Nice work! You'll love it!

Hey Mustangherb,

Would it work to put a "Z" bend behind the servo to put the control rod closer to the wing so the strut will pass over the control rod?
Looking at the picture it seems like it might have just enough clearance.
I've had to do that with control rods before and as long as the rods were short I didn't have any flex or slop problems. Your aileron rods are short so it should work if you can sneak them under the struts.
Dave.

Looks like there's not enough room for a Z-bend?

Is there enough space to move the servos deeper into the wing, to recess them enough for the pushrod to clear the strut? Could you spacer the strut mount? Use a shorter control horn hole? Otherwise, move the servo over.

I built a clipped wing version in red sunburst using century 21 fabric
Made templates out of a roll of old wall paper
OS 70 surpass for power flew great till it rekitted snapping out of knife edge
I would sheet horizontal tail surface if I was go build another one
U wish I had pics of that one but that was back in 91 or 92
I have a full wing version I purchased with floats also flys very well with the same OS70
I want to recover because it is an ugly purple color
I like the idea of dual servos in the wing something I will do when I recover
Nice work

Dave,
I like the idea of the "Z" bend and the other ideas posted so far. I will take measurements this weekend to see my best possible solution. The wing struts are only suppose to be for show on this model, but I reinforced the mounting location for the struts so they would actually supply support. Thank for all the input.

Originally Posted by Machzx

I built a clipped wing version in red sunburst using century 21 fabric
I like the idea of dual servos in the wing something I will do when I recover
Nice work

If you have the torque rod system, dual servos is easy. Take out the single servo and tray, open the servo hole so you can set two servos back in , side by side. Cut a new, wider ply servo tray, glue it to the wing and mount the two servos. I did that with my Cub and I don't have to worry about the servos getting wet. They are both inside the fuselage and away from water spray.
I had visions of using flapperons all the time. Thought it would be really cool. I found out that I don't really need them and decided that it's more trouble than it's worth.
Dave

Hobby Lobby has told me that the eRC BL46 motors should be in by next Friday. I certainly hope so, as I really want to get this project completed and in the air! I just want to say that I really appreciate everyone's comments and contributions to this build. Thank you.

The motor finally arrived on Friday, so I got straight to work taking measurements to calculate the motor box size I would need to build. I choose to build a standard type motor box like most modern ARF are using with 6-32 blind nuts installed in the front for securing the X-mount and matching mounting holes in the back of the motor box to fasten to the firewall. After completing the motor box I needed to open a opening in the bottom portion of the firewall for the ESC wires and air to pass through.

Attached firewall/motor box into fuselage and glued, trimmed and shaped top front of fuselage. Checked fit of windshield and laid out line for area behind front windshield, as this area will be black. Also glued in battery tray into fuselage. That is it for today, but I will be working on it ever night this week.

Mine had its maiden flight this weekend. All went fine with the exception of flexing of the eleavator linkage where it exits the body. have to move it foward and up for a straighter line

I plan on using Gold-N-Rod with pushrod exits to match. I will then use a 2-56 control rod of the appropriate length to prevent flexing. I will post pictures when completed.

I used Lazer rods with supports at every bulkhead. made the mistake of using the precut exit for the eleavator. had to put a Z-bend in linkage after exiting fuse to mate with control horn. worked, but flexed under load at Z-bend. Rerouted control linkage last night. nice and straight with no flexing. Now to repair holes I had to cut in covering

uspsjuan ,
I am curious to see if you could post a picture, as I have not installed my rods yet. It would be great to cut off any potential problems prior to covering the fuse.

will do it shortly.

In the first picture, you will see my pen pointing to the original location for the pushrod to exit. But you can see that it is not in the best position. In the second picture you can see where I moved it to. Nice straight shot to the control horn. Only issue was having to drill through the former where the pen is pointing

Trying to figure out this wing incidence thing. First off there was nothing straight or level about the wing saddle. I first leveled the plane's datum line, mounted the wing and then attached the Robart incidence meter. The meter measure a positive 2.5 degrees and the wing was not setting flat on the uneven wing saddle (wing is flat an true), so I sanded just enough of the wing saddle to somewhat even things out. I then remounted and measured and now it measure about a positive 1.75 degrees. Now according to the build instructions from Carl Goldberg the wing incidence is suppose to be 0 degrees and the tail is positive 2 degrees. I am in need of some experienced advice for this part of the build.