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Old Oct 22, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Never done this before

So as the title says i have never made a rc boat before but i had one awhile ago and i loved it.
I do alot of race trucks and crawlers so this is a big change but i live in lake havasu so i need a boat to play with lol.
So i started with a hull i found on craigslist for 20$
i ordered a few parts off ebay and i had a hobby wing 1/8 scale brushless motor and esc that runs off 2 lipos witch i have to chose still.
i am gonna be running a DX2E 2.4 radio with it i still have to clean the electronics up but ill get a pic of them up soon tell me what you think
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:57 PM
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so i think i might have messed up with buying that rudder
I think i might need a 110mm or so but i made a small paper templet and held it to the boat in the spot i want it looks like it will hit the water at all times even in a hard right but that we will have to see lol

BTW the hull is a fiberglass 31in dont know much about it guy had it sitting and never used it
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LCKRC View Post
so i think i might have messed up with buying that rudder
I think i might need a 110mm or so but i made a small paper templet and held it to the boat in the spot i want it looks like it will hit the water at all times even in a hard right but that we will have to see lol
If you set it up as a conventional v the rudder should be deeper into the water on a right hand turn than on a left. It should be mounteed about 1.5 - 2" to the right of the transom center line. Ideally you should have the water pickup in the rudder about 1/2" below the bottom of the v.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:27 PM
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i could be looking at it wrong but so far it seems like it will work out how you said i feel stupid but i had to even look up what transom is lol this is a big learning experience
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:56 PM
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so this is my idea of how to mount my lid tell me what you think of if im going about this all wrong.

I want to have it with 2 body post mounted in the front and back of the lid that just use your basic body pin.
to hold the lid in place and make it some what more water tight.I want to take a wooden dowel or something kinda like a round plastic tube like pic but bigger and put that down around the base so the lid fits snug then i will fiberglass it in place and put a foam or rubber like coating on it for a better fit.
seems like a good way to do it what do you guys think?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 03:00 AM
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i have a question about picking my drive shaft i see things like flex shafts and other things.Do you pick the drive shaft for the boat,the mounting area you want or both.like do i just go flex shaft and also the drive shaft i already have coming with that outrigger does it just screw onto it or is that what goes right to the motor? i have been trying to look but havent had much luck
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 04:50 AM
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What's done is done I guess but... a "stinger" usually works out better on a V hull than a strut does. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str

For the size of your boat a .150 or .187 flex with 3/16" stub (prop) shaft is common. The 3/16" size bore is the most common for props. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...at=Flex+Cables Chances are the strut you posted the photo of only has a 4 mm bore which will limit your prop selection.

Connection to the motor is done with a coupler. These are available in many sizes. One end needs to fit the motor shaft the other the cable of your chosen flex. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Motor+Couplers

Coming back to your hatch, (lid) most electric guys use hatch (hockey) tape to secure them. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=hatch-tape Drilling holes in the hatch and using pins to secure it just gives the water another opening to get inside and kill your electronics.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 01:18 PM
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the main problem im having is the lip so when the hatch sets on the boat it just slides around cause theres not lip for it to set on
i guess i should have looked up a few things before i bought that stuff but it was cheap and i do alot of projects and im sure i can find a way to use it.
i just got a 380 brushless motor setud and i want to find a small boat next maybe a cat hull
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 01:33 PM
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what is a stinger? i dont know the difference from what i got to a stinger for this boat im thinking about getting this if my setup i got doesnt work what do you think
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 05:11 PM
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what is a stinger? i dont know the difference from what i got to a stinger for this boat im thinking about getting this if my setup i got doesnt work what do you think
If you go back up to post 7 and click the link at the end of the 1st line it will take you to a stinger on OSE.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 09:14 PM
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i saw it says you can make more changes with the stinger im guessing that is a racing setup? that looks cool but is that the main difference is getting better performance because you are able to change prop angles?
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 04:28 AM
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There are advantages to both struts and stingers. The stinger makes for easy drive angle adjustments on a V hull. The strut makes for easy drive height adustments on cats and hydro type hulls.

To run a strut on a V hull and take advantage of the adjustments you have to have an oversize stuffing tube exit hole and build a wet box inside the hull around the stuffing tube to keep it from flooding the boat.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 06:20 PM
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do you happen to have a pic of what this looks like
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 07:44 PM
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You can find pictures of everything I've mentioned by clicking the links I gave you in the quoted post below. But, if you want some pictures...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill34207 View Post
What's done is done I guess but... a "stinger" usually works out better on a V hull than a strut does. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str

For the size of your boat a .150 or .187 flex with 3/16" stub (prop) shaft is common. The 3/16" size bore is the most common for props. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...at=Flex+Cables Chances are the strut you posted the photo of only has a 4 mm bore which will limit your prop selection.

Connection to the motor is done with a coupler. These are available in many sizes. One end needs to fit the motor shaft the other the cable of your chosen flex. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...Motor+Couplers

Coming back to your hatch, (lid) most electric guys use hatch (hockey) tape to secure them. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=hatch-tape Drilling holes in the hatch and using pins to secure it just gives the water another opening to get inside and kill your electronics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LCKRC View Post
do you happen to have a pic of what this looks like
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Last edited by bill34207; Oct 25, 2012 at 07:52 PM. Reason: added a few pix
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:01 PM
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im sorry i did a bad post i saw the links i ment of a wet box i am getting more and more info the more i look on here and thank you for helping with stupid questions
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