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Old Jan 07, 2013, 03:55 PM
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Here we go again with the fuse covering... After both yellow side areas were covered it is time for the turtledeck and some corners...
Once finished all the yellow next step is the bottom met. red. so we used again our manila folders pattern for cutting the film pieces and a white colour sharpie for plastic surfaces, as with white ink it is better to see the marks over a dark film background. ....
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 03:39 PM
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After some days too busy letīs posting a little bit...
We continued covering the fuse... After the yellow upper background was covered we did with the met. red bottom scheeme. As before, we used the manila paper patterns for helping cutting the monokote and saving some material. On both sides and bottom, met. red was overlaped about 2-3 mm. over the bottom yellow. Please use a new and sharp blade for cutting helped with a true straighedge for reach those clean cutting lines. Curved lines were cutted free hand so use extreme care ....
After all met. red were ironed, we did a new patter for the orange sides pinstripping... Actually we used the same colours on the fuse like on the wing, but opaques and mets. instead of transparents...
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 03:48 PM
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Letīs go again...
We marked on both sides of the fuse the outlines for the orange pinstriping and instead of using the TF. Woodpecker Tool we did a lot of punching holes on the yellow monokote with a pin using care not to pin outside the lines.
These holes will serve to avoid the bubles dones by the gas originated with the activation of the adhesive of the film when it is heated by the iron or air atrapped between these two coats of film... Also use just enough heat to stick both coats. After the orange pieces were ironed you can go again over the edges with the iron to secure them but please take care not distorsion the straigh lines with more than enough heat...
And thatīs all for today folks. Hope tomorrow have some time for posting after flying... Have a nice weekend and happy flights...
Manolo.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:03 PM
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Okay, I'm just about convinced that I should just send my Oly II SX to you when the construction is completed and have you cover it Manolo!! Nicely done, and I can only hope that mine comes out as well as yours did.

I'm almost at the point of beginning to think of color schemes, but I don't want to get too far ahead of myself. I need to put the upper leading edge sheeting on next, then the wingtips, then it's almost time for final sanding!

More to come..., and thanks for posting your great photos of the process!

Cheers,

Rob
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robh View Post
Okay, I'm just about convinced that I should just send my Oly II SX to you when the construction is completed and have you cover it Manolo!! Nicely done, and I can only hope that mine comes out as well as yours did.

I'm almost at the point of beginning to think of color schemes, but I don't want to get too far ahead of myself. I need to put the upper leading edge sheeting on next, then the wingtips, then it's almost time for final sanding!

More to come..., and thanks for posting your great photos of the process!

Cheers,

Rob
.... Tx a lot for that gentle words mate. If you will live more closer to me that should be no problem.... Anyway your Ole is almost framed... and thatīs is good news...
Actually, just now Iīm involved on the building of the third sailplane of my " Youth Saga "...:. A E-conversion Mirage; " El Mirage " as will be named. Another spanish modeler and me are building to of them at the same time.
By the way this morning I went to fly my first of the actual e-conversions, the BOT, so .... just for sharing...
Manolo.

BLADE RUNNER BOT (7 min 49 sec)
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 03:04 PM
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Letīs posting a little bit... After we finished the orange pinstriping job it is time to finish covering all these exposed wood. And the last piece of covering it is the canopy hatch.
We choosed a contrast colour against the calid colours pattern and also match with the wing stripping and other similars that plan to do on the tail colours separation lines.
We choosed german oracover carbon fiber to looks like the Alien head or modern look as you preffer for the canopy and on a supreme masochism act we covered the full canopy with a single piece of oracover instead of one for each side and another for the top... a real chagenge but with patience the goal was done.... Wow... no seams to see and Iīm very agree with the final product. Hope good buddy Renaud on these heavens skies will be OK too with this mod and hatch finish...
The interior canopy frame adjust it to the fuse and the magnets for hold down, cause it is a good things for service no to use any tool at all...
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 03:22 PM
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Here we go again... Temporally we checked the flowing lines of the nose area with the spinner and be OK... that was the idea about...
Now we leave the nose by now and went again to the tail. If we see closely with attention the old Airtronics adds of the Ole2, we will see on the colours separation lines a black stripe ; maybe for protection of the seams..,, in the wing and more slimmer on the tail also.
Weīre going to reproduce this neat detail on our Oly, but instead of black trim we choosed to match with our wing and canopy, to cut 3mm. wide stripes from the teutonic oracover carbon looks...
We also opened the cut-out for the hinges and tail is ready to glue ....
Cheers buddies.
Manolo.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 02:52 AM
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Thank you for sharing Manolo, I have learned a lot in this thread.

Jay
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 03:09 PM
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Thank you for sharing Manolo, I have learned a lot in this thread.

Jay
Tx a lot Jay, thatīs the true reason of this blog....
And said that to friend Jay, lets continue posting a little bit of our Ole finish... We installed the Klett hinges using 30 m. epoxy. We used also a toohhpick for aplying the epoxy and alcohol and a cloth for cleaning any smearing from the epoxy... Now we used also some epoxy to coat the from firewall area overlapping the epoxy coat over the monokote on the nose ring. This way epoxy protect the wood and film from peeling...
We aligned the horizontal stab and traced the fuse base outline for cutting the monokote over 1mm. or so inside the painted perimeter.
Also we glued the hinges in the rudder.
We ironed again the area near the stab central bay cause we must cutting this area to glue the rudder....
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 09:58 AM
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Letīs continue posting a little bit... after we cut the covering for wood to wood bond of the horizontal stab and the fuse stab base we are going to do the aerodinamic seal of the hinge gap. This is a process that I like to do on all my airplanes, of any kind, scale, aerobat, 3D, from giant scale gas models to little electrics, sailplanes o whatever... It is amazing how so little can improve so much the performance and response of a model airplane. It improve the response of the controls, at high and low speed, keeps de model tracing more straigh, reduces turbulence, add security to the hinge line and lastly ... it improves the look of the model. at least for me...
This way we cut a 2 2cm. wide strip of monokote, take dimensions for the lengh, round a little the corners to avoid peeling with time. double by half as itīs alineate the strip itself when ironing, deflect the control surface at it most extreme position and then iron the strip with the Trim Iron. We like to do on both sides for added security. After that we cut also de central stab bay to acept the vertical stab and put some strips of tape for protect the monokote from any epoxy that could smear when we will glue the vertical stab into the slot...
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 03:42 PM
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Here we go again... We glued the vertical stab into the central slot on the horizontal stab. Be sure that both stabs are at 90 degrees one from the other. We removed the protection tapes before glue dries, clean with alcohol and a cloth some little epoxy smears and ironed when dry the epoxy, some strips of yellow monokote to do a invisible joint... even with transp. yellow.
Now the tail is ready to glue so we put some 30 min. epoxy on the stab base and the rear fuse slot for the rudder post and glued ... cheking all time until epoxy cures that tail is well aligned with the fuse and wing that was also screw to the fuse.
We take some coffe and saw our new pride and joy.... humm. this thing looks like the oldie Ole..., but somewhat different ... that was the idea... maiden flight it is soon...... Aquila and Bird of Time ships have now another mate..., not too bad for six month building between both sailplanes... Isthums Models electric Mirage will be next and the " Ancient Saga " will finish... so after these oldies gliders will be the time to add a couple spandaus and Von Ritchtoffen to that Red Baron DR-1 and fly..... to many airplanes... to few time....and times flies...
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 08:25 PM
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Nicely done Manolo!! She looks great, and I'm betting she will look just as fantastic in the air. Please let us know how the maiden flight goes, which I imagine will be wonderful.

Thanks again for posting all of the great photographs of your progress.

Rob
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by robh View Post
Nicely done Manolo!! She looks great, and I'm betting she will look just as fantastic in the air. Please let us know how the maiden flight goes, which I imagine will be wonderful.

Thanks again for posting all of the great photographs of your progress.

Rob
Tx a lot again Robh..., really this decoration pattern is very visible and looks fine in the air, at least for me. .....
After the epoxy for gluing the tail is well dry, we took off the wing again and traced a straigh line in the bottom of the rudder to flow the met. red of the fuse also in the rudder. We did a lot of pin holes inside the line area for avoid bubles and then ironed the met. red. also we sealed the hinge gap with a little strips of red in this area.
With this operation now we can say that the covering job it is finished. We keeped all the scraps of covering inside a plastic bag and marked with the sailplane name. This way if from time to time we need to do a little reparation on the covering we just chek the plastics bags of each model and have at hand all monokote colours used...
We used the soldering iron to open the two holes in the bottom rear of the fuse to fix the landing skid and glued it with epoxy. Also we used mini control horns from Carl Goldberg ...
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 09:03 AM
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Letīs go a little bit more... now it is time to do the rods ends, keepers and install servos. We like to use for screwing servos the Dubro allen head screws... also used some lock nut glue for added security... for the elevator link we preffer to use a ball link instead of the normal link for smoother movement..., all surpluss screws for holding the horn were cut with dremel...
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 09:07 AM
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Ok buddies, letīs continue a little bit.. After we did the pushrods and checked that they did their job without any bind or excesive friction, now is the time to install again de motor behínd the firewall. We used 1 cm. long 3mm. allen head screws and coned alum. washers. A little lockthread glue is a safety touch. Care must be taken to not push too much force when bolting the screws and crushing the wood... Also a lot of caution mus be done so motor cables doesnīt touch the spinning bell so we passed the cables by the hole opened on the first bulkhead side, and fitted on that position with some foam after recheking again that cables doesnīt interfere with motor.,
After the motor were installed we fixed the prop adapter and the nose cone. The one that we used is from HK. 45 mm. diameter with a alum. hollowed plate and a plastic cone that may be cutted for a vented cone for using on warm weather as the spanish summer use to be. Now, on winter time I think that actually a vented one it is not neccesary so by now weīre using a black one without cutting the peack of the cone.
We doesnīt install the folding prop till the end of the adjusting of radio installation and all the stuff for safety purposes...
With the cone installed things looks cool
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