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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:28 PM
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GLGofLB's Avatar
United States, CA, Long Beach
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Made nice progress this weekend, always like to start off just where we left off.

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Description: fuselage on bench just where I left you Name: 01.jpg
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Description: Machined servo rails were not in kit so I added a balsa doubler, perpendicular to fuse and laminated hardwood servo rail to balsa


Now to move on to the landing gear, actually the main float connection strut
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Description: Dycem layout ink with hole location scribed on partName: 04.jpg
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Description: Always challenging clamping landing gear to drill press, clean holeName: 05.jpg
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Description: Drilled out landing gear positioned on plywood platform, one hole slightly off, but gear perpendicular to center line

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Description: Perpendicular clean holes without using drill press are accomplished with hex drill guide nutsName: 07.jpg
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Description: Finished holesName: 08.jpg
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Description: Underlying hardwood blocks are tapped using light hand pressure.  Note ľ-20 nylon bolt in threaded hole.

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Description: Finished landing gear mounted, Epoxy reinforcement around hardwood blocks still needed

Next I thought the engine/ tank compartment needed to addressed, this would include engine mounting and the throttle cable assembly.

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Description: 1/4 inch plywood engine mounting plate attached to engine rails.  Since the rails were already drilled the trick was to drill the plate to fit the already finished holesName: 11.jpg
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Description: Brand new OS-Max 62 four stroke ready to mountName: 12.jpg
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Description: Layout for engine plate
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Description: Finished plate
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Description: Finished plate attached to fuse.Name: 14.jpg
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Description: Nose ring taped in to place and engine resting on mounting plate with a balsa sheet spacer behind engine spinner back plate.Name: 15.jpg
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Description: Engine mounted on plate with 6-32 SHMS

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Description: Throttle servo mounted and throttle cable routed to check clearances and swing.[Name: 17.jpg
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Description: Aluminum foil to protect wood against solder dripName: 18.jpg
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Description: Finished solder joint






Now time to move on to the rear servos and pushrods so I can button up the top and bottom sheeting.

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Description: First install ply servo rails, I like screws so I can remove them if need be. (sometimes hard to get to landing gear platform or slide a battery around under them)



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Description: Trial fit of Stab in die cut fuse slot.  Remarkable accurate fit!Name: 22.jpg
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Description: By now I have placed rear bulkheads and have drawn tail closed around tail post.  Picture shows pushrod tube guides glued inName: 23.jpg
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Description: Rudder and Elevator servo setup and pre-programmed.

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Description: Calculated pushrod exit angles off of plansName: 25.jpg
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Description: Finish pushrod exits with epoxy and micro balloons.Name: 26.jpg
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Description: Exit holes ready to trim and sand

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Description: Finished sanded hole

The last step was actually a mistake. I used epoxy and micro balloons; I plan on finishing fuse with ĺ oz glass and polyester resin. I know polyester will not cure over epoxy; therefore I am hoping that a soak of thin CA wicked in to the finished area and sanded back will cure this compatibility mistake. You ask why not just finish off in glass and epoxy? Two reasons price and weight. My personal experience has born out that I can do polyester lighter than epoxy. Also like the properties of polyester better, except the smell. And the debate is on!



Back to the front end, engine compartment fixed cowling and removable hatch.

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Description: The lumber for the fixed cowling portionName: 29.jpg
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Description: Sticks and sheets trimmed and cemented in place. Started the shaping process on port side and then thought better to shape cowl and hatch at same time.Name: 30.jpg
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Description: Trimming sticks that make up front hatch

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Description: Front hatch laying in placeName: 32.jpg
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Description: Front hatch parts tack glues in placeName: 33.jpg
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Description: Dowels and sockets used to align hatch in place

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Description: Something new, rare earth magnets used to hold hatch in placeName: 35.jpg
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Description: First magnet buried in fuselage sideName: 36.jpg
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Description: Other three magnets cemented in to place, front of hatch trimmed and nose ring cemented in to place.

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Description: Want hatch to have that ďseamlessĒ fit so I am using the MonoKote and micro balloon trick.  MonoKote ironed on to hatch edgesName: 38.jpg
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Description: Hatch back in place ready to receive resin and micro balloon mixture

I really intended to trowel in some resin and micro balloons last night so I could sand the hatch tonight; however I was foiled when I reach for my can of polyester resin which cured in the can. Well I was online this morning ordering new stuff, which means I will have to move on to the wing while I wait for the materials to be shipped from Ohio.
Stay tuned
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Mike Denest's Avatar
United States, DE, Newark
Joined Dec 2003
571 Posts
I use wall board joint compound on gaps like that. It's lightweight, easy to sand and will take any finish. I trowel it in with an artists knife, wait a few hours and lightly sand.

I have the earlier VK kit, the Challenger in my stash. Both are great flying airplanes.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 12:16 PM
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United States, CA, Long Beach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Denest View Post
I use wall board joint compound on gaps like that. It's lightweight, easy to sand and will take any finish. I trowel it in with an artists knife, wait a few hours and lightly sand.

I have the earlier VK kit, the Challenger in my stash. Both are great flying airplanes.
Thanks Mike,
i think in the future that would be quicker and easier, howevere i am hopeing i can slavage this with out diging it out
Gary
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Time to push ever forward. While I am waiting for the finishing resin to arrive I decided to start on the wings. The good part of this is that I finally punched out the rest of the die sheets. The bad part is there are no instructions. The die cutting is very clever in that each rib has an assembly jig attached to help align future parts. However the going is slow so I do not accidentally cement something in the wrong order.
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Description: Lots of die cut parts ribs, trailing edges and plywood doublers as well as angle braces.


Always safe to start with the main spar and the majority of the ribs.
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Description: Always safe to start with the main spar and the majority of the ribs.


The first wing panel is going slow however I expect the second one to fly together! Believe it or not this represents about 3 1/2 hour of work, this definitely is an intermediate skills building project!
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Description: The first wing panel is going slow however I expect the second one to fly together!
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Last edited by GLGofLB; Dec 05, 2012 at 04:29 PM. Reason: pictures lacked annotations
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Ok these pictures are going up out of sequence, but it tells a better story if I present it this way. I left off with wanting to put micro-balloons and resin into the hatch mating area. When I reassessed the situation, I thought I could get a better result if I first roughly shaped the hatch cowl and top of nose ring prior to adding the resin.


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Description: Rough shaping of top hatch and nose ringName: 2.jpg
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Description: Preparing for the addition of MonoKote to all of the mating surfaces of the hatchName: 3.jpg
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Description: Receiving surfaces for the hatch

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Description: MonoKote ironed to hatch surfaces and then teased back slightlyName: 5.jpg
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Description: Thin mix of Union Carbide Micro- Balloons and polyester resin toweled in to all of the cracks and crevicesName: 6.jpg
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Description: Side view of the hatch area


I would have gone on to sand out the micro-balloons however I used the minimum amount of catalyst and what should have taken 6 hours to cure is taking more like 4 days. Does MEK with peroxide catalyst have a limited shelf life? Everything else I used was new.

Now back to the wing, the fixed part of the trailing edge has to be built up first prior to trailing edge sheer and upper sheeting and cap strips.

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Description: Lower fixed flap, jigged and cemented in.Name: 92.jpg
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Description: Upper fixed flap and trailing edge cap

At this point the wing panel needs all of the upper sheeting and cap strips; however I think it is time to rout aileron pushrods prior to sheeting. Wanted to do push rood work on both wings simultaneously therefore time to frame up left wing.

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Description: Plans laid out to frame up port wingName: 94.jpg
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Description: Managed to get to this stage very quickly based on what I already learnedName: 95.jpg
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Description: Everything weighted down flat, lower fixed flap againName: 96.jpg
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Description: The bench is really getting messy!  Better tidy things up a bit prior to going forward

The plan is to now get the aileron pushrods and guides placed so I can sheet the top of both wings, or at least the part that gets sheeted. First a quick tidy up.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 01:11 PM
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Well I would like to share with you that I am making smashing progress; however the truth is that I am going to share a step gone wrong. Apparently I had a resin curing failure!

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Description: Sanded hatch looks great good contour.Name: 2.jpg
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Description: Tight closure of gap using micro balloons and MonoKote.Name: 3.jpg
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Description: Close up view of gap ready to release part.


After I released part and started peeling off MonoKote the resin edge was sticky and plastic with a soft gooey edge. I ultimately scraped off all the resin and lightly sanded the edges back to raw wood.

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Description: View of hatch and opening after sanding off sticky mess.



Now I have a larger gap to manage but I will fix this.
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Description: View of new gap left sideName: 6.jpg
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Description: View of new gap top backName: 7.jpg
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Description: View of new gap top front


After this folly you can see the large gap that I now have to manage. I called the resin manufacturer to get some additional information. I have used this technique before successfully; and can only speculate what went wrong. Since I used all new resin and styrene thinner; my guess is that the MEKP catalyst was either too old or I used to little. (7 drops to Ĺ once). If anyone else has had this problem let me know what the cause was? Well I need to try again this weekend so first I am going to run some tests on scrape balsa until I get the results I know can be achieved.

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Description: Back to the drawing board
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 04:06 PM
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If you are going to cover the plane with an Iron - on covering, those gaps should fill in. As far as the sticky mess....put the parts in your car, windows rolled up and let it sit in the sun! I've have had too many experiences with just the problem you are having and the car trick seems to cure the glue.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Thanks Tailskid2,
Unfortunately I am going with 3/4 oz glass and resin finish on the fuse and tail, with MonoKote covering on the wing. I ran some tests to figure out why the the resin did not cure the first time.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 03:30 PM
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Okay sometimes model building is 2 steps backward and 1 step forward, this one of those times. Since my resin was not setting correctly and since I was planning on using this resin for a finish; I needed to run some tests to figure out the problem.


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Description: Test balsa mock up with resin and micro balloons, testing catalyst, noting cured correctly.Name: 2.jpg
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Description: Test balsa mock up with resin and micro balloons, testing catalyst, noting cured correctly.Name: 3.jpg
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Description: Success!


Well the source of my problems was expired catalyst MEKP. Now to make up ground by Re-fitting hatch

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Description: Raw balsa opening with strips of MonoKote and a batch of resin and micro balloonsName: 5.jpg
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Description: Coat of micro balloons and then lay on strips of MonoKoteName: 6.jpg
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Description: Put hatch to placeName: 7.jpg
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Description: Spatulate in more micro balloons and resin to fill gaps
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Description: Picture of additional micro balloons and resin on both sides of MonoKote parting filmName: 9.jpg
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Description: Fuselage set aside to set up hard



After the fuse resin sets very hard for a day I will sand out seams and separate part off. Meanwhile back to the wing. Before I glue all the upper sheeting to place the aileron pushrods and ply doublers needed to be installed.

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Description: View of quick link and pushrod solder jointName: 92.jpg
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Description: With pushrods in place servo side of links are soldered in and plastic caps are screwed on to line up over midline.Name: 93.jpg
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Description: Right and left wing are both finished to same point, now I have to do sheeting.  All doublers and joiners laminated and test fit

Just was not feeling it last night; so I will do the sheeting when I am in a different state of mind. Time to catch up on a little telly
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 11:03 AM
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This is probably my last post until after Christmas because I am taking a holiday trip to the east coast. COLD. I decided to bite the bullet and just go about sheeting the wing, only finished the right wing panel.


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Description: This is where I left off on the wingsName: 01.jpg
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Description: Upper surface leading edge sheet, center section and rib cap strips, ready to un-weightName: 02.jpg
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Description: Almost finished wing flat on bench, starting to like the look of things
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Description: Added aileron mount reinforcement and all lower sheeting, the entire aileron bay is sheeted to accommodate a clean pushrod exitName: 04.jpg
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Description: Finished wing with all sheeting and cap strips.


After I get the other wing caught up I need to square up the ends, and add block wing tip then cut out aileron cavity on under surface. I chose to finish up by sanding out the hatch area and separating part off.

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Description: Resin and MonoKote sandwich getting rough sandingName: 06.jpg
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Description: Hatch and micro balloons with finished rough sandingName: 07.jpg
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Description: Initial separation of part
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Description: Fuselage with residual MonoKote film, in process of peeling it off.Name: 09.jpg
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Description: Finished hatch back in place notice supper narrow seam.Name: 10.jpg
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Description: Gap some where between 10 and 20 thousands

After a week of playing around with my resin chemistry I finally got the fit I was trying to achieve. The fuselage will get a covering of ĺ oz. glass and resin and the seam should virtually disappear.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays see you all after the 26th
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 03:31 PM
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Happy New Years, Well the Mayanís were wrong and we are all here in 2013. It has been 11 eleven days since I have posted. Since then I have survived the cold weather in Connecticut and New York for Christmas day. Everybody is still out of town except for me and I had a chance to do some building. Wanted to get the wings squared away so I can do the final assembly push and get to building the floats.

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Description: Right wing sheeted and center line sandedName: Image00004.jpg
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Description: Strange under camber on each wing tip?Name: Image00005.jpg
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Description: Tons of weight on left wing panel as top sheeting and cap strips are added
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Description: Flip wing over and cut off alignment tabsName: Image00007.jpg
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Description: Inboard tab accommodates lower flap sheeting, interesting die cuttingName: Image00008.jpg
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Description: Left wing sheeting on bottom completed


Time for a break because the next step is some quality time with a sanding bar. Just for kicks I applied front landing gear plate with plenty of thread lock. This piece will never see the light of day once lower sheeting is complete; therefore it needs to be attached well.

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Description: Front landing gear plate attached, this will be front float attachment location



Back to the wing, I am pretty proud of my measuring skills, I sanded each root wing panel to centerline and angle using measurements off the plans. Presto! The first dry fit and the wings match up nice

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Description: Dry fit centerline of wing seems spot onName: Image00011.jpg
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Description: Dihedral braces in place and wings meet up well


Time to do all that ugly shaping and sanding; actually I like seeing things take shape, just donít like all the sanding dust.

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Description: Wingtip blocks glued to wing tips, note leading edge is still flat trapezoid stockName: Image00013.jpg
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Description: Left wing tip roughed out and rough shaped, still havenít tackled leading edgeName: Image00014.jpg
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Description: Right wing tip whittled out using large blade exacto knife on left side of image
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Description: Everything thatís not a wing tip laying on drivewayName: Image00016.jpg
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Description: Both wing tips roughed shaped, still havenít touched those leading edges



Decided I still did not want to face shaping the leading edges and all that dust; so I went to build the ailerons. I actually want the ailerons built and hinged before I joined the wings. With the ailerons attached and stabilized with linkages and a servo it will hold things still when sanding the ailerons to their final contours.
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Description: Ailerons are built up from die cut pieces, sheeting weighted down to plansName: Image00018.jpg
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Description: Left aileron lower sheetingName: Image00019.jpg
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Description: Contoured leading edge and ribs cemented to place; shaped hardwood horn block in center of picture
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Description: Upper sheeting glued on, Almost finished flapName: Image00021.jpg
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Description: Contoured leading edge and ribs cemented to place; shaped hardwood horn block in center of picture


I thought it may be interesting to use the original pre-shaped metal control horns. The plans say they are brass; however they are clearly thin sheet steel.

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Description: Metal control horns freshly de-burredName: Image00024.jpg
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Description: 5/64th hole drilled to accommodate #2 screwsName: Image00025.jpg
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Description: Control horn blocks drilled to accept screws
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Description: Metal horns screwed to blocksName: Image00028.jpg
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Description: Control horn dry fit to aileronName: Image00030.jpg
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Description: Left and right control horn completed



And thatís how itís done old school! Sometimes I donít know what I am thinking I probably could have saved a couple of hours if I just used nylon horns; however I did not have two that matched lying around. Also this kit was packed up in 1969, so I need it to have a little vintage character. The second aileron moved on quickly

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Description: Right aileron sheeting leading edge and ribs in placeName: Image00032.jpg
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Description: Whenever I drill hinge pins, it seems like one is always off and going through the sheeting.  This an example of a quick fix; micro- balloons patted in to hole one drop on thin CA and sanded smoothName: Image00033.jpg
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Description: Ailerons hinged and another dry fit
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Description: Pushrod locations marked outName: Image00035.jpg
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Description: Aileron compartment marked out on bottom of wingName: Image00036.jpg
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Description: Time for a break before I finally tackle the leading edge and join the wings


After studying the plans and ailerons a bit I decided the upwards motion of the aileron was hindered unless I added a counter bevel to the upper surface of the aileron. If you make a tight hinge line how can this design possibly hinge upward?

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Description: This design canít work case closedName: Image00037.jpg
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Description: Upper counter bevel sanding line marked outName: Image00038.jpg
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Description: End view of aileron beveled to correct  and workable contour



FINALLY sanded the leading edge to airfoil contour with out poking my finger through any of the sheeting, time to join panels

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Description: Plywood template of leading edge cross section pretty accurate fitName: Image00040.jpg
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Description: Final dry fit of wing panels with dihedral braces in placeName: Image00041.jpg
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Description: Dry fit clamping dress rehearsal
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Description: Epoxy measured and mixed here goes nothing.  Is this a good time to stop and take pictures?  Should be plenty of time with the thirty minute stuff.Name: Image00043.jpg
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Description: Okay the real deal pushed together and clampedName: Image00044.jpg
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Description: Dihedral supposed to be 2 ĺ inches at this point, spot on
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Description: After over night set finish wing looks pretty goodName: Image00046.jpg
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Description: Servo is going to be tight fit in this compartment space
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:59 PM
pd1
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Joined Jun 2006
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Looks very nice. I found that with flying seaplanes the balsa sometimes swelled up a bit.
Good fitting holes in ribs sometimes grabbed the pushrods and made flying a little tougher.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Looks very nice. I found that with flying seaplanes the balsa sometimes swelled up a bit.
Good fitting holes in ribs sometimes grabbed the pushrods and made flying a little tougher.
HMMM Never thought of that, Are you refering to the pushrods through the ribs? I really cant make the holes much bigger at this time with out introducing a lot of slop; however I always seemed to over servo my planes. The aileron servo puts out 80oz. at 6 volts which I will be using. Hopefully with enough cycles they will losen up a little.Thanks for the input pd1
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 07:29 AM
pd1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLGofLB View Post
HMMM Never thought of that, Are you refering to the pushrods through the ribs? I really cant make the holes much bigger at this time with out introducing a lot of slop; however I always seemed to over servo my planes. The aileron servo puts out 80oz. at 6 volts which I will be using. Hopefully with enough cycles they will losen up a little.Thanks for the input pd1
Back in the day, I used soda straws in the ribs for guides. The Du Bro Golden rods outer tubes will work too.
Since the aileron pushrod is held by the servo arm and the belcrank, the pushrod doesn't move very much,
It shouldn't add any slop to the linkage.
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 10:43 AM
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United States, CA, Long Beach
Joined Jan 2012
125 Posts
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=pd1;23687239]Back in the day, I used soda straws in the ribs for guides. The Du Bro Golden rods outer tubes will work too.
Since the aileron pushrod is held by the servo arm and the belcrank, the pushrod doesn't move very much,
It shouldn't add any slop to the linkage.
Funny enough I opened the servo bay last night and found that the linkage situation is turning out to be both a space, alignment and binding problem. After a few different servo arm and linkage arrangements that did not work I put it to bed for the evening and will give another idea a shot tonight. If worse comes to worse, I will un-solder the linkages and re- route it using Du Bro Golden rods. Would like to avoid that both because of the time and effort it would involve Regardless this situation needs to be worked out before I can go on from here. Amazing how the little things trip one up.

Also pd1 I noticed on your blog that you like silk to cover airplanes. I thought as a building enthusiast I should give silk a try. Please see attached picture of Lou Andrews Trainermaster that I built last year and covered in hand died Japanese silk.


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Description: Hand died silk and dope finish.  Custom formulated green.  1960 something Veco 45 and original decal.
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