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Old Jan 09, 2013, 11:35 AM
Rhinebeck CD-99,00,01,02
Tom Smith's Avatar
New Bern, NC
Joined Mar 2001
3,074 Posts
Does HK use PayPal. I ordered from them once several years ago and 20 minutes later got a call from my credit card company saying someone in the UK was buying stuff with my card. Coincidence, who knows. I haven't ordered from them since.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 01:41 PM
RC Guy Having Fun!
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Joined Apr 2010
479 Posts
Yup!
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 03:48 PM
I'm slow but I'm expensive
Ken Lilja's Avatar
United States, GA, Snellville
Joined Nov 2003
582 Posts
This is interesting. One could place some solder inside at the leading edge to help chord-wise balance or weight the blades.
Ken

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wright View Post
Aero
I made a new set of blades for my Auto- G by sloting 1/8" balsa into the black plastic leading edge. The step was filled in with 1mm balsa .
Tom.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Trailer Down By The River
Joined Sep 2004
496 Posts
Just ordered one this morning using PayPal from the USA warehouse. Although I didnt order any spare parts. I figure I have time later cause it,s freezing here. What spare parts you guys recommend to have on hand??
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:21 PM
Do you see what I see?
rcoconut's Avatar
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Joined Sep 2006
1,776 Posts
Rotor Blades & that Rotor Blade Grip, but seems like some of the guys are making their own blades as well as a blade grip
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 06:23 PM
Do you see what I see?
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Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Joined Sep 2006
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And did you guys happen to catch this from Nightflyer:

Durafly Auto-Gyro Copter Mods, Tips, and Heavy Wind test. (10 min 0 sec)
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:08 PM
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Tom Wright's Avatar
Joined Feb 2012
877 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Lilja View Post
This is interesting. One could place some solder inside at the leading edge to help chord-wise balance or weight the blades.
Ken
Don't see why not although I used 1.5 mm piano wire as it's easy to push down the plastic l/e section., if replacing the depron blade rear section make sure the overall chord is as original, or a little more. My blades are mounted on a 0.8 mm gf delta plate which makes the set up very robust .
Oh forgot to mention that the servos are not metal gears as Scott said they would be, have now replaced mine with MG90 .

Tom.
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Last edited by Tom Wright; Jan 11, 2013 at 04:14 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 03:56 AM
What could possibly go wrong!!
In Bedfordshire, UK.
Joined Oct 2008
667 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wright View Post
Don't see why not although I used 1.5 mm piano wire as it's easy to push down the plastic l/e section., if replacing the depron blade rear section make sure the overall chord is as original, or a little more. My blades are mounted on a .08 mm delta plate which makes the set up very robust .
Oh forgot to mention that the servos are not metal gears as Scott said they would be, have now replaced mine with MG90 .

Tom.
Hi Tom,

I assume thats 0,8mm plate, I used 1,0mm plate on my Firefly and it works fine, sometimes you just have to use what is to hand

Chas
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 11:32 AM
KlonWarz
Joined Dec 2012
455 Posts
Has anyone yet replaced the dual servo with a single MG servo?
I have not seen discussion on this possibility.
Are two servos only for redundancy?
Would a stronger arm be required on the rotor head mech?
DO the servos conflict with each other for centering and throw?
Tnx
rc
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 11:01 PM
Glow 😡 no no no
Australia, SA, Evanston Park
Joined Mar 2010
4,846 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty case View Post
Has anyone yet replaced the dual servo with a single MG servo?
I have not seen discussion on this possibility.
Are two servos only for redundancy?
Would a stronger arm be required on the rotor head mech?
DO the servos conflict with each other for centering and throw?
Tnx
rc
Yes i am considering putting a mg14 in mine.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 04:58 AM
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Dangerous Dick's Avatar
Cheshire, England
Joined Mar 2001
504 Posts
The rods used on the aileron control are too weak for push and pull individually, the 'stock' control is pretty much pull only - might as well be using closed loop wire instead!

The gears take some punishment in the little servos in a 'tip over' so MG is a good idea but I think you'd struggle with just one servo.

Best thing to do (not always practical I know!) is not to tip it over or bump it and you'll be fine with the ones which come with it

Just as a side note - I've put a layer of 'cross-weave' packing tape top and bottom on my latest 'Y' plastic piece with the thought of it adding a little strength and at least holding onto the blade should the plate get brittle and break. Should make crashing a little less painful?

Cheers,
Richard.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:54 AM
KlonWarz
Joined Dec 2012
455 Posts
OK, that's a start!

MG is called for, and, a quality pushrod.
...I think what it is, is that I'm adverse to two independent servos mechanically connected to the same arm, with opposing functions and possibly different response times and centering.
Yet it apparently works well enough for the Auto-G to be a success...

Does the Ciervo use one servo only for each direction it's head moves?

...and as a side note... :-) Which component of the rotor disk do you wish to be the sacrificial link, Dick? The Y, the blades, the head, or the tower?

I am NEWBIE, don't yet even own an Auto-G, yet I'm able to consider the options...

Has anyone installed a Ciervo head on an Auto-G yet?
There's room for two servos! :-)
rc
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:12 AM
I'm slow but I'm expensive
Ken Lilja's Avatar
United States, GA, Snellville
Joined Nov 2003
582 Posts
Single roll servo

I had a roll servo that was making strange a noise. So I have replaced the 2 servos with a single HS-85MG buried in the fuselage. The pushrod is 2-56 with a carbon tube over it. The servo has 42 in.oz. torque. What I am worried about is the strength of the arm on the head. It is not a reinforced plastic.
I will be putting the last of the paint on it today and will try to post some pictures.
Music wire in the blades. I hadn't thought of that. The problem with solder is that it is easy to stretch and that changes it's diameter. Might be hard to get a consistent weight.
Now to really over complicate things: Replacing the depron in the blades might lead to an opportunity to build some twist into the blades. It is supposed to be WASH IN
Ken

Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty case View Post
Has anyone yet replaced the dual servo with a single MG servo?
I have not seen discussion on this possibility.
Are two servos only for redundancy?
Would a stronger arm be required on the rotor head mech?
DO the servos conflict with each other for centering and throw?
Tnx
rc
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 04:06 PM
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Tom Wright's Avatar
Joined Feb 2012
877 Posts
Ken
I don't think twisting the blade will be of any benefit at all , as they spin up very easily .

Chas.
Thanks for spotting my typo , my Auto-G delta plate is 0.8 mm thick.and not .08 as posted.

All

Lots of air time with my single servo (MG-90) Crane Fly does suggest a single servo conversion on the Auto-G would work well .Although a rod from both ends of the arm would be preferable ,it would be interesting to try one carbon rod ,as the original servo position could still be used.I have replaced the factory servos with MG 90 although other metal geared servos will also do the job.
Tom.
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Last edited by Tom Wright; Jan 11, 2013 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 12:14 AM
Glow 😡 no no no
Australia, SA, Evanston Park
Joined Mar 2010
4,846 Posts
I damaged my Auto G today and need new blades, it was my fault, I think I slowed it up tomuch on a downwind leg and it rolled left into the dirt.
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