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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kuczy View Post
It's a good thing it flies great because those "minor kinks" are keeping many people from flying for over a week, myself included.

As I said Q designed an awesome little plane, sadly poor motor quality, stripped servos, rx problems, and the absolutely terrible fit and finish are starting to over shadow the planes flying abilities......at least for me.
I see your point, on all but the finish part. its not terrible...(yes it could be a bit better) but certainly not going to be much better being a foam model.

I have not had mine long enough to determine any of the other issues being reported. I do wonder though with the servos.. are some over driving them? It does say in the manual to not go beyond 100%, regardless of throw.

One nice touch could have been, a spare prop included. As they are backordered and I see others are "finding" alternatives.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kuczy View Post
It's a good thing it flies great because those "minor kinks" are keeping many people from flying for over a week, myself included.

As I said Q designed an awesome little plane, sadly poor motor quality, stripped servos, rx problems, and the absolutely terrible fit and finish are starting to over shadow the planes flying abilities......at least for me.
I would think Q would be upset with the implementation of his design
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by PropsnWings View Post
I see your point, on all but the finish part. its not terrible...(yes it could be a bit better) but certainly not going to be much better being a foam model.

I have not had mine long enough to determine any of the other issues being reported. I do wonder though with the servos.. are some over driving them? It does say in the manual to not go beyond 100%, regardless of throw.

One nice touch could have been, a spare prop included. As they are backordered and I see others are "finding" alternatives.
Wait till you try the GWS 7x3.5 prop,,, you'll wonder why they chose THIS prop
Mine personally DIDNOT have ANY of the issues others have had,,, but,,, I've seen a very high percentage of bad QC issues with this plane at my LHS,,, and I'm normally very impressed with HH stuff
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:03 PM
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If I'm going to spend $170 on a 26" plane I would kinda like it if I could put the little dents in it myself instead of the factory workers doing it for me. Honestly if Quique would have opened mine and seen all the little dents and dimples he might have taken it across the park to the #4 par4 dogleg left and tee'd it up.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Guys,

The 2300Kv/5043 combo provides considerably more thrust, speed, and longer flight-times than the 2500 - regardless of prop choice. The 2300 Kv motor is simply more efficient than the 2500 in the UMX airframes with the available UMX-sized props. So you get a lot more than just a quieter Sbach out of the deal.
how does the 3000kv stryker motor fit into the equation?
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Ok ESC relocation process.

1. take off prop, spinner, cowl, and plastic RX vent.
2. unhook the ESC from the motor and RX.
3. remove the ESC
4. cut a small hole in the battery tray where the ESC used to sit. Make sure it is large enough for the RX and battery wires to go though.
5. feed the ESC-> RX wire through the front under the motor into the large open area where the ESC is going to go.
6. Use some long tweezers/needle nose pliers though the round cooling hole in the bottom to feed the wire into the battery area.
7. repeat for the ESC->battery power lead.
8. Plug the motor wires back in to the ESC
9. put some double sided tape on the ESC
10. slide the ESC into the area below the motor.
* it helps to gently pull on the battery and RX wires to keep them tight to the ESC as you are sliding it in.
11. use a finger or something to firmly press the ESC to the bottom of the tray.
12. try to push the motor wires all the way in from the front and then from the bottom round hole position them to the sides as much as possible to keep the best airflow.
13 plug everything back in and reassemble.

I also cut a cooling hole in the front to keep plenty of cool air in the ESC area. Time will tell if it was necessary.

-Brian
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Airman74 View Post
Wait till you try the GWS 7x3.5 prop,,, you'll wonder why they chose THIS prop
Mine personally DIDNOT have ANY of the issues others have had,,, but,,, I've seen a very high percentage of bad QC issues with this plane at my LHS,,, and I'm normally very impressed with HH stuff
So you say I need to try the GWS 7x3.5 prop ? I see a few places sell 6 packs of these fairly cheap, maybe I will pick up a pack.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rcfisherman View Post
how does the 3000kv stryker motor fit into the equation?
3000kv motor with a 5030 prop gets you more thrust than any of the other combos. slightly less top speed in level flight than the 2300/5043 though.
The 3000kv and 5030 is my preferred setup, however it is about 2x louder than even the already loud 2500! I did a long in depth comparison of these two setups in the Beast or Beast3d thread.

-Brian
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Ok ESC relocation process.

1. take off prop, spinner, cowl, and plastic RX vent.
2. unhook the ESC from the motor and RX.
3. remove the ESC
4. cut a small hole in the battery tray where the ESC used to sit. Make sure it is large enough for the RX and battery wires to go though.
5. feed the ESC-> RX wire through the front under the motor into the large open area where the ESC is going to go.
6. Use some long tweezers/needle nose pliers though the round cooling hole in the bottom to feed the wire into the battery area.
7. repeat for the ESC->battery power lead.
8. Plug the motor wires back in to the ESC
9. put some double sided tape on the ESC
10. slide the ESC into the area below the motor.
* it helps to gently pull on the battery and RX wires to keep them tight to the ESC as you are sliding it in.
11. use a finger or something to firmly press the ESC to the bottom of the tray.
12. try to push the motor wires all the way in from the front and then from the bottom round hole position them to the sides as much as possible to keep the best airflow.
13 plug everything back in and reassemble.

I also cut a cooling hole in the front to keep plenty of cool air in the ESC area. Time will tell if it was necessary.

-Brian
I did that the first day before the maiden. Not sure how much more air gets into that compartment. If nothing else it's away from any extra battery heat.

Also you should have enough wire to tidy up the battery area by taping the wires off to the side.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:13 PM
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[QUOTE=PropsnWings;23434666]well I was not complaining. and I was never familiar with the AR6300. I just recently changed over to 2.4 this past season, started with a JR 11X and then upgraded (thats right I said upgraded) to a Spektrum DX18.

So why do you say UPGRADED to a DX -18???? I've been thinkin of one of those. ;-)
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kuczy View Post
I did that the first day before the maiden. Not sure how much more air gets into that compartment. If nothing else it's away from any extra battery heat.

Also you should have enough wire to tidy up the battery area by taping the wires off to the side.
Sounds like a GOOD mod
Although,,,,,,, I really havnt had much problems with mine stock. :-)
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:18 PM
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RC,

Regarding the market for TP 325s w/XH plugs - those who want the lowest wing-loading and the highest thrust-to-weight, but don't have a charger that supports both taps, and don't want to deal with adapters should be interested. However, my charger has XH & TP connectors, so it doesn't matter to me which taps my packs have.

A Hyp 500 35c pack seems like the perfect fit for this plane. If you can get bare Hyp 500 35c cells, I think you'll have a tough time making 3s packs fast enough to keep up. At least until TP comes out with a similar capacity 65c pack. BTW - I noticed that the factory Hyp 450 & 550 25c 3s packs are already sold out on All e RC.

The flurry of problem reports is starting to make me nervous. I hope it's just the typical statistical thing we usually see right after the feeding-frenzy that follows new releases.....

Just heard an updated forecast. Now they're saying that we'll be getting a few inches of snow this weekend, and it looks like the temps won't get above freezing for at least a week or so after that. As RG mentioned - for those of us who live up north, this is a really bad time to release a new plane - unless it comes with skis.

Joel
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:27 PM
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[QUOTE=Airman74;23434806]
Quote:
Originally Posted by PropsnWings View Post
well I was not complaining. and I was never familiar with the AR6300. I just recently changed over to 2.4 this past season, started with a JR 11X and then upgraded (thats right I said upgraded) to a Spektrum DX18.

So why do you say UPGRADED to a DX -18???? I've been thinkin of one of those. ;-)
The DX18 for me felt better in my hands, is much easier to program, has way more options in the programming, and I like the dual antennae diversity the DX18 has. It just all around made me feel much more comfortable flying. I now dont even think of the radio when flying, I just fly. Whereas the 11X I was always worried I'd drop it (very shiny and smooth, and HEAVY) I have been very happy with my decision to move to the DX18 from the 11X.

To me the choice was clear as I wanted to stay with DSMX technology for the Rx's I already invested in, and for the BNF options with my favorite place... Horizon Hobby. Quique had been flying the DX18 for over a year, that had to say something, didnt it ?
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Airman74 View Post
Sounds like a GOOD mod
Although,,,,,,, I really havnt had much problems with mine stock. :-)
That's good to hear. Mine was fine and on the 6th flight, 3 flight of that day, after I took off the motor shuttered and it was done. HH has been great with the CS, but so far my paint is bad, got new wings that came a crushed, landing gear block fell out on the 3rd flight and the wheel pant poked into the fuse, they sent a new one, dents all over the front of the plane new out of the box, horizontal stab not glued in new out of the box, very warm almost hot esc just setting the controls up, then the motor failure which got the esc to 156F and the motor to 168F after a 30sec flight.

They've been really nice and sent the new parts out, but mine has had more than just some minor kinks unfortunately. Hopefully my new motor will be hear on Thursday.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kuczy View Post
That's good to hear. Mine was fine and on the 6th flight, 3 flight of that day, after I took off the motor shuttered and it was done. HH has been great with the CS, but so far my paint is bad, got new wings that came a crushed, landing gear block fell out on the 3rd flight and the wheel pant poked into the fuse, they sent a new one, dents all over the front of the plane new out of the box, horizontal stab not glued in new out of the box, very warm almost hot esc just setting the controls up, then the motor failure which got the esc to 156F and the motor to 168F after a 30sec flight.

They've been really nice and sent the new parts out, but mine has had more than just some minor kinks unfortunately. Hopefully my new motor will be hear on Thursday.
That's disturbing to hear!! My flying buddy has had his rudder servo go bad after just 2nd flight
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