop. We really owe it to ourselves and love ones to be careful. I notice that my memory isn’t what it used to be. I wonder why? Okay kids learn from this, and us old guys too.

Gary
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 12:29 AM
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Okay I have my plan to push to the finish; attach the tail, test mount the floats and hook up water rudder, complete fore & aft bottom sheeting followed by fin rudder and top sheeting. That will take me to the point where it is all sanding and finishing.

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Description: Mounted wing to give reference for stabilizer alignmentName: Image00006.jpg
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Description: Clamp tail in place and begin to verify alignmentName: Image00002.jpg
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Description: Port trail edge corner 87.2 cm
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Description: Starboard edge corner 87.2 cmName: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Left tip 1 13/16”Name: Image00005.jpg
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Description: Right tip 1 13/16’

Tail glued on with thick CA and will be finalized with a fillet of thick micro balloons and resin inside and out. Set aside the fuse and tail and went back to the floats


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Description: Excess glass trimmed off floats and entire surface scuffed with scotch brite pad to remove wax residueName: Image00008.jpg
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Description: Flow coat of resin brushed on top and sidesName: Image00009.jpg
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Description: Nose of float covered with a wet coat of resin
Hopefully I will be able to flow coat the bottom of the float tomorrow night.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 12:38 AM
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Interesting photos. I've just spent the last 10 months building one of these from old plans I had lying around. Just about ready for its maiden.
They certainly do chew threw a lot of wood. I had the devil of a time getting modern hardware to fit inside the nose. Had to rig up a fake firewall for the nosewheel and scratch build a flat engine mount from a plywood/aluminium lamination.
Your radio installation is interesting. I built a plywood box for the battery up front under the COG, then placed all 3 servos across the fuselage right behind it. They fit beautifully.
This is the first model I've built for about 30 years so there were a lot of mistakes made, but I'm reasonably pleased with the outcome, particularly the amount I've learned through trial and error. Looking forward to seeing it in the air and getting on with the next project.
These plans are as rare as hens' teeth - it's a shame you sliced yours up. I'm intending to have mine digitised and get them up on the net before they turn to dust.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 12:08 AM
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Hey Phil thanks for following, you should post a picture of your finished almost finished Navajo. If I had to cut all the ribs and so fourth I know this thing would take at least twice as long to get to this point. I usually do not slice up plans but I did this time because I wanted to do different parts of the plane simultaneously. However if it makes you feel better I did save all the pieces if needed later.

I probably could have put all three servos straight across at the CG however I did not think about it at the time. I like to have plenty of room for pushrods and servo arms to clear so I only put two in back and one up front. I like to have my throttle servo pushrod have as short a run as possible.

I constructed the nose area exactly to plans and have posted some pictures of the way it goes together. I used SHMS instead of the wood screws bolts they supplied but fundamentally I did not change any of the construction, with exception of the front hatch hold down where I incorporated magnets. I believe I could use the nose wheel wire supplied and attach a new nylon arm and make it work; however this is only going to be a seaplane.

Should it come out a little tail heavy I left room under the tank to accomodate the battery pack. I also cut an opening in the front bulkhead early on and confirmed that it could pass the battery.

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Description: Front hatch removed original fuselage crutch with blind nuts countersunk to allow engine plate to sit flush on topName: Image00002.jpg
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Description: Plywood engine plate and engine bolted to placeName: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Front hatch in place with cut out for needle valve adjustment wire.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 03:01 PM
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I left off flow coating the floats with resin.


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Description: Bottom of float flow coated


A few more adjustments and I can get this airplane together. If build to the plans one runs in to a design problem. The rear fuselage and tail post do not allow the fin to seat on the stab as proposed on the drawings. First the rear of the fuse needed to be opened with a razor saw on the cut lines. Then the top sheeting needs to have the central slot extended back. After adjustments all the parts dry fit.


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Description: Proposed cut linesName: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Top sheeting halves joined, they required a lot of sanding to make them levelName: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Slot opened up to backName: Image00005.jpg
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Description: Good dry fit


Next I had to mount plane to floats in order to solder front float attachment modification. Earlier I speculated that the prop would interfere with the float if I did not modify the main gear attachment. My expedient solution was to fabricate a spacer block of balsa and ply laminate.


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Description: Spacer block laminationName: Image00007.jpg
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Description: Spacer block bolted to fuselage


Turns out when I mounted the plane on the floats I had enough clearance with out the spacer. There went an hours worth of work?


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Description: Plane mounted on main floats using landing gearName: Image00010.jpg
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Description: Had to fabricate front attachment out of 5/32 wire.  Raw cut endName: Image00011.jpg
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Description: Wire after a minute on the grinding wheel


Found a great product for soldering wires together. Below is the procedure I used to solder up the front attachment. Instead of wrapping the steel music wire with bare copper wire I used pre-tinned bus wire from Radio Shack. Works great!


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Description: Wires cleaned with Emory cloth ready to solderName: Image00013.jpg
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Description: Tinned copper bus wire from Radio ShackName: Image00014.jpg
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Description: Clamp wires in to final position
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Description: Solder joint wrapped with bus wireName: Image00016.jpg
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Description: Brush on acid flux and apply heat with map gas torch; upper joints    soldered lower joint soldered and polished


Time to align plane on floats and connect up water rudder.


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Description: Alignment jigs, levels and inclination meters attachedName: Image00018.jpg
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Description: Front gear wrapped in correct position, wings at positive 1 ½ degrees, float at 0Name: Image00019.jpg
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Description: Water rudder assembled and attached to transom of right float
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Description: Another view of water rudderName: Image00021.jpg
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Description: Proposed position of water rudder pushrod conduit


There is a lot of work to do to make sure water rudder pushrod does not flex when it is actuated; but after a few hours I got an idea that I am going to go with. Time to finally button this thing up


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Description: Lower tank sheeting block in placeName: Image00023.jpg
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Description: Front sheeting glued in up to landing gearName: Image00024.jpg
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Description: aft bottom sheeting halves
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Description: Plywood rudder pushrod supportName: Image00026.jpg
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Description: Lower sheeting cemented on water rudder pushrod exit routed out bottomName: Image00027.jpg
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Description: Fin and top sheeting cemented to place.


Now comes the home stretch the entire airframe needs rough sanding and shaping, followed by with micro balloon and resin fillets and patches. The next step after that will be fitting the front and rear wind screens the ¾ oz. fiberglass and resin finish on the fuse.


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Description: Finished airframe, fuselage, wing and dorsal finName: Image00029.jpg
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Description: Oops almost forgot airframe and floats


Onward to the finish; wanted this plane finished TODAY for its maiden; however I am now shooting for Monday March 4th. So far not bad for the weekend
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 04:52 PM
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Really nice work and good photo documentation. It makes me wonder about the guy who framed up the model I have now back in 1969 and how he dealt with the various problems.

Can you explain the advantage of the pre-tinned wire? You still have to tin the music wire, right?

Are you using the same angle on the floats as the way the plane sits on the ground? I think it was set up to be slightly nose down on the ground to "pin" it down and reduce bouncing.

Jim
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard bait View Post
Really nice work and good photo documentation. It makes me wonder about the guy who framed up the model I have now back in 1969 and how he dealt with the various problems.

Can you explain the advantage of the pre-tinned wire? You still have to tin the music wire, right?

Are you using the same angle on the floats as the way the plane sits on the ground? I think it was set up to be slightly nose down on the ground to "pin" it down and reduce bouncing.

Jim
Well a couple of things. The pre tinned copper wire has been dipped in molten solder; so it actually appears silver in color. The advantage is when heat is applied every bit of the wrap wire is immersed in molten solder, one does not have to rely on capillary action If you sand and clean the music wire struts you do not have to tin the struts. I just wrapped the wire tightly, brushed on some liquid acid flux, heated with a torch and touched the entire bundle with some silver solder. I will enclose a close up shot of the joint later today when I get home. You will see that solder flowed and adhered to the music wire to music wire junction. . If you get a roll and try it I think you will be quite pleased.

As far as the wing relationship to floats goes, I set the Angle of attack of wing +1.5 degrees when the float deck is level to the floor. The float step is ½ inch behind plan CG. The float kit indicates that this is the initial set up. Also Great Planes recommends after this step up to add nose weight until to move the CG forward an additional 3/8”, this will most likely cause the plane to sit correctly in the water.

The way I set up my front strut mount I can change the angle of the wing a full 6 degrees from plus 3 to minus 3 degrees. I am certaintly not expert at this type of set up but I am very encouraged with the way this coming together. I should have a new post tonight
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 06:19 PM
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This is the picture I promised; it is a close up a fresh solder joint. I did not pre tin the large diameter music wire, but I was still able to achieve good bonding to the wire.


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Description: Good solder flow


Put in a few hours of work


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Description: Fuel proofed the inside of engine and tank compartment with Zap epoxyName: 03.jpg
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Description: Rough sanded nose and fuse to shape, time more filling and more sandingName: 04.jpg
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Description: Front wind screen preliminary fitting, this seems like it will work


After some sanding I cut the front and rear windscreen out and tried them in the front fits fairly well, the rear was off by a mile. I think it will be easier to make a new one for the back or leave it off. I think I am at least going to buy a piece of acetate and try my hand at it. It will really improve the lines of the fuse to have a back windscreen.
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