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Old Nov 20, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Boondocks, East Coast, USA
Joined Jun 2003
648 Posts
It wasnt much weight but it sure made a difference in flight. I also changed to bigger wheels so that added some weight and maybe some additional drag that helps keep the nose down. That extra weight changed the hang angle too...not a lot but noticeable. And maybe my Nano 3s1300 is lighter than some others brands. I was very happy with the net result and appreciate the feedback from you guys.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 09:55 PM
Sky's not the limit, ground is
skydanz's Avatar
USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Dec 2007
855 Posts
Glad to help sir. Welcome to the "club". These things can be very addictive. Enjoy!

Don
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:14 AM
Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg
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Joined Sep 2005
261 Posts
Finally received mine yesterday (3 weeks to Luxembourg).

Nice finish, quite big.

I spinned the motor by hand, no ratcheting, smooth run. After that, I made the motor do a test run, and it worked fine, powerful.

After plugging of the battery, I spinned the motor again by hand, and noticed it had quite a resistance to spin, just as if the motorbrake were still on. Strange behaviour and I thought that maybe by plugging off the the servo meter, it would go away... no way, the motor refused to spin freely and continued to offer resistance to handspinning. Uh-oh, maybe bad motor, seizing up already.

I was quite upset after that, as I was seeing myself buying another motor.

When I checked again some time later, the phenomena was gone and the motor spinned again freely...

Can anyone check this phenomena on their Auto-G?
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:22 AM
Fatshark Repairs AU/NZ
hpcoolahan's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Yamba
Joined Oct 2008
763 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aender69 View Post
Finally received mine yesterday (3 weeks to Luxembourg).

Nice finish, quite big.

I spinned the motor by hand, no ratcheting, smooth run. After that, I made the motor do a test run, and it worked fine, powerful.

After plugging of the battery, I spinned the motor again by hand, and noticed it had quite a resistance to spin, just as if the motorbrake were still on. Strange behaviour and I thought that maybe by plugging off the the servo meter, it would go away... no way, the motor refused to spin freely and continued to offer resistance to handspinning. Uh-oh, maybe bad motor, seizing up already.

I was quite upset after that, as I was seeing myself buying another motor.

When I checked again some time later, the phenomena was gone and the motor spinned again freely...

Can anyone check this phenomena on their Auto-G?
You will find this with a lot of brushless motors , ive had a few do it.

Basically when you power it and then disconect the power, it must hold a little residual charge in the magnets and motor.
It will go after a while as you noticed.
Its normal , dont worry about it at all.

Cheers
Patrick
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:13 AM
Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg
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Joined Sep 2005
261 Posts
Thak You Patrick!

I never noticed this behaviour on other BL-motors. Maybe my motors are too small or too big...

Strange, I'll try disconnecting the ESC after a run to see if it loosens then, just being curious...
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:54 AM
UK Commercial RPAS Pilot
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United Kingdom, England, Carlisle
Joined Mar 2007
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Don't worry about it, quite common.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:06 AM
Fatshark Repairs AU/NZ
hpcoolahan's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Yamba
Joined Oct 2008
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hey while youre here Scott , parts due in soon ?, eg: the blade mount plate ???

Cheers
Patrick
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Last edited by hpcoolahan; Nov 21, 2012 at 04:14 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:55 AM
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Austria
Joined Jan 2004
7,708 Posts
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Originally Posted by phoenix racing View Post
Don't worry about it, quite common.
Anyhow ...

Normally with enough "brushless motor" feeling ... should be quite easy to differentiate a "magnetic" resistance ... to a mechanic resistance

The first is not a problem ... some brushless motor have more then other, some like some 2 poles inrun has almost none

The second .. is a problem ... it means something is wrong ... normally a bad bearing, or some dirt somewhere in the motor

Clearly once the ESC is power up ... it is a different story ...



Anyhow ... the supplied motor in the PNF Auto-G is looking a nice oversized motor for this bird ... it is also totally exposed, so free to get lot of cooling ... so ... it sound like it should work for ever (excluding ball bearing life)
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 08:21 AM
Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg
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Joined Sep 2005
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...I was impressed by the beefy motor..., but then again, it isn't the typical parkflyer layout
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 09:49 AM
UK Commercial RPAS Pilot
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United Kingdom, England, Carlisle
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpcoolahan View Post
hey while youre here Scott , parts due in soon ?, eg: the blade mount plate ???

Cheers
Patrick
I am sure they will be available soon, I will chase up an ETA.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 01:35 PM
Fatshark Repairs AU/NZ
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Australia, NSW, Yamba
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Thankyou Scott .
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:18 PM
|Taranis|
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United States, WA, Richland
Joined May 2009
6,337 Posts
Speaking of parts.

I wanted to make my own hub part for the blade grip assembly -- seeing as they are back ordered forever. The hub part apparently is suppose to have some flex, so the first I made using plywood and carbon fiber was an adventure.

This time I scanned the extra that I'd kept as a template and made an adobe illustrator file so I could cut my own using a laser cutter. If anybody wants the .ai file to cut their own it will temporarily be available at this link https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17847149/flex.ai If some time in the future somebody wants the file PM me and if it's not too far in the future and I still have the file I'll be glad to send it to you. I included two photos, one with the original on a tissue for contrast and the copy on black cloth .. and the second one with the copy stacked on top of the original.

Cutting these with a laser cutter is definitely the way to go. I cut three out in minutes -- but I probably took two hours to fab the one from plywood and laminate it with CF.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:24 PM
JOHN 3:16
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Central Ohio
Joined Feb 2008
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Originally Posted by scott page View Post
Cutting these with a laser cutter is definitely the way to go. I cut three out in minutes
What material did you use this time?
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:47 PM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Christchurch
Joined Sep 2011
66 Posts
Got mine yesterday.Pleasantly surprised at the size,it looked smaller in the pics.A couple of small nuts and screws knocking about in the box,but I'm sure I'll find a place for them.
I'm going to increase wheel size,and make a spare hub blade carrier before I break the spare!20 or so years ago,the hubs were commonly made from polypropylene,such as ice cream or paint bucket lid.I would also prefer a steerable tail wheel,as i can't run to save my life.So rog will be the normal take off.
The Gyro was supposed to be an xmas prezzy,but I'm allowed to play now
I ordered a spare 3-blade prop,maybe I should have got some spare blades.Then again,they are simple to make from light balsa.
HK has to fit them in a large box,which ups the postage.Not hk's fault,but it increases the price of the blades by quite a bit.
I also got a couple of Turnigy 3-cell 1300mah packs,and a few spare servos to make up the weight limit.No point in wasting freight cost.That's my story,and I'm sticking to it
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 09:25 PM
|Taranis|
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United States, WA, Richland
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy70 View Post
What material did you use this time?
I used the plastic top from a plastic box. Seems pretty flexible to me, but I'll go with it.

Can anybody tell me what Coning is?
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