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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:50 AM
pd1
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United States, MA, Haverhill
Joined Jun 2006
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Nice job on the Trainermaster.
Is that an original Aamco tiller arm in the nosegear coil?

Paul
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:12 AM
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United States, CA, Long Beach
Joined Jan 2012
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Thanks. Good eyes ,yeah all original hardware. I thought I would fly it alot however the engine is fussy and the covering is rather fragile, so it is mostly a hanger queen
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Last edited by GLGofLB; Jan 02, 2013 at 11:14 AM. Reason: addition
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 10:39 AM
Brighto?
Mike Denest's Avatar
United States, DE, Newark
Joined Dec 2003
635 Posts
Typical for a Veco .45. Since there is no ring, it takes a while for them to break in. Use at least a 20% castor fuel. Straight synthetic will wear them out quick.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 12:03 PM
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Mike that is a good comment. I had some help from a national pylon champion help me break this engine in. We ran a gallon of fuel through it with an additional 6 oz. of medical grade castor added. I just dont have patience for fiddeling with the carb. I have managed not to have a dead stick but I also dont fly it much at low throttle.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 12:57 PM
Brighto?
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United States, DE, Newark
Joined Dec 2003
635 Posts
A Perry carb replacement solves all ills.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 04:15 AM
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Joined Jan 2012
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Back to work on the Navajo. As you can see by the picture below things are tight in the servo compartment. Spent awhile thinking about the situation and realized that the servo wheel bottom was interfering with the underside of the top sheeting.

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Description: Opened servo compartment.  Servo wheel so to large to fit into aileron link and align perpendicular and attach to servo spline.Name: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Swapping out servo wheel for single sided cut down servo arm with custom placed hole for ball connector solved binding problem.Name: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Once I realized everything would fit, it was time to fabricate a servo tray.  I start with 1/16th ply
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Description: I scored and cracked ply to match dihedral of wing, then added hardwood mounting blocksName: Image00006.jpg
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Description: Tray cemented and braced firmly, servo screwed into place and everything lines up


The next thing to do was to complete the aileron linkages then attach to bellcranks and check the entire mechanism. I the final pushrods are quite short and have three separate bends close together. I only had to make four to get two that worked.

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Description: Laying out servo pushrod exits on sheetingName: Image00008.jpg
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Description: I drill two holes with a 1/8 inch drill then connect holes with sharp knife to make slotName: Image00009.jpg
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Description: Finished slot and pushrod.  Aileron control horns glued into control surfaceName: Image00010.jpg
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Description: A view from the inside.  I only had to make four pushrods to get two good ones


The kit lists two options for mounting the wing. The plans show the wing being held down with dowels and rubber bands; but liner notes explain how to go with nylon bolt hold downs. I am going with the second option. Besides the wing would get crushed on the delicate sheeting by all that rubber band pressure and it looks horrible.

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Description: Here is some extra die cut ply wood that can be used to inlay the trailing edge.  Notice the hole that is formed, this is to accommodate  inch hardware dowel.Name: Image00013.jpg
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Description: Trailing edge sheeting removed and plywood inlayedName: Image00014.jpg
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Description: The leading edge needs hardwood blocks added as wellName: Image00016.jpg
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Description: Leading edge bays were filled with balsa blocks then a liberal amount of epoxy and micro balloon mix was poured inName: Image00017.jpg
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Description:  inch plywood was inlayed over the top of the glue.
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Description: Meanwhile to finish the modifications plywood mounting plates had to be fabricated to fit in the fuselage to accommodate the mounting bolts. Here is the dry fit


All the hard points of the mounting are finished and the wing can now be reinforced with fiberglass. This wing had only a few spar joiners and basically nothing behind the main spar to hold things together so I chose to glass it. The following sequence of pictures shows the method I have developed to get a neat center glass job.

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Description: First cut a strip wide enough and long enough cover the entire center section with one piece.  Also lay out an over sized piece of wax paperName: Image00020.jpg
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Description: Using a light coat of 3M spray mount on one side of the glass coat smooth the fabric out on the wax paper over a sheet of glass. In this case my work table.Name: Image00021.jpg
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Description: Use a metal straight edge and a new razor blade to get a clean fished edgeName: Image00022.jpg
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Description: Make a second cut to get a perfectly squared up strip.  Apply a second heavier coat of spray mount to the exposed cloth.Name: Image00023.jpg
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Description: Using the wax paper as a transfer media, flip the glass over on to the wing and press the glass to place the adhesive will hold things in place
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Description: Peel the wax paper off and use your fingers to smooth the wrinkles outName: Image00025.jpg
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Description: Fiberglass cloth smoothed down ready to add resin.  Note no frayed edgesName: Image00026.jpg
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Description: I also place a piece of masking tape parallel to each edge all the way around about 3/16 of an inch off to the sideName: Image00027.jpg
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Description: Since this wing is going to get a MonoKote covering I am using epoxy resin instead of polyester.  Here all the suppliesName: Image00028.jpg
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Description: I mix the resin pour it on top and brush it through using an acid brush that I dispose of later
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Description: I then squeegee off the excess resin using a credit card and pressure to really glue the glass down firmly.  The right side is done the left still has excessName: Image00030.jpg
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Description: Flip wing over and do the bottomName: Image00031.jpg
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Description: Finished job will be ready to sand tomorrow

I really wanted to get the resin on the wing before I called it a day and I managed to do that.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 03:38 PM
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I was really shooting to finish this plane in a month however my other life responsibilities (work) have a way of taking a lot of time. The next thing to do here is mount the wing to the fuse, then mount the stab and fin. At that point I plan on building the floats and figuring out the mechanics of the water rudder, tie that in to the flying rudder. Once ALL of that is done I will be able to button up the top and bottom sheeting add the dorsal fin and start the finishing process. Whew!

I had a couple of hours to work Sunday night; so here is what I was able to get done.
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Description: Masking tape off of wing glass and a light sanding with 80 grit.  I had to remove a couple of bubbles in the glassName: 2.jpg
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Description: Next is to prepare the fuse for mounting the wings by securing the hard points.  In this case I am using  inch ply.Name: 3.jpg
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Description: I framed in  inch triangle stock to give a positive seat for the plywood platesName: 4.jpg
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Description: Fore and Aft plates in place with 30 minute epoxy



Since I used 30 minute epoxy to secure the mounting plates, it seemed logical to move on to something else while I waited for the glue to cure. I want to get the tank installed and the front lower chin block in place. Also with the forward hatch in place, will I have easy access to the fuel lines; or will I need to add a third line to facilitate fueling? The only way to tell is get the hatch to place with the engine installed and see what we have.


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Description: Engine installed to evaluate clearancesName: 6.jpg
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Description: I decided that there was room to cut a hole in hatch with out removing the front portion.  Hand drawn half templateName: 7.jpg
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Description: Template transferred to cardboard alignment flaps. Extra bumps added to accommodate exhaust header and intake pipeName: 8.jpg
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Description: Alignment of template to airplane
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Description: Then I transferred out line to hatch and roughed out the opening with a DremelName: 10.jpg
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Description: Initial hatch try in, almost 100% down.  Needs a little finessing to get it to place.  However it is dinner time!

I need to remove a little more material around intake pipe however it is becoming obvious that the needle valve assembly and fuel fill will both be un- accessible. I will give that some additional thought.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 09:04 AM
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United States, NY, Ithaca
Joined Sep 2007
867 Posts
For what it's worth, my experience is that easy access to the vital engine parts makes all the difference in the field, and I don't notice the extra cut outs once the whole project is done. You're doing a great job, but after all this you want to enjoy flying that airplane, don't you? Make it work for you in the field, don't let it become a frustrating hangar queen once it's done.

Speaking of hangar queens, the silked Trainermaster is gorgeous. I hope GGB replaces the carb or the whole engine and makes a real flyer out of it!

Jim
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 11:36 AM
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United States, CA, Long Beach
Joined Jan 2012
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Thanks for the feed back. I had about five more minutes with the dremel last night before I took the project to my club meeting for show and tell. I was able to fully seat the hatch and I will be able to access the fill nozzle on the carb and with one more carefully placed hole I will be able to adjust the high speed needle with the hatch on. The only time the hatch will have to come off is for low end needle adjustments. I think this is going to be a field friendly flyer.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:15 AM
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I thought it good to do a little something tonight. Originally thought I could finish the hatch cut outs AND mount the wing. However after I finished the hatch I am starting to see a new problem emerge.

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Description: Made a cardboard template to line up needle valve cut out holeName: Image00002.jpg
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Description: Cardboard template from another view.  Note using an allen head wrench for a temporary needle extensionName: Image00003.jpg
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Description: Hatch in place using template to align starter hole in hatch
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Description: Hatch with finished cut outs down in place with muffler, needle, fuel tank, fuel lines, spinner back plate and prop in place.Name: Image00005.jpg
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Description: Front viewName: Image00006.jpg
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Description: Back view with fuel feed line removed, this should facilitate fuelingName: Image00007.jpg
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Description: Fuel line back on carb inlet nipple.  That clearance problem worked itself out


Just for kicks I placed the wing on the fuse saddle I can see that a lot more preparation of the fuse needs to take place prior to mounting. I also placed the fuse on the aluminum main gear which I planed on mounting to the floats. Well that 13 inch prop looks like it may be a clearance problem with the front float tips. I might need to make a new main gear to elevate the fuse higher up above the floats. See the clearance problem in this last picture.

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Description: Fuselage setting on main gear and prop tip hits ground which is equivalent to top of float deck.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 08:14 PM
Brighto?
Mike Denest's Avatar
United States, DE, Newark
Joined Dec 2003
635 Posts
Go with a three blade prop.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 09:17 PM
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United States, NY, Ithaca
Joined Sep 2007
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Yes, either 3 blade or a 12x7 and you aren't planning to use a wood prop on a float plane, right?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:44 AM
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United States, CA, Long Beach
Joined Jan 2012
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Was able to figure out the clearance problems of the prop clearing the floats without re-designing the landing gear; all I am going to do is place a to inch platform between the fuse bottom and gear! Presto problem solved. However I never thought about the problem of using a wooden prop, it would probably get chewed up pretty badly. I really like wooden props, particularly Xoars, however now that you guys mention it proably better to go with a nylon APC.


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Description: Eerie clean bench in preparation to starting the float assembly.Name: Image00002.jpg
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Description: I am using the great planes 40 size float kit which translates to about the correct size.  Here I am comparing the die cut float mount locations to the custom locations more forward that will allow my existing gear to line up well.Name: Image00003.jpg
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Description: New float attachment locations finalized in forward positionName: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Blind nuts in place and mounting brackets dry fit to verify alignment, good to go.
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Description: Float spines bulkheads and keels cemented to placeName: Image00006.jpg
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Description: Float sides laminated on along with fore and aft stringers cut and sanded to shape.  The other float spine waiting its turn.Name: Image00007.jpg
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Description: Both floats finished to the same stage.  Float on left needs to be sanded flush all the way around, at which point I will be able to move forward.


Basically happy with the progress I made this weekend the wood parts count is getting pretty low. I think about one more week I can start the finishing process. I hope.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:14 PM
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This is such a nice project! Where did you get the float design?

Yeah, I like wood props too, but everyone says water destroys them quickly. If I had reasonable access to a good lake I'd be doing this too.

Jim
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 06:14 PM
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United States, CA, Long Beach
Joined Jan 2012
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Jim,
If you go back to page one of this string and look at picture #9 you can see the "Great Planes Float Kit” They manufacture the kit in three sizes. .20, .40 and for .60 size airplanes. The die cutting of the plywood bulkheads and keels give them the basic shape that the sheeting conforms to. Just need to be careful not to warp it in to a banana. It is equivalent to building a simple box type fuse with no mechanical parts inside. Thanks for the encouragement, hope it all comes together the way my minds eye sees it.
Gary
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