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Old Dec 18, 2012, 08:04 PM
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Great work! I really like the gussets buy the spoilers, a much more finished look.
Where did you get the pilot figure in your BOT?
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by doc993 View Post
Great work! I really like the gussets buy the spoilers, a much more finished look.
Where did you get the pilot figure in your BOT?
Hi Doc993, welcome to the build-blog. I got the BOT´S pilot on a hobby shop in Seville, about 15 years ago. It was manufactured by Multiplex, but I suppose that now it is discontinued. It was called Pepito, if I remember well....
When he was younger , I installed on board of a Great Plane´s Spectra..., till one day another flying buddy turn on his radio with the same frecuency that mine and crashed. My flying mate gently would like to pay me for another glider, but I said him it was repairable and just keeped ordering to US another canopy...
Meanwhile the canopy was ordered I rebuild the Spectra and did a similar build up balsa canopy like we did righ now to the Oly. Last spring during the BOT build I checked the spare, brand new and that way never used Spectra canopy and with minors mods it fits very well on the Bird of Time, so if the canopy fit, the pilot also must fit too... so I searched to Pepito on the bottom of some scrap boxes till he was founded and called againg to the active duty.....
I love scale too, so sometimes... I play with my mind and things begin to flow, even on gliders....Dave Thornburg said he was inspired by a poem of Omar Kheyham´s Rubayat, to name his beautiful bird, so .... this was a fountain of inspiration to me. On my canopy interiors, many times I try to say something, to tell a story if you preffer so on the BOT´S canopy, this time I aspired to represent at Pepito like Thornburg at the controls flying between blue skies and white clouds and he has a Rubayat´s book near to read his poems meanwhile he is searching for thermals....
If you want to know about my BOT and other beautiful built brothers here is one of the best links avaliable...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...331363&page=54
Tx again for your kindly words and excuse me for not posting sooner....
Best regards.
Manolo.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 12:05 PM
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And said that to friend Doc let´s continue a little bit with our Oly build....
After the spoilers work was finished, at least by now, we went to work on the wing mounting. We choosed a bolt on option as said, so for the screws on the rear we cut a reinforcement on plywood 2mm. wide and glued on the top of the wing halves, near the trailing edge as a extra reinforcement for the screws. No it is not neccesary add the short music wire on the trailing edge as the original desing.
On the fuse, we cut some 1/64 plywood pieces and glued on both fuse sides, cause on this area there is a balsa interior reinforcement were it is the joing of the front plywood cone and the balsa tail cone. I doesn´t like to glue the screws block over balsa so that is the reason of this little fuse sides plywood reinforcemen.
We did a block of hard balsa to drill the holes and tap for the screws bolt on and a superior 3mm. wide light ply tray...
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 12:15 PM
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Let´s go again with the bolt on wing... After we glued on the fuse the block mounting bolts we also glued on the top of the wing halves each reinforcement near the trailing edge.
After that we drilled very carefully and paralell to the bottom of the wing the holes for the front dowels, they must protude over 3-5 mm. over the front face of the main fuse bulkhead. We drilled before with a 3mm. drill the leading edge, and later we changed to another 6mm. drill and did a fine adjustment with the dremel and a round sander tool....
After that things are ready to glying and drill the holes for the bolts and tapping but this will be on another sesión....
Cheers.
Manolo.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 05:40 PM
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Thanks for the pilot info.Your build is stunning.It is very nice to see people from all over the world building sailplanes like I do.I have been following Stratigo's build (in Greece). He's building a Mirage.I'm building a Mirage next after the Crimson. Happy holiday's.Keep up the good work. A lot of people are enjoying your thread.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by doc993 View Post
Thanks for the pilot info.Your build is stunning.It is very nice to see people from all over the world building sailplanes like I do.I have been following Stratigo's build (in Greece). He's building a Mirage.I'm building a Mirage next after the Crimson. Happy holiday's.Keep up the good work. A lot of people are enjoying your thread.
Tx a lot again for your gentle words Doc, I follow too the superb build-blog of Stratigo´s Mirage and ...¡¡¡ Bingo...¡¡¡¡¡ After I finish this project my idea is to build also a electric conversion Mirage from a Isthmus Models short kit... so I´m seeing very close all Mirage´s threads...
Actually, now I´m not totally involved in sailplanes..., but I love the freedom and beauty of those graceful wings soarings over the sky... and my first steps with radio-control was with gliders, ....
I build one from a Hi Flight kit many years ago as pure glider and still is in perfect flying condition A true joy to see and fly.... I sold to Paco, my flying buddy and he keep it flying and as new..., only a couple of wing joiners broken on some not soo good landing. My idea as said is to do a electric conversion with mods very close to what we did with the Bot and the Oly. This three sailplanes and a Airtronics Aquila; ( still flying as pure glider ), I flew on the eighties and my idea was to bring then to " life ", with modern equipment .
Merry Chtmas. and God bless you all.

Manolo.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 08:29 AM
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Ok buddies, let´s continue a little bit with our Ole build.... We glued with 30 minutes epoxy the front dowels, and put between the wing and the main former a little of plastic paper and smeared also a little vaseline on the holes of the bulkead to avoid any epoxy could glue the fuse and wing..., it is very difficult to leave home this way....
After that and with the wing totally aligned with the fuse, / double check that.../, we marked and drilled on the rear for the mounting screws...
What I do is before to drill to the right angle so the screws heads will be flush with the surface of the wing. I use a 3mm. drill and leave the drill on the wood. It keeps the wing straigh and avoid moving and then with another drill bit, we drilled the other hole, then went to another 5mm. drill and tapped for the Great Planes plastic screws.
After one screw is finished then we went to finish the other. Later when the wing will be removed we added some fine ciano into the taps for harder the wood...
We take some coffee while resting and see our Oly...., because now it begins to looks like the real thing....
Merry Chtmas. buddies.
Manolo.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Well buddies... we´re finishing the framing...just add some Hobbico balsa filler on some imperfections and over the center sheeting and plywood reinforcement mainly to keep the things flow and sanding... sanding.... and sanding....
For the tail skid we used the one called plans, made by Carl Goldberg... we drilled for the two pegs and marked the are around so not to sand over this cause we want that the skid have a flat area....
We went outside and spend some hours and elbow grease; ( no problem on that...).
I love nice covering jobs, and a smooth surface is the begining of a good covered model, so I think that monokote film as the last paint coat ......
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:01 PM
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We glued the pine reinforcement spar at the begining of the top fuse sheeting, close to the wing and leave over 1mm. gap to have room for the covering.
The area close to the wing bolts needs some coats of filler to smooth the heigh of the plywood reinforcement and match with the fuse also on this area so it is better to do on two or three times and instead of a wide coat of filler do the job on more slimmer coats... A good hint is to use the point of the spatule to mark the cutting line over the filler when it is not fully hard cause now is easier to find the righ cut.
After that please change the sanding papper on these blocks and go ready to the sanding time.... We used 120 to do the airfol on the pine leading edges and overall corner sanding near the plywood front fuse cone, after that we went to 180, 200, 400 and 600 grain. At this time the wood is really smooth and begin to looks like a satin finish....
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:15 PM
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And after some hours and a couple of sesions of sanding time this is our reward.... one of the not so boxy look old O2 we ever seen.
My idea is that a thermal sailplane extructure on this stage is a joy to see and a pitty that sun doesn´t shine over these long and graceful wing showing their spars and ribs.... we must work on this when covering..., aspire a classic covering and try to keep that nice sensation of see the ligh like trough a gotical cathedral big windows when the sailplane flies betwen the sun and us cause by those transparents covering jobs of the old school; ( Yeap... as you all know I´m a nostalgic....if not I never begin to build again these classical beauties... ). Wishing that every flight will be a travel in time as the scratch build was on the bench...., show part of the rc history to newcomers..., a little tired of so many ARF. Nice to change from time to time...
We want to cover in the traditional Oly II scheeme but mixed with a more modern touch..., lets see...
Actually, not really finished the frame yet, cause we´re going to glassing the front belly and install the magnets to hold down the canopy-hatch....
Manolo.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:46 AM
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After some sanding time..., please now that we are outside I removed as much balsa dust as possible, I used also the vacuum home cleaner too, and even latter a monokote dust rag...
We removed the motor cause by now it is not neccesary that it will be installed neither desirable, because we´re going to glassing the front fuse and paint the inside with a mix of slow curing epoxy mixed at 50 por cent alcohol....
I understand that the good of Renaud said that it is not neccesary at all to glassing the fuse, but I preffer that the added weigh will be on the strengh of the frame and not dead weigh to get the correct CG, also our runway is very abrasive and from time to time we plan also to fly our Ole II on our coastal slope dunes...and preffer to enjoy the extra security of a glassed fuse, at least the belly and a little of the round front corners, firewall and the lower area of the front plywood cone...
This way we cut a piece of ligh fiberglass, painted the area with finishing epoxy added the cloth and when dry, the surpluss were cutted and sanded as smooth as possible so it will be not visible the area glassed when covering will be added.
We painted as said before the inside of the fuse from the main bulkead to the firewall and also added some strips of glass cloth on the corner and inside the firewall. A light epoxy diluited coat was also added to the inside of the canopy hatch...
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:06 AM
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I like to use magnet to hold down canopies and hatches, or a mix of both like we´re going to do on this project...
We used now a total of eight magnets to hold the canopy; two couples on both sides. We cutted the trays for the magnets, glued four to the bottom of the canopy frame and others four well aligned on both sides of the fuse.
The power of the magnets are so strong that you can hold the fuse by the canopy and doesn´t fall out...... anyway my idea is to add another three magnets in the front... just in case, but we´re going to wait till the model will be covered.
And we have finish the frame building, so go now and clean and remove all that balsa dust, and please, do it the best that you may your workbench and around, use the vacuum and do a neat job..., you and your wife will be glad with that...
For a good covering job the working area must be very clean and every speck of dust between the frame and the covering will be visible latter so .... I got a new 3mm. cartoon paper big piece that cover my bench and it is a good area for the blade cutting as saves the file of the blade and leaves really sharp cutties on the film...Let´s take our time and do a honest covering job...
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 01:32 PM
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Ok buddies, let´s start the covering job.... we did another vacuum to the extructure, and used a brand new monokote tack cloth to clean as much as possible of dust....
The idea in the color scheeme is to keep the vintage look mainly but with some modern touch..., like our point of view on this project. Wing and tail group will have practically the same classic covering pattern that Airtronics show on the " art box " of their kits and adds in the reviews....Main changes will be on the fuse; instead of the full yelllow covering and some black stripes we are going to change a little..., my fountain of inspiration here is the colored Flash Gordon hero spaceships on the comics of my youth or the Star Wars Naboo fighters if you will....: a full dark Alien head look will be the idea on the canopy-hatch as opossiton of the so calid colours scheeme ...D
This way we´re going to use seven tones of colours, but mainly four of them, Red, Yellow, Orange and Carbon-fiber look that gives the touch of modernity and vintage look at the same time... Nice looking airplanes flies better ¡¡¡¡.... no doubt.
Also we will use a mix of Top-Flite Supermonokote transparents colours on the main pannels wing and trans. red Oracover on the outers pannels.
Fuse will be yellow, met. red, orange and some touch of carbon-look...
Spoilers hinge will be also made with strips of Monokote and the gap between stabs and elevator and rudder will be sealed with monokote also.
The covering job it self we began by covering the elevators. Mainly during all the job, we used more the Top Flite Trim Iron than the normal iron. Lower surface is covered before than upper ones and we leave a gap of 3mm. After elevator was covered we opened the cut-out for the Klett hinges and checked but not glued yet...
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 01:55 PM
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After elevator was covered we continued with the horizontal stab, vertical and rudder. We covered before with yellow, then with trans. orange monokote and last the red areas. Colours were overlapped from lighter ones to darker ones. and always if possible over 3-4 mm. or so of overlaped and fitted to the inners side of the antitorsion spars.
Extreme caution was used on not distorsion or warp the so more well delicate and light tail structure. Heat was only aplicated when both sides were covered and only as much as neccesary and no more. Also no heat-gun was used at all, what we did is to flow or glide as you like with the normal iron over the surface without touching, leaving over 1mm. or 2 between the iron and covering surfaces. Also keep out of the changing colours lines when the tension was added with the iron, because you could activate the adhesive of the joint and mar all the covering...
Take your time... and enjoy this time on the bench like you will do when this ship is flying.... as german aviation pioneer Otto Lilienthal said " A idea is nothing, build a plane is something. One flight it is all...".
And that´s all for today folks...
" See ya again soon..."
Manolo.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Nice work Manolo!!! It's a pleasure to watch you in action. Following closely....

Rob
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