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Old Dec 17, 2012, 06:13 PM
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modisc's Avatar
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Yes Jack, the third dwg is what I modeled the first motor after, The test wind is what I was trying to accomplish and make it simpler, Modisc and Fourdan shot me down.
So when leg arm1 and arm2 fire together are they not north and south or do they fire north north? Then poses the question, why doesn't my test wind fire as it is supposed to?
What happens if I put a zig in the between slot bottom and wind each arm CW from the bottom up to the top? as in the pic
This picture shows the correct winding. When you look at each wire, follow the wire from one end of the wire, to the other end of the wire, you should be able to see that the flow around the 2 teeth taken by this wire, has the opposite direction.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 06:16 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Thank you Modisc. I'm grasping all I can and gleaning as much information I can as I read allowing me to understand more and more. I went through almost all the pages of your link on google chrome with the automatic translation! Very informative.
Tom
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Thank you Modisc. I'm grasping all I can and gleaning as much information I can as I read allowing me to understand more and more. I went through almost all the pages of your link on google chrome with the automatic translation! Very informative.
Tom
Thank you but frankly that page is not well organized. So if you need any info, tell us and we'll find it for you. Looking forward to your good news.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 08:52 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Here's tonites episode of wind it yer self! The back wire is ready for lap 6 on arm #1, it looks like #2 arm has 5.5 laps now
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Last edited by ApexAero; Dec 17, 2012 at 08:59 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Here's tonites episode of wind it yer self! The back wire is ready for lap 6 on arm #1, it looks like #2 arm has 5.5 laps now
looks right men. you do not need to put the 2 ends of the wire on the same side for now. you can finish all the 12 teeth first, leaving 6 ends on one side, and 6 ends on the other side. then you can make the 6 turns which are nearer to the surface of the stator, to do the final turn.
and you are right, when you finished, this will be a 5.5+5.5 T = 11T, or 5+6T, depending on how you look at it.

By the way, although the formula is AabBCc....., which means the coils "should" be like; CW-CCW-CCW-CW-CW-CCW...... However, you do not need to wind like this, you can just do a CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW....it mean, you can wind the 6 wires following the same pattern, which is easier and there will be little chance for making mistakes. After that, you can connect the ends correctly to a YY termination.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 01:17 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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So far so good! No shorts!
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Last edited by ApexAero; Dec 19, 2012 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 09:16 PM
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So far so good! No shorts!
looks great this time. It seems you get a 5+6T following 6 X (CW-CCW) pattern. In this way, though it would be very tight, you should be able to finish all teeth smoothly, since you are following the same pattern. The coil on the last teeth might be the most difficult. For such a winding, considering you have a turn that is approaching the edge, you surely need to use some type of glue system to fix the wires in place.

After you finish all the teeth, you may connect the 12 ends as YY or whatever, following the right scheme. Tell me if you need any help in doing so.

Here is a classic example of using STSD, with 12N8P ABC X 4.

By the way, this stator will be used together with the rotor from Samsung CSM-A5BB1ANT3 servo motor (a rated 50W servo motor), the size is comparable with a 1507 or 1508 Neu.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 01:19 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Will this termination work for the wind I'm doing now?
I need advise as I'm pretty sure but not exactly.
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Last edited by ApexAero; Dec 21, 2012 at 05:56 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 03:27 AM
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Will this termination work for the wind I'm doing now?
I need advise as I'm pretty sure but not exactly.
Hi, I think your drawing in 143# is correct for dLRK YY.

But you need to know, that the 12 coils in the drawing is like: CW-CCW-CCW-CW-CW-CCW-CCW-CW-CW-CCW-CCW-CW. while what you have now is CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW.


So for example, for tooth 1 and tooth 2, the 2 ends can be as the drawing. For tooth 3 and tooth 4 , the 2 ends should be exchanged.

I suggest , you can label the 12 ends in the drawing, first. And then, write the label on stickers, and put the stickers on each of the 12 ends of your stator correctly. Last, you can connect the labelled 12 ends as the drawing.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 01:54 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Originally Posted by modisc View Post
Hi, I think your drawing in 143# is correct for dLRK YY.

But you need to know, that the 12 coils in the drawing is like: CW-CCW-CCW-CW-CW-CCW-CCW-CW-CW-CCW-CCW-CW. while what you have now is CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW-CW-CCW.


So for example, for tooth 1 and tooth 2, the 2 ends can be as the drawing. For tooth 3 and tooth 4 , the 2 ends should be exchanged.

I suggest , you can label the 12 ends in the drawing, first. And then, write the label on stickers, and put the stickers on each of the 12 ends of your stator correctly. Last, you can connect the labelled 12 ends as the drawing.
bad dwg
I think this is better
EDIT: I have it connected and soldered this way, hope its right as I can't afford another ESC. I read where a yy has rotational drag like a shorted motor or like two leads touching when turning by hand, this one has it, as you rotate there is a pattern/seqence in the drag.
Grade my work for me guys! Spank me if you have to.

Jack the jaws are ready I need to pick them up and dress them the rest of the way.
Tom
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post

I think this is better
EDIT: I have it connected and soldered this way, hope its right as I can't afford another ESC. I read where a yy has rotational drag like a shorted motor or like two leads touching when turning by hand, this one has it, as you rotate there is a pattern/seqence in the drag.
Grade my work for me guys! Spank me if you have to.

Jack the jaws are ready I need to pick them up and dress them the rest of the way.
Tom
I do not think your drawing in 145# is correct. In the drawing in 145#, it is a CW-CCW X 6 pattern, and it should not be connected like that. By connecting like that you are doing like: AaBbCcAaBbCc, which is not a dLRK and will not work for 12N10P.

By the way, in my opinion, any type of Y should not result in a "drag" feeling when turning by hand, for any correct connections for any N/P combination. However, D will result in a drag feeling, for those non-ABC windings. If any drag is felt, when it should not be present, it means your connection is wrong. and there is no need to connect to ESC to do no-load test anymore. But you can still try using small throttle to see if the motor can run or not. never turn up the throttle to too high, cause i truly think the connect is not correct.

Tell me you can see the difference between the 2 winding/connection scheme you posted in 143# and 145#?
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 09:31 PM
Jack
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..<snip>..
Grade my work for me guys! Spank me if you have to.

Jack the jaws are ready I need to pick them up and dress them the rest of the way.
Tom
I'll give it an A+, you'll spank yourself when and if it becomes necessary.

Thanks for the update on the tool, looking forward to seeing that. No immediate need or rush, just anticipation...

Jack
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 12:06 AM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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I'm a carpenter not an electrical engineer, presently I'm blind by staring at it trying to figure it out. I have to start all over. I don't mind but I need a schematic. I can follow a print, I just can't design them. here a blank of what I'll be winding again. Any one feel free to connect the dots for yy dLRK or correct any of the other drawings and let me know where I went wrong. I'm done staring at it.
You see I'm good at carpentry,reallygood, I really suck at trying to figure out an electrical puzzel, I know there's a solution and its got to be simple but I'm not phukin seein it. Do I need to offer a two pound of copper reward?
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
I'm a carpenter not an electrical engineer, presently I'm blind by staring at it trying to figure it out. I have to start all over. I don't mind but I need a schematic. I can follow a print, I just can't design them. here a blank of what I'll be winding again. Any one feel free to connect the dots for yy dLRK or correct any of the other drawings and let me know where I went wrong. I'm done staring at it.
You see I'm good at carpentry,reallygood, I really suck at trying to figure out an electrical puzzel, I know there's a solution and its got to be simple but I'm not phukin seein it. Do I need to offer a two pound of copper reward?
I feel responsible for your failure, but I have tried my best to respond promptly, and explain myself clear. Though my last pm to you contain the solution that I think is correct, I'll try my best to explain again with graphs from the very start down to the very details. Don't be frustrated but Please read thouroughly and do everything step by step till you understand every step. I always stress the point that make sure first, before you "seal" everything, this wil give you a chance to fix any problems, rather than starting over again. I learnt this from lots of my failures before. By the way, I am an urologist and only start playing with motors one year ago. You should have faith in yourself and there is truly, no puzzle here.

I'll post as soon as I get home.
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 02:18 AM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Thanks for the encouragement Modsic I found a trace that was wrong on both side groups center to the bundles/links. I went through it or and followed a standard off another drawing that helped me see what I missed, I think.
This is another dwg, if I keep two separate bundles it should be yy, if I group all six it should be half parallel, I think. When you have time would you check it.
I've stripped the wire again and need to re glue some plates together to start again, I have about a pound of copper left.
Tom
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Last edited by ApexAero; Dec 24, 2012 at 04:06 AM.
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