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Old Nov 06, 2012, 05:16 PM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
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Yep Stinger, I went w/HP. Got all the rest of needed parts,but battery and battery extension wire, for under $60. (they were out of 14.8V 25C Lipo)Combo even had 4-9gram servos...you know what that means ...another build.
And I already have something in mind.....
C
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 05:20 PM
Air Assassin
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
Joined Oct 2012
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Inlets coming into shape and servo holes cut.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:29 PM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
Joined Oct 2012
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Some more pics of progress and bench carnage!!
Got motor mounted w/tube. Servos set(1 getting switched tomorrow). Gotta make some alterations to wiring harness to hide some wires and secure ESC. Will be buttoning up fuse in next couple days and prepping things for covering and maiden. Paint scheme decided, but I'm not revealing it yet !!
Hey Walt...where'd you put your ESC???
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 08:50 AM
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Are you doing any sort of ducting or just using the planes "ducts"? You could rotate your fan a little so the wires are on the bottom, then you can just put the esc right in front of the fan. You will probably want to cut out a little slot for it to press down into though if you have room. That way it won't block the airflow. I do see what I think is a problem with your setup though. Did you extend the battery leads off your esc, and if so how much? I have learned within the last few days (well actually I knew it before but have forgotten I guess, anyways...) that your supposed to extend the motor wire side. If you did extend the battery side and leave it, a few things can happen. A, you can fry your esc over time, B, your battery wiring can corrode and the coating will start melting, and C, you can lose a lot of power, D, your fan can cutoff in flight. The latter 3 happened to me on my most recent build. It may be a pain to change it now but I would if I was you or you might be just doing it later. I extended my battery leads by about 12 inches. Very first flight of the plane motor cut off. Thought it was the battery so used a different battery and same thing. I then had to tear the plane apart to check all my solder joints thinking one had gone bad. I glued the wing and stuff back on, and did some more testing. I was only getting 22oz of thrust at WOT (on a fan rated at 42oz), and it would continually cut out everytime I went upThe to 3/4 throttle or higher while holding the plane vertical. Decided to look at my battery extension wire, and sure enough the internal wire was corroding and turning black, as well as the coating had started melting. There is a way you can do it safely but you have to solder in capacitors into the battery lead which to me is more work than just extending 3 wires instead of 2.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:46 AM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
Joined Oct 2012
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Are youkidding me ??!!!SO CALLED EXPERT @ LHS said NOT to extend motor side!!! I KNEW he was an idiot !! Thanx Stinger for catching this before I butoned up. Actually my original plan was to extend the ESC side to make hiding the harness SOOOOO much easier.I could move ESC into the "V". Even had an airflow design ready for electronics that would even go w/ overall theme of plane. I guess I get to do more soldering,good thing I was already going to store for more shrink tube.BUT NOT THAT LHS!! JERK sold me wrong tip even after I asked him specifically if it would work. Not worth going back 35 mins for store credit at a piss me off store.
Thanx again Stinger....this coulda ended badly
C
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Yea no problem, better to get it fixed now than when you have it all glued up. You CAN technically extend the battery wire but like I was saying you have to use some kind of capacitor or something. Like 1 on each side for every 4-6 in you extend if I remember right. Either way its easier just to extend the motor wires. The wiring I ordered will be in mail today so I can fix the same mistake. You at least shouldn't have to remove the fan or anything, just extend the esc side, and yes that should make positioning your esc easier as well. I've never had an issue not having it in the airflow, but I know that others have as well. I also run enough headroom so that I don't get close to the limit. You could put it in the intake path, but like I was saying, it depends on how thick the foam is if you can cut in an area so its not fully blocking any air. Or just go with whatever your previous plan was for putting it in the V. Also on those wire, you could also cut a small channel for them to, to run up to the front, or just tape them down so they aren't flapping around. I think what I have learned on the 2 edf builds I've done is you want as few things blocking air as possible. It may not make a big difference either way, but doesn't take too long to do. Keep in mind also since your esc will be more up front now, the placement of your receiver. I've never been able to get an esc to work right using a servo extension, so you'll wanna keep the receiver where the original lead can reach it. Try not to place them right next to each other though, I think some people in the past half had RF noise from putting them too close. What I had been doing was putting the esc on one side of thrust tube, and the receiver on the other , but that was also with my extended battery lead so I'll have to do some reworking of placement also. Looking forward to your maiden on this bird. Have been thinking of building one myself. Theres also a thread over in the foamy jets section (just do a quick search within that forum for super bandit and it should be the first result), where theres like 150 pages worth of the edf version of this plane. If you go to like page 105 or 106, theres a guy named waltj or something like that. He did some pretty nice duct work.
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Last edited by stingeragents; Nov 10, 2012 at 11:18 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 10:13 PM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
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Lots of fun today. (1) Reversed servo for Elev.( 2)Re-wired entire harness and routed(3)Started ducting collector(thats the rings...top lip of 9 styro cups) .Hopefully should have duct work done tomorrow. Will also be mounting Horz Stab tomorrow since the back end is all good now.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Looking good man. I also got my wiring fixed today. Looking at a couple other planes i built i extended batt lead on all of them. Still gotta fix the others. What fan are you using on this? Im looking towards my next build and its up in the air between super bandit t38 or f20. Last few ive built just havent had the speed i thought they would. Interesting idea with those foam cups.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:05 PM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
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I am using Dynam 70mm w/3000kv brushless outrunner. A 4S going through a 60Amp ESC. This is a 109% scale ...and I'm SQUEEZING in that 70mm. The cups...yea I'll smoothe and fill the insides. I thickened the inlet walls by using 1/2" foam all the way down instead of just top and bottom strips. So I will be sanding them into curved ducts to meet the collector. I did see that ,even if I put in hatch to unplug motor from ESC, re-routing those wires back through duct space will be murder.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:50 PM
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I have that same fan combo. Cant beat the price at hobbypartz. I just love the sound of the change sun 10 blade fans. The setups are more expensive but worth it imho. Running those wires can be a pain especially if you have to access it later. Make sure your fan is spinning correct way before you seal it.im gonna pick up a watt meter on my next check to compare performance between the dynam fan and cs fan.if its close with the setups im running i may just switch back to the dynam fans. I have a few more planes i wanna do and then ill prolly quit building for a while. I want to build a su37 and also a plane that goes real fast. That will put me at 6 edfs. Ive also wanted to experiment with 90mm fans but even the cheap hv esc arent reallycheap so i will probably hold off on that. There'salso a ton of edf kits i want but just cant justify the price right now. I always seem to crash kits after a few flights and they never look the same. If i can just get 1 real fast scratch build under my belt ill prolly be happy. Ive come to realize it doesnt matter how powerful your electrics are its still airframe limited.
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Last edited by stingeragents; Nov 10, 2012 at 11:58 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:28 AM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
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I was going to get the 70mm 10 blade from HP, but i went with the combo pack instead. I got the fan,3000kv motor,60a esc and 4- 9gram serrvos for under $50. I did have to solder on connections for motor and battery to ESC , but still a great deal. I'm still toying with a 3 EDF fighter design for another build. THAT would be fast !!
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:38 AM
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LMAO ....yea Stinger, I triple checked fan rotation. And even color coordinated the wires in case I ever have to open it up.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Yea, I think the cheapest route buying from the US for a CS setup is like 64 + shipping, so it does come out a bit more than the dynam. Sound is so much different though. Did you balance your fan at all? I don't think I did as I could not get that stupid spinner off. Think instead of loctite that welded it on there so I just left it. Has a little bit of vibration on mine but its not terrible.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:16 AM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
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Did not balance Fan. Havent noticed any vibration at all.
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Last edited by RogueAce; Nov 11, 2012 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 11:37 AM
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United States, FL, Pompano Beach
Joined Oct 2012
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Once again the airframe is gutted. Makes ductwork soo much easier. Horz Stab attached and all servos glued in. So to clarify my ducting(as pics are "in progress"),I had used 1/2" foam for length of inlet,instead of just 1/2" strip at top and bottom edge. This is being sanded down to a duct shape. The "cuplid Collector" will be cut in half lengthwise and only used for ducting top. the bottom of collector is molded $Tree foam that comes up to meet inlet sides. All nice and smoothe. Building ducts inside of these already thickened inlets would be over-engineering....and too much weight.
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