HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:08 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benf207 View Post
I tried moving the wires around but nothing seemed different. Are the solder joints visible if I take the motor out?
No. They are under the shrink tubing where the ESC connects to the motor. And even if you could see it you couldn't necessarily tell if there was a bad connection.
turnerm is offline Find More Posts by turnerm
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:10 PM
Registered User
Fairfield County, Connecticut
Joined Dec 2009
819 Posts
Oh okay. Any other suggestions?
Benf207 is offline Find More Posts by Benf207
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:15 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benf207 View Post
Oh okay. Any other suggestions?
Have you tried rebinding? Do you have another battery to try? Can you try your current battery on a different motor?

Also, try making sure the ESC has plenty if airflow.
turnerm is offline Find More Posts by turnerm
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:26 PM
Registered User
Fairfield County, Connecticut
Joined Dec 2009
819 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
Have you tried rebinding? Do you have another battery to try? Can you try your current battery on a different motor?

Also, try making sure the ESC has plenty if airflow.
I have tried rebinding and the only other batteries I have are Gens Ace 450mah 25C, but the problem still exists. Should I try getting a higher C battery?
Benf207 is offline Find More Posts by Benf207
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:30 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benf207 View Post
I have tried rebinding and the only other batteries I have are Gens Ace 450mah 25C, but the problem still exists. Should I try getting a higher C battery?
Those batteries should be fine. I assume you have more than one to try and they are both yielding the same results?

If so, you have a bad motor. I'd call them back again.
turnerm is offline Find More Posts by turnerm
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:37 PM
Registered User
Fairfield County, Connecticut
Joined Dec 2009
819 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
Those batteries should be fine. I assume you have more than one to try and they are both yielding the same results?

If so, you have a bad motor. I'd call them back again.
Yeah, I will try and call them back, but when I spoke with them they told me that flying 3D shouldn't require the throttle to be blipped like that and that if I wanted further support I would need to get an E-flite battery.
Benf207 is offline Find More Posts by Benf207
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:39 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benf207 View Post
Yeah, I will try and call them back, but when I spoke with them they told me that flying 3D shouldn't require the throttle to be blipped like that and that if I wanted further support I would need to get an E-flite battery.
That's a BS response. Or maybe I misunderstand the problem... It looked like when you held full throttle that the motor quit working. Is that right?
turnerm is offline Find More Posts by turnerm
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:42 PM
Registered User
Fairfield County, Connecticut
Joined Dec 2009
819 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
That's a BS response. Or maybe I misunderstand the problem... It looked like when you held full throttle that the motor quit working. Is that right?
No, it's when I move the stick from low to high quickly it cuts out. If I move it up slowly it works.
Benf207 is offline Find More Posts by Benf207
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:43 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Sounds like maybe your ESC timing is just not set right, then.
tracknoob is online now Find More Posts by tracknoob
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:49 PM
Registered User
Fairfield County, Connecticut
Joined Dec 2009
819 Posts
How do you go about changing it?
Benf207 is offline Find More Posts by Benf207
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 07:53 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benf207 View Post
No, it's when I move the stick from low to high quickly it cuts out. If I move it up slowly it works.
This has nothing to do with the battery.

The motor is bad. You've tried two ESC's.
turnerm is offline Find More Posts by turnerm
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 08:09 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
You've tried two ESC's.
I did not review his specific history (or even look at the video) so if he has tried two, unlikely ESC.... unless he entered then altered prog mode for both.

And yet, if it actually runs fine at high throttle, runs fine when slowly advanced, and turns off okay, then I still tend to suspect timing!

So, just for reference, the Edge 540 QQ uses EFLA7300, which is the same as the Zero. I see no unique programming instructions or manual for that ESC, but assuming it is like the EFLA1010 10 A speed controller, there IS a manual, and it is attached for reference on how to adjust timing.
tracknoob is online now Find More Posts by tracknoob
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 08:14 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
The parts that are likely applicable:

Quote:
Tip: If the ESC sounds a continuous double beep
after the flight battery is connected, recharge or
replace the battery.


If you accidentally connect the battery while the
throttle is fully opened, a musical tone will sound
after 5 seconds and the ESC will enter programming
mode. Disconnect the battery immediately.


Entering the Programming Mode
1. With the battery disconnected from the controller, and the transmitter
turned on, first move the throttle stick to full throttle (>1.7ms)
position. Leave it in this position and then connect the battery to the
controller.

2. Wait for 5 seconds, and the ESC will give two sets of fast ringing tones
to indicate you have successfully entered the programming mode.

3. Once you hear these tones, move the stick to center (between 1.4 and
1.6ms), and the controller will beep 1 time, this indicates menu item 1

4. The controller will now wait 5 seconds for you to make your selection;
your programming options are either full throttle (>1.7ms), or idle
(<1.3ms).

5. When you have made a valid selection the control will beep once with
a lower tone, and you can move the stick back to center for the next
menu item (2 beeps, 3 beeps and so on). If you do not make a
selection within 5 seconds, the controller will move to the next
menu item.

6. Please note that if you do not need to program every menu item, you
can simply exit the programming mode after you have made the
required selections. You can do this by moving the throttle stick
straight to Idle, after making your selection, or leaving it in the Idle
position if you made a no selection (for approximately 8 seconds), until
you hear one set of 3 medium length rising tones that indicate the
controller has armed the motor, or by simply unplugging the battery.

Remember, when in the programming mode:
Full Throttle = Stick Up
Idle = Stick Down

The default settings (from the package) for your
E-flite 10-Amp Pro ESC are as follows:

• 3S (9V) auto cut-off for Li-Po

• Brake Off

• 4-pole and greater timing (outrunner or 6-pole motors)

• Throttle input range set to Auto Select Mode

(1.2ms-1.8ms)

Programming Menu 1 – Voltage Cut-off
Use this option to set the voltage at which the controller will shut down
the motor to prevent damage to your battery, when it reaches the cut-off
voltage. You will know that your battery pack has reached auto cut-off
when you hear the motor “pulse” repeatedly.
1. 3S Li-Po voltage cut-off – Full Throttle
2. 2S Li-Po or Ni-Cd/Ni-MH voltage cut-off – Idle
3. 70% Smart Cut soft cut-off (See below for Smart Cut information)

NOTE: To access the 70% Smart Cut option, leave the stick at full throttle for 7 seconds while in menu item 1, until 7 beeps are heard, then continue through the program normally. This option will activate the soft cut-off at 70% of startup voltage. For example, if your pack measures 10.0 volts at startup, then the soft cut will occur at 7.0 volts. The Smart Cut option will check the startup voltage every time you plug the
battery into the controller, so beware of using partially charged packs, as the system cannot protect your Li-Po batteries if you are using Smart Cut and connect a partially charged pack. You will know your battery pack has reached soft auto cut-off when you
hear the motor “pulse” repeatedly. We recommend you land your model as
soon as you hear the motor pulse (indicating the pack voltage has dropped
to the cut-off voltage level) to prevent over-discharge of the Li-Po battery
pack, and to prevent sudden power loss.

Programming Menu 2 – Braking
This option gives you the choice to have the ESC stop the propeller during
flight (Brake on) or allow it to windmill (Brake off). Use the brake-on option
for gliders.

1. Brake Off – Full Throttle (>1.7ms)
2. Brake On – Idle (<1.3ms)

Programming Menu 3 – Timing
Please refer to your motor instructions and specifications for an indication
of the number of poles.

1) 4 pole and greater motors timing mode – Full Throttle
2) 2 pole motors timing mode – Idle


Programming Menu 4 – Throttle Input Range
This option is to allow for proper operation of the ESC with many different
radios on the market. Most radios, and all the computer radios we have
tested, work well with the auto-set option, but some radios have a wider
output range, and may give a more linear response with the 1.1 to 1.9ms
range. If you feel there is too much “dead” area in the stick movement
near Full Throttle, try adjusting the end points in your radio, or change to
the wider input range. Be aware that if these settings are not correct, it
may be impossible to arm the controller. If this happens, return the input
range setting to the default auto learning setting.

The auto setting option learns the minimum position of your throttle
(between 1.1 and 1.3ms) and stores this value at each startup, and then
adds a value of 0.6ms for the full throttle setting.

1. Throttle Range 1.1ms to 1.9ms – Full Throttle
2. Auto Select – Idle

Error Codes
The controller will beep continuously if the input voltage is below the cut
voltage (beep...beep...beep) when the battery is connected. Check the
voltage of the battery pack to see if it is correct, or the programmed cut-off
setting if the input voltage is set incorrectly for the voltage of the pack
being used.

If you have trouble arming the controller (and the throttle trim has been
set to minimum), enter the programming mode and try the auto setting in
Programming Menu 4 to see if it helps correct your problem. If it is a
computer radio, you may alternatively increase your high and low throttle
ATV (endpoint) percentages.

Some systems including many Futaba systems may require the throttle
channel to be “reversed” for proper operation.

tracknoob is online now Find More Posts by tracknoob
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 08:19 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Okay, just looked at video.

IMHO, that is NOT a loose wire! If a wire was loose, then I don't think it would ever rev up. I assume (!) that even though not shown, that it can sustain full throttle and pull hard, eg all three phases therefore carrying proper current.

I suspect his motor is a little 'stiff' or that the timing is a bit off...

the idea of a low C rating battery seems unlikely, but not impossible I suppose --- BUT I would want to use a proper rated battery at least for comparison purposes to eliminate suspicion.
tracknoob is online now Find More Posts by tracknoob
Last edited by tracknoob; Jan 31, 2013 at 08:25 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2013, 08:28 PM
Registered User
Fairfield County, Connecticut
Joined Dec 2009
819 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Okay, just looked at video.

IMHO, that is NOT a loose wire! If a wire was loose, then I don't think it would ever rev up. I assume (!) that even though not shown, that it can sustain full throttle and pull hard, eg all three phases therefore carrying proper current.

I suspect his motor is a little 'stiff' or that the timing is a bit off...

the idea of a low C rating battery seems unlikely, but not impossible I suppose --- BUT I would want to use a proper rated battery at least for comparison purposes to eliminate suspicion.
Alright, I tried both timing modes out and the problem still persists. As for the battery, if the Gforce's 30C claim is true it is properly rated but the HH tech said it was likely overrated.
Benf207 is offline Find More Posts by Benf207
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Product E-flite 300 A6M5 Zero BNF Basic Afraidtoregister Electric Warbirds 1061 Sep 09, 2014 10:50 PM
Sold BNIB E-flite UMX Beast 3D BNF Basic AS3X (EFLU4850) plus EXTRAS peterswolf Aircraft - Electric - Micro & Indoor Airplanes (FS/W) 4 Sep 14, 2012 07:43 PM
For Sale E-Flite MSR X BNF Basic edition daign Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Jun 01, 2012 08:59 PM
Sold Edge 540 3D ARF by E-Flite freirem Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 2 Feb 28, 2012 06:38 PM
Discussion A6M5 Zero 300 BNF Basic by E-flite BlazingStar Micro Ready-to-Fly 2 Feb 03, 2012 02:22 AM