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Old Jan 21, 2013, 03:59 PM
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Trevorh's Avatar
Hampshire, U.K.
Joined Jun 2008
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Well done, Mike!
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 06:34 PM
Heads up...
RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
740 Posts
Fantastic Mike, well done sir!

I expect video.....LOL

Camera in one hand, radio in the other?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 08:07 PM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
2,471 Posts
Well done indeed, Mike! Always nice to see a rare bird like this take form and fly.

Steve
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 04:55 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,397 Posts
Thanks everyone! A very rewarding result from a very good kit (despite my big thumbs).

Tissue and dope covering would have given a more consistent result - perhaps next time!

She will easily carry three cells and retracts (if there are any this small that cater for 80 degree retraction angle, and if we had a tarmac strip to take off from and land on) but might loose that "scale speed" feeling it has at the moment.

A year or so ago I enlarged the plans to 60" span and this would make an impressive large park flier, but still runs into the technical problems over the retract angle.

Now's the time to get out the compressor and spray gun: I got the Tamiya paints the other day.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 10:15 AM
MPP
In Unusual Attitude Recovery
MPP's Avatar
Danbury CT (DXR)
Joined Oct 2005
2,152 Posts
Congrats Mike! fire up the airbrush and dress her up. Glad you have the maiden complete. Always feels good when they are proven flyers.

Best,

M
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 06:56 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,397 Posts
I flew the plane again yesterday after finishing most of the camouflage (which incidentally worked really well against the trees in the background) but the markings are fairly obviously just sticky paper: I'll get some vinyl markings done by Tim Calvert (modelmarkings.com) when he has a moment.

The flying is still very easy and she slows down enough for smooth landings. All in all, a very satisfying little model, and a format I'll try again.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 01:54 PM
Res Ipsa Aviatur
Longhorne's Avatar
Sonoma County CA!
Joined Jul 2007
1,332 Posts
That one is really pretty, Mike. The slender wings make her look so graceful that you might forget her lineage.

Take care,

Paul
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 07:38 PM
Heads up...
RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
740 Posts
Yep, looks great mike. Love the paint work.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 08:20 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,397 Posts
I've flown the 152 a number of times now. It really does fly very well indeed and looks good in the air and at rest.

I crashed it the other day. I was too slow, too low, it just pirouetted in and smacked the nose part off the main fuz. It was a cold day and the spinner just smashed into lots of brittle pieces! On the field it looked bad, but back in the shed, some cyano and a bit of reinforcement and it looked very nearly as good as new. So far I have not been able to get the spare spinner to run true, so today I flew without it. Not as menacing, but still looks very distinctive.

Until today I'd flown it on 2 cells, but I bought a 3-cell 400mAh battery specially for it, and boy, does it make a difference! 2 cells is still fine, but three gets it going vertically and I even managed a very barrelly roll, along with all the usual mild aeros.

The repairs were fine.

Now I really fancy making the 152C version to the same scale, with the shorter-span wing, or maybe a Dora. There are plenty of kits around.

Thanks to everyone for supporting the thread and the contest, and also to Al Lidberg for a really good kit.
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Old Aug 16, 2013, 07:37 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2013
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Hi Sopwith Mike,
Found your thread building the Ta 152. I have this kit and want to build an electric version too. I'm new to the areo modelling game and don't wish to build a clanger straight off through inexperience. Wondering if I could ask a few possibly simplistic questions concerning your build as despite trying to glean as much info from the photo's and text I can't determine some details?
Many thanks.
Paul.
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Old Aug 16, 2013, 09:13 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,397 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter NZ View Post
Hi Sopwith Mike,
Found your thread building the Ta 152. I have this kit and want to build an electric version too. I'm new to the areo modelling game and don't wish to build a clanger straight off through inexperience. Wondering if I could ask a few possibly simplistic questions concerning your build as despite trying to glean as much info from the photo's and text I can't determine some details?
Many thanks.
Paul.
Ask away Paul!

Mine is still flying, 33 five-minute flights so far. The Litespan covering is looking a bit second-hand where I had to repair it after a brain-fade moment, but the basic design, the mods I made and the power train are all good.

Mike
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Old Aug 17, 2013, 12:09 PM
Registered User
Canada
Joined Nov 2000
6,644 Posts
A bit off the build thread.
But here is a Czech 1:20 .. Rubber Free Flight ta 152, built by an obviously skilled modeller.
Wierd that the tail fin thickness is incorrect.. but a small matter to correct, along with fitting avionics.
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Old Aug 19, 2013, 03:13 PM
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Joined Aug 2013
3 Posts
Hi Mike,
Thanks for getting back, first question. I won't be able to carry out the engineering required to fit the "Blue Wonder", you show a 3120? as an option, who makes this motor and will I have to perform surgery to fit this? also, my "workshop" is a small desk, that will only just take the wingspan! you show a 3 bladed prop in construction shots which looks great, but your flying shots show a 2 blade option? no biggie but curious. Next, the wing, how did you maintain an accurate profile on the bottom, I have lifted a Clarke Y profile of the net but reducing it as it as the wing tapers will be hit and miss to say the least, and any idea what the chord percentage was in the end? I note you infilled the spar afterwards, I have run some Douglas Fir down to 1mm and wondering if it would be better to make the spar a solid piece from the outset? lastly how did you make the radiator, looks cool, no pun intended!
Thanks for your help.
Paul.
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Old Aug 19, 2013, 05:02 PM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,397 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter NZ View Post
Hi Mike,
Thanks for getting back, first question. I won't be able to carry out the engineering required to fit the "Blue Wonder", you show a 3120? as an option, who makes this motor and will I have to perform surgery to fit this? also, my "workshop" is a small desk, that will only just take the wingspan! you show a 3 bladed prop in construction shots which looks great, but your flying shots show a 2 blade option? no biggie but curious. Next, the wing, how did you maintain an accurate profile on the bottom, I have lifted a Clarke Y profile of the net but reducing it as it as the wing tapers will be hit and miss to say the least, and any idea what the chord percentage was in the end? I note you infilled the spar afterwards, I have run some Douglas Fir down to 1mm and wondering if it would be better to make the spar a solid piece from the outset? lastly how did you make the radiator, looks cool, no pun intended!
Thanks for your help.
Paul.
Hi Paul,

Here's my source for the pole and stator motor and all the other hardware http://robotbirds.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=56_243, a company called Robotbirds. They are very very good and delivery is always very quick. The motor I used was the 1500kV version code 409953. I made no changes at all to the motor and you can have complete confidence that the fitting is simple and the motor sturdy, powerful, light and cheap! I don't recommend a larger, heavier motor. I inserted a simple 1/16th ply firewall at the appropriate former position to take the motor mount and used a 3mm prop adaptor and APCE 7x6 2-blade prop, all from Robotbirds. The 3-blader is shown in the kit and on the plan, but is far too vulnerable when landing

Making sure the plane is light (<9oz ready to fly) is the key to enjoyable flying. I used a 2-cell 450 mAh battery and a 10A SC. This gives a scale speed and you can do beautiful sweeping manouevers, loops, wingovers, rolls etc. Three cells stresses the SC to overload (I suggest a 15A SC) but you do get a faster-than-scale model!

My wing profile was just approximate, as I'm sure you can see from the changes I made to the ribs. You really do not need to worry about very accurate profiles. If it looks right it will fly well.

A solid spar might be overkill - but if you've gone to the trouble of making a 1mm spar, use it!

The radiator behind the spinner is just a card disc sprayed black, with sections of thin alloy tube glued on. The huge supercharger intake is foam sanded from a blank.

I had a lot of trouble with the kit spinner and in the end just used a stock size - not as accurate a scale shape as the easter egg, but far more practical!

The most difficult area to get right was the fuz/fin join. I used a foam offcut to fill in the obvious gap. It looks OK.

Apart from the firewall and the 3mm soft balsa infill, I didn't make any changes to the fuz or the tail group. I didn't make a working rudder and have not really missed having one.

I use an underarm hand launch on full throttle and it works a treat. Landings are fine on grass.

Keep it light, keep it simple. It's a great flier!

Mike
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Old Aug 20, 2013, 01:10 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2013
3 Posts
HI Mike,
Thanks for all the help and advice, feel confident to start the build now as try and get everything clear in my head before actually commencing. I had already decided on foam for the tail/fuz intersection after checking the A8 out in the Imperial War Museum. Must had built it this way to simplify construction, surely induced extra drag having such a blunt leading edge on the fin, still a beautifully menacing machine though. I am going to sheet the fuz with 0.8mm balsa, I know there will be a weight penalty but like the more realistic finish it achieves. I will post the odd photo on this site as I go although it will undoubtably be slow. Love the model posted on as well although agree slightly let down by the cursed fuz/fin join. If being really pedantic, the Ta never carried weapons above the engine, as this model shows, although the spot was earmarked for 2x 20mm cannon in later versions, so this makes it a D9 with the blower intake on the opp side, but you probably already know this.
Again many thanks for the advice, will have to keep practicing with the Easy Pigeon before attempting to fly though!
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