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Old Dec 21, 2012, 06:10 PM
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conrad907's Avatar
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Had a set of the cheap hinges begin cracking on me on another build also David. I did like you are, I cut them out and went with pinned hinges. You have a great build going. Thanks for your continuing service to our country. Those of us who have served understand the huge effort behind the scenes that makes everything work.

Conrad
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 06:28 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
davidterrell80's Avatar
United States, VA, Herndon
Joined Apr 2012
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Thanks for the good words, friends. I've been weary.

I bought some pinned hinges and just finished getting everything back together. When It comes time to maiden, I'll just keep 3 meters from the camera and everything will look fine.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 09:17 AM
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Are you going to have special thrust adjustments built in for your motor mount for the maiden, or see how it behaves first?
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 11:31 AM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
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Based on my FF experience, my experience with my C-119 and recent Rufe build, and the fact I'm using the Skua's flat-bottomed FF airfoil...I'm going to set up the motor with 2 degrees of down thrust and 1.5 degrees of right thrust, using thin plastic shims to allow me to change the angle.

My plan is to adjust the aircraft thrust and CG to fly level and hands-off at 45-55% throttle with the surfaces set to neutral and a 200-300 mAh 2S battery.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 07:06 AM
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David,
Maybe i will use your motor offset settings for my own plane, it also will have a flat bottom airfoil pretty much. Your aircrew gives your plane some real personality!
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:33 AM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
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I'm also planning to offset the motor upwards and to the left, so the center of the prop's disc will be on the center line of the fuselage axis.

I considered angling the front of the cowl so that the plane of the circular leading edge was parallel to the prop-tip plane. I learned that trick from my UltraMicro T-28, which is manufactured that way. It provides an optical illusion that hides the down and side thrust... and makes restoring the angle, post crash, very easy.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 07:14 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
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I'm having a terrible time pulling a decent forward canopy... 5 tries so far and the only thing I have to offer is one really bad one.

Perhaps it's time to make a vacuum box. I've been thinking about it.

Well, I'm going to shelve that for a time, add the cowling ring and cover the fuselage.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidterrell80 View Post
I'm having a terrible time pulling a decent forward canopy... 5 tries so far and the only thing I have to offer is one really bad one.

Perhaps it's time to make a vacuum box. I've been thinking about it.

Well, I'm going to shelve that for a time, add the cowling ring and cover the fuselage.
Go ahead David, build a vac box. You are close enough to me I'll be able to borrow it...lol.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 09:49 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
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OK... how big should it be? I was thinking about a 8x10 inch frame size.
But, then, I saw this thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1672236
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 09:10 AM
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A vac box for pulling plastic parts is definitely on my must do list.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 12:34 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
davidterrell80's Avatar
United States, VA, Herndon
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It's been almost 30 years since I built a balsa-wood plane from scratch, and it shows.
I've used plastic film once before, on my Buzz Bomb 100... and that inexperience shows on my fuselage, as well. But I'm pushing forward... hoping the heat gun will make all better.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 08:37 PM
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David, this plane I am building is my second attempt with iron on material. My first experience was with Econo Kote, but this time I am trying 1.2 mil Doculam I ordered from Manzano. It must be painted, as it is clear, but it is quite easy to work with, sticks well, stretches well, etc.. I am real impressed with the ease I can pull out wrinkles as I go on this stuff. Just my impressions of the product.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conrad907 View Post
David, this plane I am building is my second attempt with iron on material. My first experience was with Econo Kote, but this time I am trying 1.2 mil Doculam I ordered from Manzano. It must be painted, as it is clear, but it is quite easy to work with, sticks well, stretches well, etc.. I am real impressed with the ease I can pull out wrinkles as I go on this stuff. Just my impressions of the product.
Be careful. I used it on my SPAD and it can get very tight and warp your structures. I found it to be a fairly high heat material. I still have some left over that I too aquired from Manzano when I ordered the SPAD XIII.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMCCOR7737 View Post
Be careful. I used it on my SPAD and it can get very tight and warp your structures. I found it to be a fairly high heat material. I still have some left over that I too aquired from Manzano when I ordered the SPAD XIII.
Yeah, I had to use about 325 degrees on the iron and tack and pull around the edges. When I went to do the opposite side I noticed some slight warping, but was able to pull it out by stretching from the opposite side. I realized then to approach this stuff gingerly, and don't over shrink.
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