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Old Oct 25, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Help!
Accu-Glo II Problem

Just received one of these used from another RCG member and cannot get the glow driver to output enough current to light the plug. The instructions are a bit vague as they want the plug connected, start the motor THEN make the adjustments. From what I can tell I could spin the motor all day and it would not fire.

I've checked both measurements with a glow plug connected and the continuity light checks out, the COLD and HOT indicators will change when the recessed pot is adjusted. The output remains approx 1.5V with below 0.9A. So far this has remained the same and there is NO audible alteration with the plug connected or removed or pot adjusted.

The Deluxe Power Panel I removed at least lit the plug and you could hear the high pitched squeal alter with the dial. The reason I upgraded was the ease to determine by feel the direction of the fuel pump and the ready status of the source battery.

Does anyone have an idea if this one lights the plug dry ,(removed from the engine) or only if it detects compression/fuel on the plug filament?

If anyone has a schematic or information on function I would appreciate it.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:44 AM
Dave the Rave
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http://manuals.hobbico.com/hca/hcap0306-manual.pdf
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:11 AM
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I read that and stated the part regarding the glow driver was a bit confusing, specifically instructions 4 through 6. There is nothing specific as to what you would get with the plug removed:

1. Connect a glow plug clip’s banana plugs to the banana jacks
located on the left side of the panel marked “AUTOMATIC GLOW
POWER MANAGEMENT.” Connect the opposite end of the glow
plug clip to the glow plug mounted in the engine.

2. The green “CONTINUITY” LED should light to confirm current is
being delivered to the glow plug. If the red CONTINUITY LED is lit,
it indicates either the glow plug is fouled, or a problem exists with
the connection between the glow clip plug and the glow plug. Refer
to the “Troubleshooting” section for further information.

3. For a moment, ignore the red and green glow heat indicator LEDs
at the top of this section and attempt to start the engine.

4. With the engine started and running normally – locate the
adjustment dial that is recessed inside the faceplate directly above
the CONTINUITY LEDS. Using a flat screwdriver slowly rotate the
dial just enough to make both the “HOT” and “COLD” glow heat
LEDs at the top become lit. This indicates the flood point setting.
Refer to the “Troubleshooting” section if problems exist when
starting the engine.

5. Turn the adjustment dial in the opposite direction until the “COLD”
glow heat LED is completely off and the “HOT” glow heat LED is
completely on. This is the normal glow heat point. Now, the glow
heat system is calibrated to your particular glow plug.

6. Once a successful start has been achieved, there should be no need
to re-adjust the glow heat setting. Accu-Glo MkII’s circuitry will
automatically maintain proper plug heat in the event that the
engine becomes flooded by supplying more power to burn the
excess fuel. Accu-Glo MkII will also automatically adjust glow heat
to account for hot and cold temperatures, and even low field box
battery voltage. Re-adjustment of the automatic glow heat circuit
might be necessary if changes are made to the engine, fuel type or glow plug type.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 07:42 AM
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I've been under the weather the last few days so nothing to report until now.

I did track at least some of the problem to the power FET. The IRC44Z had a broken gate lead at the body itself, (a sign of physical stress, not magic smoke) so I replaced it with one from a spare power panel.

This at least got some response as my ammeter immediately jumps to 1A with the plug connected and you can hear the driver circuit. However, turning the pot still has no effect and I would have to desolder some main power feeds to have a boo at the hidden side.

The pot is connected directly into an IC mounted to that side, so I cannot get any ident. I do see some response when testing the legs, but from the amp flow change and the way that it works I believe that is only the driver circuits for the different indicator LED's.

This is about the extent of my experience and I need help to determine where else to go.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 07:22 PM
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Ordered a new panel. Should be here early next week.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 01:13 PM
"MAYONNAISE"
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Hi,

I received mine last week ...

the only thing missing ( badly missing) is an ammeter and/or a voltmeter !!!

I had built such a regulated glo-driver some years ago,( a 1975 dated scheme ) and the help of a RMS voltmeter and ammeter ( both ! ) is really helpful to verify everything is Ok with the Glow Plug ...

considering a ( High capacity )NiCad generally is fine ... set point should be easily found comparing the plug coil colour between Nicad and panel ...

Alain
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 03:18 PM
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If you notice there is a voltmeter to register the main 12V power supply.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 03:50 AM
"MAYONNAISE"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar429 View Post
If you notice there is a voltmeter to register the main 12V power supply.
Seems the voltmeter ( mine ) is intended to show the Glowplug applied voltage ...

Alain
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:32 AM
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Not sure if we are talking the same unit. The AccuGlo II has the LED bar in the upper left that displays supply voltage in the approx 12V range.

The only status for the glow plug are continuity and HOT or COLD LED's when the pot is adjusted.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar429 View Post
Not sure if we are talking the same unit. The AccuGlo II has the LED bar in the upper left that displays supply voltage in the approx 12V range.

The only status for the glow plug are continuity and HOT or COLD LED's when the pot is adjusted.
That's why I told you an ammeter and a voltmeter are missing ... as they could be more than useful !!!
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:54 AM
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New panel arrived and same story. Had greater voltage and current to the plug, but was not adjustable and remained half of necessary to get the plug hot enough to fire. Called Hobbico support and they are sending me a THIRD unit?

So far two for two. Asked if they could test the panel before shipping, but I think they come from different locations and the order had already been electronically placed by the end of the call.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 10:36 AM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Alternate Glow Plug Circuit

I am also looking for a glow igniter circuit. I found Tony van Roon's circuit with an improvement from Thomas Scherrer.

Would these two designs work better? I have not built either, but am considering it rather than buying the Hobbico power panel.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 02:44 PM
"MAYONNAISE"
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Hi, Cougar

I do not understand what happens to you ...

I recently received mine straight from the states ... ( I wanted to see that thing !!! )

got a little run this morning with dozens of Glow plugs from Cold to Very hot ( OS, Enya, Super Tigre, Rossi, Fox, ... ) everything fine !!!
with each glow plug , I directly got a nice yellow/orange colour ... no need any trimming ( or just VERY little to set it " as in the manual " ) just my control ampmeter showing current is different from a glowplug to the other.

My source was a 15v/3A current/Voltage controlled supply, so, not an extraordinary strong source ...

soooo ... I'm very surprised it doesn't want to work for you ...

Alain
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Both previous units showed a fixed output. The first had the center leg of the pot not soldered into the board and even with that corrected had a fixed volt and amp output to the plug. The lights would change from "COLD" to "HOT", but that is on a separate comparator.

The new panel had twice the volt and amp output, just barely enough to heat the wire. Again, adjusting the pot had no effect on output.

I to checked both against our lab power supply at work which monitors amp flow. That was how I confirmed there was no change in the current while a voltmeter on the plug gave me that reading.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 08:53 AM
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So the warranty unit finally arrived and LO! reads exactly the same. (current rests solidly at 0.5A). The call to Hobbico had someone with even less knowledge of how these work.

My questions were inclined towards me not interpreting the instructions properly. I know the unit has to be adjusted once the engine is started, but wonder if the low output showing on a free plug will change once it tries to fire an active motor. Looks like we will finally have some decent weather this weekend so I will drag something outside to experiment.
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