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Old Nov 06, 2012, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcav8r2
Just curious what the jig is for. When I drill holes in ribs and such, I stack them and drill on a drill press.
Also for servo lead tubes, I take a piece of paper, and cut it so the width is a little longer than about 3x the perimeter of the hole. (don't need to be exact on this). Then I wrap it around a small dowel, or pencil. Place it in the holes, and pull the dowel/pencil out. The paper unwinds and you have a perfect wiring tube that costs nothing, and weights next to nothing.
Just be sure to put the tubes in BEFORE you joint the wing.
The jig was for drilling holes in the rib with duplication. I wanted to ensure that all the holes were as close to perfect alignment as possible, as the center hole will have the body tube installed, plus I think it looks more professional.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:44 AM
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AHhh I See now. Didn't see the holes in the jig itself in the earlier pics. Yes they all do need to line up. You could stack drill without a drill press, but ya gotta be really careful.
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Battery tray

Work on making a battery tray from 1/8" aircraft ply. Made a template out of poster board to fit with the firewall installed. Then used pattern to cut battery tray. When installed the tray will be glued to interior sides, former "C", & firewall. The top side of the tray will also provide a nice mounting spot for the receiver. Please feel free to comment if you guys see me doing something I shouldn't do in this build. Remember this is my first kit build!

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Description: Battery tray. Made from 1/8" aircraft ply. Name: IMG_1658.jpg
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Description: Top view of how battery tray will fit in fuse. Note the angle stock installed to hold tray at proper location during installation. Name: IMG_1659.jpg
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Description: Bottom view of how battery tray will fit in fuse.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Lookin' GOOD. I would find a way to make the tray removable. When I make a battery tray for planes this size and larger I have made them removable. That is use rails, and screw the tray in with servo screws (go to Microfasteners.com and look for servo screws. They have WAY more uses than servo screws). In every case I have been very happy the tray was removable at some point in the models life.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 09:42 AM
Visitor from Reality
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Joined Dec 1996
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I'll go along with the removable tray, and Microfasteners too, for that matter.

Don't set your battery placement in concrete this early. If you find later that shifting it around could help - CG, other RC gear placement, whatever - you may tend to mutter Naughty Words.

With new designs and electrocutions, I aim to be able to assemble the model with all the heavy and expensive bits, plus oddments like covered tailfeathers, tailwheels and suchlike, as early as possible in order to get an idea of where the CG is heading.

Which is troublesome, true, but much less so than looking at a well-nigh finished model and saying something like 'Drat! Why is the CG three inches aft of where it should be'...

D
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:35 AM
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Great tips guys! I will see what I can do on the battery tray. Although the former "B" present a real obsticle to work around. I might have to split the tray into two halfs to get around the angled former.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 01:36 PM
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Posts 48, 49 & 50 of this this tread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93116 show how I did a removable battery box working around formers. Maybe you can work something like this. Sorry, but the pics are a bit small as way back then we were more limited in files size on posts.
FWIW this plane is still in flying shape (still haven't converted to LiPos yet, and the NiCads gave up the ghost a few years back) and I have had the tray out of it a few times and was glad I was able to.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangherb View Post
Great tips guys! I will see what I can do on the battery tray. Although the former "B" present a real obsticle to work around. I might have to split the tray into two halfs to get around the angled former.
What I do with my electrics is to glue 1/8" square hard balsa strips along where I figure the battery tray will end up. If a former gets in the way, the strips will go either through it, if the goofblal who designed the model thought that far ahead , or either side of it.

That way, a fuselage wide tray can be sat on those square strips and moved/extended back and forth as and if needed. The strips will run past where I reckon the battery will go, to accomodate panic attacks, mis-calculation and suchlike. When things are really sorted, then the battery tray gets to be cut to length and glued in.

Hope that helps

D
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 05:16 AM
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Hey guys,
I am having to post this from work, as my home computer got infected with a virus and I had to take it into the shop to be fixed. I started on the wings last night, so I will take pictures and update when I get my computer back.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangherb View Post
First off I ordered the electric motor box sold by Maxford USA that they use for their L-4 electric conversion. This should work fine for the motor that is in the .40-.60 size electric. Secondly I plan on cutting a rectangular opening at the bottom portion of the firewall (to allow for a portion of the battery to protrude). For battery access I plan to build a hatch into the fuselage front bottom panel. The battery will occupy the space just below where the fuel tank was intended to be. I will enclose pictures when I get to this point. I am leaning toward using a 5S-4000 to 5000 mah battery, as this size should fit the space and hatch size.
Could you give me a little more detail? I can't find the engine on the site. Converting a pt-40 top electric and looking for the conversion to put in it. scott
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 02:31 PM
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I am using the eRC BL46 listed on the Hobby Lobby web site. I have the dimensions that are not listed at the web site that Mike from Hobby Lobby sent me.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 08:18 AM
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Still waiting on getting the computer back from the shop ( on work computer), but in the mean time I have assembled both wings with mods for aileron servos in the wing. I promise to update with pictures and details.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 12:41 AM
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Sorry I have been missing in action from computer problems, but I have included a few pictures of what I have been up to. I am using the original center servo location for the servo to operate the flaps. I installed plywood between the ribs for wing mounted servos to operate the ailerons, plus cords have been run for pulling the servo wires thru during installation. I also did not like the strut mounts, so I made some new ones from 1/4" poplar and installed 4-40 blind nuts.
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Description: The right half of the wing during a dry fit.Name: 835.jpg
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Description: Using the included set back gauge to correctly position the wing spars. Note that I also cut the matching angle on the ends of the upper spar ends.Name: 842.jpg
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Description: Cord ran thru wing tubes to fish the servo leads thru during installation.
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Description: Parts I made for the aileron installation in the wings and the 1/4" hardwood wing strut mounts I made for greater strength.Name: 839.jpg
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Description: Wing strut mount shown in placeName: 841.jpg
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Description: Center of joined wing, showing more cords from wing tube and from center flap servo location routed forward.
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 07:09 AM
mailman
United States, TX, La Marque
Joined Aug 2012
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I like your servo setup. Much easier than my setup. thats what i get for wanting to lay the servo on it's side so you only see the arm sticking out. if i did it over, i would do it your way. good job!
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Thanks for the compliment. I was not worried about the scale look so much and I prefer the ease of setup in this configuration.
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