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Old Oct 26, 2012, 02:57 PM
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rolex Will take a photo of setup sometime this week as going to add a Dimension Engineering ESC. But it is a bulkhead added with a 6 degree shim bolted to the uprights strengthing leg. The greasing the shafts was cured with a #40 hole drilled in the shaft log and sealed after use with a piece of tape. Would not think WD40 is good for your shaft as it has plastic bushings. LaBelle(Railroad Folks) makes a plastic compatible grease. Get a pair of K1720 props on order from Prop shop if you really want to wake this boat up. 3mm bore with setscrew is the proper shaft dimension.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 09:51 AM
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IRELAND
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptCB View Post
You want the pushrod in a hole closer in, to the shaft center line, at the rudders. Also, CHECK your rudder arm clearence, VERY closely, as when you increase rudder throw, the steering arms come very close, or can hit, the inside of the hull. But you are headed in the right direction. CaptCB
Thanks - I did check the arms before putting the tug back together and all is working well.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptLee View Post
rolex Will take a photo of setup sometime this week as going to add a Dimension Engineering ESC. But it is a bulkhead added with a 6 degree shim bolted to the uprights strengthing leg. The greasing the shafts was cured with a #40 hole drilled in the shaft log and sealed after use with a piece of tape. Would not think WD40 is good for your shaft as it has plastic bushings. LaBelle(Railroad Folks) makes a plastic compatible grease. Get a pair of K1720 props on order from Prop shop if you really want to wake this boat up. 3mm bore with setscrew is the proper shaft dimension.
Sounds excellent looking forward to any info and photo's to help me and others out there, and this is what this tread is about.

WD-40 may not be the best thing to use on shafts but its better dan nothing. - Many Thanks.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:58 AM
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The Art of Ageing a model boat.

Here is what i am working on today, adding age to my Tug boat. And i have so much to add over the next few weeks like Nav Lights, and may other parts before i will be happy with the way she looks ! It may not be everyone's Cup of Tea, but a stock model just is not for me.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 09:15 AM
"day ain't over yet-"
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Western N.Y. winemaking country
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I didn't know that there were "official" mods to an RTR---.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 08:19 AM
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I didn't know that there were "official" mods to an RTR---.
Your right, don't know what i was thinking of, so i re-named the thread again take a look !!!!!
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 08:49 AM
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Well i was out on the sea today testing the mods on the rudders that i did on page 2 of this thread and the turning of the boat was just excellent. The only down part was i was getting a lot of water on the back of the main deck, but it was fun to watch.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 12:32 PM
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Beautiful work!!! how did you do all the weathering?
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 02:00 PM
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Beautiful work!!! how did you do all the weathering?
It has not been easy, i did not use paint, i used power liner permanent markers which is very hard to work with and to mix the colours with each other.

I am still working on the look of my Tug, and it will change more over the next ten weeks or so.

I'm not sure which way to go with her, The "BP" look "SHELL" look or just a work horse from Dublin port.

regards - Rolex.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Wow, thanks for the 'how to', so for the green deck you smudge the colors for the 'water color' effect... cool.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 06:54 PM
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Shame you don't have other modelers to run with. The boat would take on a "natural" patina of age, with paint swaps, T bones, scummy water, dirt from sitting on the ground, sun baking, hull scrapes from beaching, etc., etc,. Be surprised how fast it and you will age.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LA Summit View Post
Wow, thanks for the 'how to', so for the green deck you smudge the colors for the 'water color' effect... cool.
The deck was done by using a small bit of nail polish remover and by adding the the colour to the tissue, this makes the colour run on the tissue a little and with this i used the tissue to add the brown colour to the boats deck giving the deck that old used look.

The same was used for the smoke stacks, but NOT for the main cab of the ship. This was done by using 3 pens, Black pen, light brown pen and a dark brown pen.

First a little light brown pen want on, then the dark brown pen and then a little black.

Then you get the dark brown pen and mix all the colours on the cab together.

Done !

Warning: Permanent Markers are unforgiving ! Once on the boat the only way to get then off is with a lot of nail polish remover.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Prins Willem View Post
Shame you don't have other modelers to run with. The boat would take on a "natural" patina of age, with paint swaps, T bones, scummy water, dirt from sitting on the ground, sun baking, hull scrapes from beaching, etc., etc,. Be surprised how fast it and you will age.
I know what your saying - However, when a was a boy all my model war ships where aged this way only i used paint not pen.

I am a One Model at a Time Man, i was the same with all my models over the years.

She has a number of marks from use already, as for the way she is looking now, Well i still have a lot of work to do before i can say she's "FINISH" and thats seen to be a long way off from where i sitting !

As for yourself, any input to help others is always welcome on this thread.

Many Thanks - Rolex
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Nice, I like the Aquacraft Atlantic's rusty port holes etc... very subtle and realistic.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:44 PM
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very nice job of aging this one. May I sudgest adding some weight band let this one sit a little deeper in the water as this will help slow the roll and keep a little more water off the decks from the rolling motion.
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