Hi Pipe!

Below, a couple of pictures explaining what I ment. It's just a prototype but it's working properly keeping the wings in place when removing them from the frame.
I keep the upper and lower spruce in place with rubber bands, just to keep position.

Because of the cross-bar everything keep the right angle. I just need to unscrew two bolts, then it's possible to put the jig between thew wires, same for removing it.

Have to find proper mtrl to make the two real ones.

rgds/krokko

Dear Krokko:

The PIPE Here again---it's just that I did NOT know if your Tiggie's wing panels had any "projecting" ends to place the type of rigging plates onto, that's all!

What you've got in the photos DOES look like a very workable solution to keeping everything in place when your Tiggie's not flying, or on its way to the field. My late friend Hank Iltzsch (he left us late in 2010), who designed and built a series of 1915-16 era British Bristol Scout D "museum scale" 1:4th scale early WW I-era "giant scale" models...





...had to use just about exactly the style of "rigging plate" that I told you about, to keep HIS Bristols' wings "steady" when detached from the fuselages.

I've got a set of CAD-plans going over the long term to do the slightly "earlier" 1915 Bristol Scout C in 25 cm = 1 meter quarter scale, based on Hank's American national aeromodeling club magazine building articles for his Scout D from both March and April 1981 issues of Model Aviation...I've also got Hank's plans from the AMA national aermodeling club's magazine article here in America for his Scout D, which was originally meant to be powered with a 12-15 cm3 two-stroke mill. Those sizes of "noisy" two-stroke mills were all that were available in the US at the start of the "Giant Scale" era in 1980 for pwoering them, until the Canadian Quadra two-stroke 35 cm3 "noisy mill" came along for powering Giant Scale aircraft at that time. Thankfully for US in the early 21st century, though, with sooo MANY better-sounding and running FOUR stroke glow ignition and petrol "gasser" model engines available from a growing number of vendors, at least OUR engine-powered model aircraft can sound and fly much better than any old 15 cm3 two-stroke "noisy mill" could ever hope to fly them.

It looks like your whipped-up "prototype" rigging plates only need some foam tape placed along their "contact edges" (where the plates fit against the wing covering) and sizable "hooks" added on the plates' corners to properly retain rubber bands, to keep everything together when the wings get detached from the fuselage...so I'd have to guess you're just about set to have your Tiggie's wing panels all set for "transportation time" next Spring when it's time to fly your Tiggie.

So, just like Hank did for his Bristols, you're ready go "go on further" in checking your Tiggie's wing incidence angles...best of luck as you go onwards with the project!

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!

krokko - what you've made is very similar to that supplied with the Hangar 9 Tiger. Frankly, it's probably the best solution, as it can remain in place until the wings are actually fitted to the fuselage. End plates or temporary 'N' struts like mine have to be removed before the wings are fitted and that causes stability problems. I need to make some like yours!

Originally Posted by GordonTarling

krokko - what you've made is very similar to that supplied with the Hangar 9 Tiger. Frankly, it's probably the best solution, as it can remain in place until the wings are actually fitted to the fuselage. End plates or temporary 'N' struts like mine have to be removed before the wings are fitted and that causes stability problems. I need to make some like yours!

Thanks Gordon,

Yes, I have the H9 Tiger and I had to modify what they sent with the ARF. It was a little bit easier then the Flair since the pins was in the wings, in this case something else needed to be designed. I spent a day trying to figure out the best way and what you see on the pictures is what I believe could work for the Flair.
The jig need to be approx 10-15cm in to the wing because of the shape of the wing root.

OK, now I have to make two of those, then remove all wires again and secure the links with some silicon tubing, and also put some dope on all oracover overlaps. Well, time is the thing I got plenty off, so, no big thing!

(still waiting for the cub yellow oracover paint from Germany).

have a nice weekend, we got 20cm of snow today, more to come tomorrow.

rgds/krokko

Originally Posted by GordonTarling

Hi krokko - my wing pairs have an 'N' shaped false strut fitted on the root end for transport which just slip over the locating dowels. BTW, it's NOT a Flair Moth. The only problem with this setup comes when it's time to remove that 'N' strut - without it, the wing pairs act like jelly! Suggest you make something similar to that provided with the big Hangar 9 Tiger Moth - there's a few threads around about it. Sorry, I don't know the wing incidences - can you not measure off the plan side view? Here's two pics of my tank - sorry, I was mistaken in thinking the top was all one piece - it's near scale, but I'm no perfectionist! I need to add a few more details over this winter, like filler and fuel gauge.

hi Gordon,

How did you do that?? I have a hard time trying to fit the plastic...which glue did you use?? Seem to be one of the hardest things to do. Have the front doors fitted with handles and things, but this is very difficult.....

rgds/krokko

krokko - what one person finds difficult, another finds easy. I cut a piece the width of the tank, taped it to the top, with an overhang and slowly worked away at it with a hairdryer and a soft cloth. The secret is getting it just hot enough to bend without melting it. Once I had the pieces bent, I trimmed them as required and stuck them to the tank with some strong double sided tape and cyano at the edges.

Gordon, so thru!
I went for a different solution!! Came to think of the plastic flooring for bathrooms, went out, bought a piece, cut it to stripes and Voila, only some hours work before it sits there. Have to admit that your solution looks very nice, we'll see later on what I can achieve with my floor mat!?

rgds/krokko

Whatever works for you! I'm sure it will look fine when finished and painted.

Stripes glued, brushed with white glue and water.....

rgds/krokko

KajS,
Looking good my friend. I enjoy seeing your progress!
Carl

Originally Posted by CarlMalone

KajS,
Looking good my friend. I enjoy seeing your progress!
Carl

Thanks Carl,

just realized that you live not far from where I used to travel a lot in the late 90's. Used to work with Ericsson and visited Dallas frequently at that time...... nice area!

rgds/KajS

Looks nice and big

got the oracolor paint - christmas holiday work!!

rgds/krokko

Not much happening, waiting for a friend and his painting tools!

Opened a new box today, wow, SIG Spacewalker 1/3. Right now starting browsing the manual.........(shouldn't have done this, but the winter is still going to stay for 2-3 months)......

/krokko

Happy, painting will be done on Saturday this week. Can finally mount everything and get Tiggie ready for flight!