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Old Nov 14, 2012, 02:00 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
I have a shed in the garden for my building (I was ejected from the house) and it has rapidly filled up with models, nearly all 72" span or greater. So building a model this size is very relaxing, even if it is bound to come out too heavy. But then I read about 20" span 4-channel fliers
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:10 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
Well, the wing is very nearly finished, just the spar webbing to do and a couple of minor "fits" when the fuselage is ready to take the wing. I can't decide whether to make it a one-piece model or to have the wing detachable with a peg and bolt.

At this stage it weighs a fraction over 2 oz (or about twice what it would be for the FF version!) but it is nice and stiff and should be good for 4 or 5g when flying.

The ailerons were slightly tricky in that the Dubro wire became very stiff in the tube when it was time to test it. I think this was due to a "big hand" mistake and the tubes were not quite straight in the wing. A smaller gauge wire works fine.

I'm making the torque rod ends from squashed alloy tube. To prevent it twisting on the wire, I slotted the ends so that there is a positive lock. The tube is then glued onto the wire, and another tube will be slid over the top of the first and the whle lot squashed flat in a vice, then a hole drilled in the flat end to take the servo output.

The competition starts officially the day after tomorrow doesn't it?
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 02:52 AM
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Trevorh's Avatar
Hampshire, U.K.
Joined Jun 2008
1,896 Posts
Mike, I've only just caught up with your thread so I'm sorry if this comment is too late to be useful!

Could the binding of the torque rods be relieved by dispensing with most of the tube? I would think that just using short sections of tube, effectively as bushes in the ribs, would give the wire enough support, create less friction and save some weight. Mind you, I've never built anything on this scale so the whole idea of using torque rods that long and thin is all new to me!
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 02:57 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
I do think that would have been the best option, but the current set-up works well enough for me not to consider changing it. The first lot of wire I tried was too flexible but the next size up (I have no idea what the SWG is) is fine for this size of model.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 05:00 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
After the relatively easy start on the wing, I have suddenly come up against some problems with the former sizes in the fuselage and a certain amount of head-scratching in the fin/rudder area. Well, I was warned!

The laminated outlines to fin, rudder and tailplane are easily formed round patterns provided in the kit. I tape round the edge of each pattern, pin it to a board and wrap and pin the three water-soaked strips of 1/32 x 1/16 round, with glue between the laminations of course. It takes a day or so to dry. On bigger models I include a strip of 0.4 ply to beef things up a bit.

The wrongly shaped formers are a bit strange in that it's only F5-8 that are the right shape but the wrong size, and only F9-13 where the slots for the main stringer are ubique*

Oh well, if everthing fitted perfectly it would be like buying a ARTF, wouldn't it?

*Ubique. In the British Army, two sections of it have "Ubique" as their motto. One is the Royal Engineers, where it means "everywhere"; one is the Royal Artillery, where it means "all over the f***ing place"

So I'm told.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 06:00 AM
Or current resident
glewis's Avatar
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Jul 2002
4,826 Posts
That long slender wing sure looks sweet.

About the formers, look at the bright side, at least they are oversize! Shouldn't be too much trouble to trim the outline and keel notch to make them fit.

A comment about laminated outlines, once you get all the strips on, remove the assembly from the board and tape the wood to the form. Toss it in the microwave and nuke it for a minute. The heat cures yellow wood glue almost instantly!

Glenn
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 09:11 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
Great tip Glenn - I would need spousal unit authorisation for that
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Dave K's Avatar
Sebastopol, Ca
Joined Jun 2004
695 Posts
I remember scratching my head and fighting the plan/laser cut parts throughout my build. Not what you would expect from a laser cut kit.

I took a look at my semi built kit to see if I could figure out how I overcame the problems with the fuselage and although I don't remember specifics I somehow got all the parts to work without making more stringer notches. It might be that you need to switch the positions of F12 and F12AL?

As for the overly tall fuselage formers F6 and F7 I think I might have lined up the top edge and let the overage fall below the wing saddle but again I really don't specifically remember.

Also watch out for the wing filet patterns as they are 100% not the shape of the real aircraft. I unfortunately used them and now need to find a way to get them off without destroying my covering
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:20 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
Thanks Dave. I traced the formers off the plan, cut them out of card, checked them against the build and then put them over the ones that were oversize, marked the waste and cut it off. The fit is pretty good now, but it'll need more adjustment when the fuz is off the building board.

I've framed up one side including the fin and rudder, with I hope enough stringers to keep it reasonably straight when it's "in hand".
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:12 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
I took the fuselage side of the board and it has stayed straight. One advantage of the TA 152 fuselage shape is that there are very few curves, and I cracked the stringers to conform to the side profile rather than try to bend them to it.

Dave, according to my 3-view (from "Flugzeugtypen Vol 4 published by Modelsport Verlag GMBH at Baden-Baden) the fillet shape is not too bad: in fact other than the large hatch in front of the cockpit which is not shown at all, the outlines seem accurate.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 12:53 PM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
I'd better start by saying I've had a busy 10 days with house improvements and have not really spent much time on the model. But.

I have had a torrid time with the fuselage and am still undecided as to whether to scrap the whole thing and start again. I don't suppose it is anything to do with Al Lidberg or the kit, just that I am so unused to working at these small sizes! I found that the starboard formers were very difficult to get right and simply didn't take enough trouble over their alignment. As a result, I've had to fix and juggle the stringer angles and routes. I'm carrying on but if I did start again I would make a ladder frame fuselage from 3/32 sq and add kit former edges and tops, cut in 1/16th x 1/18th stringers to support the covering sheet, then sheet them with 1/32 (1/16th in key locations). It would take less time and be a much better structure with very little weight penalty.

Ah well. I have made the tailplane, fin and rudder parts and perhaps the fuz is not looking too bad.

I like to think I didn't have all this trouble with Keil Kraft kits in t't old days, but they probably looked rubbish and my parents were too kind to tell me.

Pictures when I feel they can tell you something!
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:21 AM
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Trevorh's Avatar
Hampshire, U.K.
Joined Jun 2008
1,896 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sopwith Mike View Post
I like to think I didn't have all this trouble with Keil Kraft kits in t't old days, but they probably looked rubbish and my parents were too kind to tell me.
I think our fingers were a little more nimble half a century ago too! Having said that, there's no way I would have dreamt of modifying former shapes in those days - the stringers would have just been pushed into the slots regardless of the resulting lumpy contours. So, yes, I'm sure we set ourselves higher standards now. Whether that is always a good thing is another question!
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:42 AM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
2,752 Posts
Ah, yes. The cruel irony of aging. Just as we become more discerning, our abilities start to deteriorate!

Steve
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:29 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Christchurch,England
Joined Aug 2004
2,653 Posts
After giving Murocflyer some hassle of the FF to RC thread I thought I'd better post some progress.

I am still not really happy with the fuselage, and were I to start again (fat chance!) I'd make a cell containing the battery/servo tray, the wing seat and mount arrangements then add the outside edges of the formers to it, sheeting the whole of the front end with 1/32. I did have the plans enlarged some time ago for a 5' span version, so perhaps I'll approach that one in this rather different manner.

I decided to attach the wing using a tongue at the front and a bolt (perhaps a couple of magnets) at the back. I have to get at the elevator servo somehow!

The tailplane was simple enough to build and very easy to disassemble into it's components when pushing it through the just-too-narrow slot for the first time. 30 minutes rebuilding last night and it was as good as new - better perhaps, with the corner reinforcements.

There are still some stringers to fit and some sheeting for the front of the fuselage, but the covering process can't be far off.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 08:22 PM
Heads up...
RMCCOR7737's Avatar
United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
744 Posts
Looking good Mike. I too like they way it looks now that its layed together.
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