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Old Nov 22, 2012, 12:30 AM
Pants first, then shoes
Auckland NZ
Joined Jan 2011
2,712 Posts
It only took me a few minutes to file the motor mounts I have to fit the aquaquad motor mounts, not a hard job and mine are working fine.
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 10:09 AM
Brushless
cdi3d's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
2,027 Posts
Aquacopter - I realize it is a function of the design - Not a big deal - Maybe throw four that fit into the kit and it would be perfect. Quality is great I just need to figure out how I am going to get everything into the shell - I have been thinking about mounting the battery on the exterior and waterproofing them and the plugs -
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 02:43 PM
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245 Posts
Maybe Aquaquad will come up with a QAV500 waterproof frame design soon for FPV?
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 05:12 PM
Multicopter Madness!
AeroVideoUS's Avatar
United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
2,534 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptoknight View Post
Maybe Aquaquad will come up with a QAV500 waterproof frame design soon for FPV?
I think all they need on this frame to make it great for FPV is a raised lid instead of a flat lid. The raised lid needs to have straight sides so the camera can be put in there
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 05:37 PM
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Tasmania, Australia
Joined Aug 2004
1,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptoknight View Post
Maybe Aquaquad will come up with a QAV500 waterproof frame design soon for FPV?
Now you're talking ....
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 10:46 PM
Registered User
United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Aug 2012
347 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptoknight View Post
Maybe Aquaquad will come up with a QAV500 waterproof frame design soon for FPV?
to make the aquaquad 250 more grams heavier? ( QAv weighs 550 grams they say)no thanks. aluminum doesn't float haha
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 03:23 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
17,065 Posts
I 'open field' maidened my Aquacopter today. They are noisier than a normal frame for sure. I installed Rocket 2215 1300kv motors on 3S and 8" props. Power WAS NOT an issue. Actually, though, it's to much power. My max amps hit 52A with ~19A average. I think I'm going to replace the motors with some 1050kv ones. My batteries were coming out pretty warm and puffy from the flights...and that's with the lid blocked open a little to let some air into the frame. It did handle loops and rolls with ease. I just need to drop the power so I can get some longer flights with less strain on the batteries.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 03:30 PM
Mmmmmmm!
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Kingdom of Sweden, Dalarna County, Sater
Joined Oct 2011
3,278 Posts
Mine should be in the air soon. I drilled all the cross mounts, drilled holes for wires and whatnot. Also removed the shaft on all my NTM motors. Question is.. How did you guys seal the screw holes for the crossmounts? With a dab of silicone in the hole?
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 04:15 PM
Quadcopter Addict
Joined Nov 2011
322 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiseDuck View Post
. Question is.. How did you guys seal the screw holes for the crossmounts? With a dab of silicone in the hole?
That's what I did. I filled them up and left a blob on top.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:13 AM
Fitzy
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Gold Coast
Joined Jul 2008
45 Posts
Mine is on the way at last

Anyone have any idea where I can get some small heatsinks.

I want to cut some rectangular slots in the arms to allow the ESC's to be mounted internally with the heatsinks attached to the ESC's.

This will allow the heat to disipate with the propwash.

I did this with a DexQuad very effectively but cant find any more heatsinks.

Cheers FItzyKiter
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 09:43 AM
Registered User
United States, NV, North Las Vegas
Joined Sep 2009
1,075 Posts
Quote:
Anyone have any idea where I can get some small heatsinks.

I want to cut some rectangular slots in the arms to allow the ESC's to be mounted internally with the heatsinks attached to the ESC's.

This will allow the heat to disipate with the propwash.

I did this with a DexQuad very effectively but cant find any more heatsinks.

Depends on ESC size, for my 25a turnigy plushes I used these 25x25mm heatsinks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-25x25x1...item2ec0b1803e
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Last edited by shultz; Nov 25, 2012 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 01:01 PM
Brushless
cdi3d's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
2,027 Posts
How did you attach the heatsink to the esc?

Mike

Also I see someof you are using LED's on the outside fo the fuse - What happens when those get wet?
Mike
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Last edited by cdi3d; Nov 25, 2012 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:58 AM
Fitzy
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Gold Coast
Joined Jul 2008
45 Posts
Thanks for the info on heatsinks through Ebay. I should be able to find something suitable there.

Heatsinks usually have a self adhesive sticky conductive material to attach them to the IC surface. The ones I used in my Dex did anyway.

LED's are available in waterproof versions. You just have to waterproof the solder connection with hot glue or silastic. Available from HobbyKing by the meter.

Cheers - the kiterider
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 07:45 AM
Brushless
cdi3d's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
2,027 Posts
Thanks kite flyer - I was more interested in what Shultz did with his because the ones he is using from ebay do not mention or show any self adhesive thermal compound. Most thermal compounds are a grease and would not stick to the esc. I think the lights he is using do not appear to be waterproof in the photo - I know there are waterproof led's but they are very heavy compared to the non waterproof sets. Thanks

Mike
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 06:54 PM
Registered User
United States, NV, North Las Vegas
Joined Sep 2009
1,075 Posts
sorry for taking so long to reply Mike

I cut off one row of the fins all the way around the new heatsink creating a "lip". then I just used thermal compound and two 1/4 inch wide or so "rings" of heat shrink to secure the new heatsink to the ESC FET's. I then shrink wraped the whole ESC, cut a small square opening in the shrink over the heatsink, then shrunk it one more time sealing all around the heatsink "lip".

for mounting I used GOOP, I ran a bead all around the heatsink then inserted into the hole I cut in the arm. I used a small wedge of dense foam shoved under the ESC to hold it in place, I was going to remove the foam after the GOOP cured but decided to just leave it... it's only a few grams and this takes the "load" off the GOOP glue joint.

The LED's... I bought waterproof LED's just for this frame... they weigh over 40g per string! not wanting to add 80+g just for LED's I opted to make my own!

I used LED's from hobbypartz, these are about 4mm wide so around half the width of most LED's. Cut/soldered my color pattern of red/white/green and yellow into one LONG string. I then placed them using the double stick tape backing under the "lip" created when the frame halfs are joined. then I ran a piece of masking tape just above and just below the LED's, I used a thin layer of cyrstal clear silicone to cover/seal the LED's... once the silicone skined a bit I pealed off the masking tape leaving nice clean edges. It's a messy PIA but in the end I used 2 strings of LED's at 9g each, so 18g, the silicone seal cost me another 20g, half the weight of using waterproof LED's and they are double glued so to speak to the frame now
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Last edited by shultz; Nov 29, 2012 at 07:05 PM.
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