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Old Dec 09, 2012, 07:50 PM
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United States, OH, Columbus
Joined Jan 2011
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sealing motor wires

Running motor wires into the frame:

I drilled 3/8 holes near the motor mounts to run the wires but haven't decided how to seal the entry point. Anybody have any input as I instinctively don't trust silicon on kydex and Van talked about using grommets? Are my instinct wrong?

Otherwise flying nicely with CC, Rockets 900kv, 10" APC, 2 x 1300 4C Zippy's. Makes a nice resonant drum noise and launches well from the pond!

FR
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 08:23 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,228 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingRodent View Post
Running motor wires into the frame:

I drilled 3/8 holes near the motor mounts to run the wires but haven't decided how to seal the entry point. Anybody have any input as I instinctively don't trust silicon on kydex and Van talked about using grommets? Are my instinct wrong?

Otherwise flying nicely with CC, Rockets 900kv, 10" APC, 2 x 1300 4C Zippy's. Makes a nice resonant drum noise and launches well from the pond!

FR
My plan...the grommets look nice and protect the motor leads from rubbing against the kydex hole. I was planning on just using some silicon grease (from the local hardware store plumbing section) to 'seal' the wires where they run into the grommets. Unlike hot glue, silicone, etc, the grease doesn't harden, just seal. That was my plan at least.

Yesterday I did a couple of flights after replacing my 1300kv Rocket motors for 1050kv ones. The 1300kv's were just pulling to many amps and the battery was coming out hot. Anyway, my first flights with the 1050kv's were with 3S LiPo and 8" props. I flew okay, but just wouldn't hold the yaw...it was yawing all over the place...sometimes drifting nearly 360 degrees around...uncommanded. I'll try 9" props and bump up the YAW 'P' for the next flight (it's at 10 now). If that doesn't help I might try a different controller. I'm kinda disappointed in the yaw issue right now.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 10:30 PM
fly by night
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Joined Sep 2011
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just got my frame. Nicely made. The motor 'X's I have are off by a couple mm, not a biggie. I bought some 1200kv motors w ESCs from a friend, new unused, for cheap. But the wiring to the motors is going to be pretty laborious. Have to spice in extensions to all 12 motor leads, run them through the frame. OK, fair enough, it's a pita compared to airplanes, but then no servos to mess with.

Very cold here these days, so I hope the small ESCs are up to the task without having airflow cooled heatsinks. I have a waterproof FPV pod I already have used on various planes which will nicely work with this copter, so I hope no need to fly it LOS at all.

I guess with 1200kv, I will need to run 2x 2200 3S nanotech, then

edit - extensions done. motors on. standoffs for kk2.0 done. Just need to solder up the battery leads, setup the FC and fly (followed by disassembly and siliconing)





update Dec 19 ...

finally have a complete wiring harness soldered up. And started the kk2.0 setup process.

Turns out the one ESC running the FC gets real hot. Crappy HK ESC BEC I guess. So I had to splice in a UBEC, given the heavy focus on minimizing heat this copter requires.

Wiring harness has a lost-plane beeper and a power lead to run the waterproof FPV pod outside the copter. Anyone recommend a grease to put over the jst plug that powers the FPV pod, but will also protect the conductors in the JST from water/shorting?



Quad firmware setup. Motors spin the correct direction. Just need to adjust the PIDs according to recommendations on the forums, and test fly her tomorrow.

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Old Dec 17, 2012, 11:35 PM
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Port Coquitlam, BC CANADA
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Originally Posted by BCSaltchucker View Post
Very cold here these days, so I hope the small ESCs are up to the task without having airflow cooled heatsinks.
Of course the rest of us in Canada know that "cold" in Victoria means having to throw on a Cardigan on top of the golf shirt.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 01:36 AM
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All my motors have been installed and the silicone has cured. I'm going to look for bubbles later, while it's not critical that it's waterproof, it would be a nice bonus. I'm still thinking about where to mount my flight controller. Since I'll be using Naza I think I can mount it on the very bottom of the inside of this frame, then I'll shield it with something so a battery won't rest on top of it.

Or maybe I'll mount it under the lid somehow, but I don't want to drill it. Hm..
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 04:24 AM
fly by night
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Originally Posted by Stumblebee View Post
Of course the rest of us in Canada know that "cold" in Victoria means having to throw on a Cardigan on top of the golf shirt.
I actually go flying in shorts on winter days here. 'winter' used loosely
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WiseDuck View Post
All my motors have been installed and the silicone has cured. I'm going to look for bubbles later, while it's not critical that it's waterproof, it would be a nice bonus. I'm still thinking about where to mount my flight controller. Since I'll be using Naza I think I can mount it on the very bottom of the inside of this frame, then I'll shield it with something so a battery won't rest on top of it.

Or maybe I'll mount it under the lid somehow, but I don't want to drill it. Hm..
Ok, as promised I have a solution to equalize the pressure so that the NAZA and other "barometric sensitive" units don't go crazy. Essentially they are stickers... but waterproof and breathable. These damn things are quite pricey for what they look like... I will be pricing them at about $8 I think, but they work wonders. All you need is one but it needs to be mounted from the inside so that it is not easily punctured or removable. I just added this one to the top cover so that I can keep the NAZA mounted and just change the unit out if I want to use my KK 2.0 or something else with another cover.

Will have a video up soon (don't know when) to demonstrate the effectiveness. For now a few pictures...
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 11:09 PM
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Nice one, looks like a great way to solve this, thanks.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AquaCopters View Post
Ok, as promised I have a solution to equalize the pressure so that the NAZA and other "barometric sensitive" units don't go crazy. Essentially they are stickers... but waterproof and breathable. These damn things are quite pricey for what they look like... I will be pricing them at about $8 I think, but they work wonders. All you need is one but it needs to be mounted from the inside so that it is not easily punctured or removable. I just added this one to the top cover so that I can keep the NAZA mounted and just change the unit out if I want to use my KK 2.0 or something else with another cover.

Will have a video up soon (don't know when) to demonstrate the effectiveness. For now a few pictures...
I have been following this discussion about porting for the baro sensor and have to ask... why?

Why do I ask? Well, on my waterproof frames a pretty much standard, but rather highly modified, food type waterproof container is used for all the electronics. I used to drill a small hole in the top with a watertrap behind it. Well, on the last one I built I simply forgot to drill the hole. In test flights it flew exactly the same and held near perfect altitude. So, apparently there is no need to vent the enclosure. The case seems to be flexible enough to allow for expansion and contraction with altitude changes.

With that said, the NAZA is waterproof! I can attest to this in at least 4 dunkings. All the electronics were completely soaked but the NAZA was completely dry inside.

On this frame I understand it is rather rigid. But if the cover is flexible plastic I don't really see any need to vent the case unless for cooling.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 11:30 AM
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I finally ordered one!
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AquaCopters View Post
Ok, as promised I have a solution to equalize the pressure so that the NAZA and other "barometric sensitive" units don't go crazy. Essentially they are stickers... but waterproof and breathable. These damn things are quite pricey for what they look like... I will be pricing them at about $8 I think, but they work wonders. All you need is one but it needs to be mounted from the inside so that it is not easily punctured or removable. I just added this one to the top cover so that I can keep the NAZA mounted and just change the unit out if I want to use my KK 2.0 or something else with another cover.

Will have a video up soon (don't know when) to demonstrate the effectiveness. For now a few pictures...
Looks like a good solution for this. I've noticed that the altitude hold isn't really working with the Naza in my Aquacopter. I tried ordering two from your website but I got a "No shipping quotes available for your address". I'm guessing this is just a bug with your store or do you not ship these outside of the US?

Anyone in Canada know of a place to pick these things up? Preferably a local place in Vancouver as I'd like to get this working asap.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:17 PM
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United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
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Anyone drilling any holes in this thing for FPV camera, UHF antennas and VTx antenna?

What's the best water sealant that will stick to the Kydex?

Pictures?
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 09:46 PM
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Port Coquitlam, BC CANADA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by buenoben View Post
Looks like a good solution for this. I've noticed that the altitude hold isn't really working with the Naza in my Aquacopter. I tried ordering two from your website but I got a "No shipping quotes available for your address". I'm guessing this is just a bug with your store or do you not ship these outside of the US?

Anyone in Canada know of a place to pick these things up? Preferably a local place in Vancouver as I'd like to get this working asap.
The more I read this, the more the solution sounds like your plain old ordinary waterproof adhesive bandage. It seems to do everything this fancy $8.00 wonder seal will do and it is easily replaceable. Just make sure the webbing part is over the hole so things can breathe. If it works on a seven-year old, it should work on an Aqua copter
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Last edited by Stumblebee; Dec 30, 2012 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Used the wrong aircraft name by mistake. My bad.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Oct 2012
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Originally Posted by Stumblebee View Post
The more I read this, the more the solution sounds like your plain old ordinary waterproof adhesive bandage. It seems to do everything this fancy $8.00 wonder seal will do and it is easily replaceable. Just make sure the webbing part is over the hole so things can breathe. If it works on a seven-year old, it should work on a Phantom
Cool, I might just try using this when I get my Aquacopter up and running again
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Canada, BC, Vancouver
Joined Oct 2012
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I've been having lots of fun flying my Aquacopter, I'm beginning to get a hang of it even though it's my first quadcopter. Currently it's not working though due to two minor issues I'm having.

- As I unscrewed a couple of the motors from the frame to straighten out the mounts a few of the threaded inserts for the screws fell out into the frame. Now when a few of the threads have fallen out I have no way of securing the motors properly. Do I need to take the frame apart to reinsert these thread mounts or is the better way? How do I secure the thread mounts into the frame?

If I need to take the frame apart, what should I use to do this and what should I use to "glue" it together again?

- The wires from one of the motors were disconnected from one of the ESCs during a crash landing. They came preinstalled when I ordered the setup from Aquacopter and the cables from the motors are really short. There is no way I could reach in far enough to reconnect them to the female ESC wires.

The two options I have considered are.
1. Buying extension wires and feeding them back through the frame from the "motor wire hole" to the center frame hole where i could easily hook it back up to the ESC.
2. Enlarging the "motor wire hole" and then carefully feeding wires from ESCs through it.
3. Taking the case apart to access the wires and then glue the two sides together again.

For those of you with more experience who bought the empty frame, how did you deal with connecting the motors to ESCs?

thanks!
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