Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 09:14 AM
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United States, NV, North Las Vegas
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Tell me if I have this right from your pics and description. You have attached your electronics to the underside of the top hatch. Your lipo mount is attached to the bottom of the hub. To attach your lipo, you have to first remove the electronics to access the lipo from the top. Your esc units require attaching through the top surfaces of each arm. Is this correct?

The FC and receiver are mounted to the hatch, the hatch must be removed anyway to access the battery. By attaching the FC and receiver to the hatch all the stuff that would be in the way of placing the battery swings out of the way when the hatch is removed the ESC wires are routed to the back side of the frame and are long enough to allow the hatch to swing out so they are not in the way either. The power distro is made up of wire and sits underneath the Delrin square I made for the battery hold down. the hold down is bolted to the botom of the frame and not part of the hatch. I placed velcro on the hold down to keep the battery from sliding, a single strap secures it from lifting off the velcro during flips.

I modified my ESC's so I could attach them from the inside exposing the heatsink to Prop wash for cooling and still have a watertight(I hope) seal.

The ESC are plain old turnigy plush 25A (Atmel chips) flashed with SimonK. I bought some 25x25mm finned heatsinks and replaced the existing ESC heatsink with it. I removed one row of fins all the way around to creat a "lip" then heat shrinked around the ESC/heatsink. This lip is then coated with GOOP and then the whole thing is inserted into the hole I cut in the arm.

John
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Last edited by shultz; Nov 06, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 03:17 PM
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United States, OH, Columbus
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Mr Aquacopter,

Howz that DXF of the lid coming along. Maybe just the exact distance between the screw holes would suffice?

thanks
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingRodent View Post
Mr Aquacopter,

Howz that DXF of the lid coming along. Maybe just the exact distance between the screw holes would suffice?

thanks
.dxf is not a supported file type, but if you email me I can send you the file. Otherwise the hole spacing is roughly 3-7/8" or 98-99 mm
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 07:31 PM
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aquacopter (1 min 31 sec)


Pretty poor piloting, but it is a tiny space in my backyard. I don't have it waterproofed or I would have flown it into the pool. It flies more like a tank than a Ferrari, but hey, it floats!
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Old Nov 06, 2012, 10:37 PM
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Well my initial "dunk" test didn't go well! I though I had the ESC's all sealed up... I was right on THREE counts I thought, the small amount of water inside had leaked in around one set of motor wires as I had a few air bubbles pop out around them during the dunk test. I resealed the motor wires and dried out the inside, then decided to plug in and make sure everything worked... instant magic smoke

ESC has been replaced, resealed and all is well! another "dunk" test was just done... not one drop of water inside and more importantly... no magic smoke during power up

NOW... just to be CLEAR! I cut holes in my arms and mounted the ESC's from the inside sticking the heatsink THRU the arm so it would get prop wash and cooled. This method will work as long as you do it right

John
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Last edited by shultz; Nov 07, 2012 at 05:33 PM.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 01:00 AM
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Aug 2012
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I made some replacement lids with FC hole mounting spacing for myself and another user, and if anyone else would like one let me know here is the link to the thread on FS section http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post23222774
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 02:02 AM
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United States, FL, St Petersburg
Joined Nov 2005
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Originally Posted by markymarkz View Post
I made some replacement lids with FC hole mounting spacing for myself and another user, and if anyone else would like one let me know here is the link to the thread on FS section http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post23222774
Looks good I'll get a few extra whenever i get mine .
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 04:20 AM
Good Better Best quest.
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Australia, VIC, Cranbourne East
Joined Apr 2004
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Someones gotta try fishing with one .
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 07:51 PM
aka Helidaho
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United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
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Still waiting for a raised lid to fit my FPV gear
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 08:34 PM
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Arggg....I got my new motors in for my Aquaquad. It turns out the prop shaft secures the can to the motor base via a wheel collar setup, not a C-clip. This means I'd have to drill a big access hole in the motor mount area for clearance. Even with the X-mount seals I'd be worried about water intrusion..so now I need to order some new prop shafts that'll take C-clips...a few more days of waiting...again...
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 06:12 AM
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Canada, NS, Halifax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
Arggg....I got my new motors in for my Aquaquad. It turns out the prop shaft secures the can to the motor base via a wheel collar setup, not a C-clip. This means I'd have to drill a big access hole in the motor mount area for clearance. Even with the X-mount seals I'd be worried about water intrusion..so now I need to order some new prop shafts that'll take C-clips...a few more days of waiting...again...
Could you possibly use small spacers between the frame and x mount to raise it slightly?
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:08 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by flitelab View Post
Could you possibly use small spacers between the frame and x mount to raise it slightly?
Yeah, I could add spacers, but they'd stand up taller than I'd really like. I've got replacement shafts on order...a few minute swap out job when they arrived.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 03:04 AM
Mmmmmmm!
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Kingdom of Sweden, Dalarna County, Sater
Joined Oct 2011
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Anyone have any motor recommendations? I have a couple of 1350kv NTM motors here but they have a shafts that stick out of the bottom so I can't use the motors until I've cut off the shafts. What kind of battery will fit inside this frame? I'm going to order stuff from Hobbyking very soon, so I want to know what I need to buy to get roughly 8-10 mins out of this quad.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiseDuck View Post
Anyone have any motor recommendations? I have a couple of 1350kv NTM motors here but they have a shafts that stick out of the bottom so I can't use the motors until I've cut off the shafts. What kind of battery will fit inside this frame? I'm going to order stuff from Hobbyking very soon, so I want to know what I need to buy to get roughly 8-10 mins out of this quad.
I doubt you will get 8-10 minutes. I can fit a 3000mah 3s battery but nothing bigger. Old batteries but I can only get 7 minutes before the alarm goes off. I have tiger motor 2216/12 800kvs on mine. Im using Turnigy Plush 25amp esc's. I have motor mounts off tiger motors, Sunnysky motors, RCTimer motors and Turnigy motors and none of them fitted the motor hole pattern, I had to file the motor mount holes to get them to fit. Apart from that and the wish the frame was just a little bit bigger to fit a decent sized battery its a good frame, pretty happy. Its only spring here so the temperatures are pretty mild but the inside of the frame after a 6 minute flight is getting warm, not sure what its going to be like in the middle of summer.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:16 PM
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Port Coquitlam, BC CANADA
Joined Jun 2009
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So How Does It Fly?

So far, the only one who has mentioned flying characteristics has been Oddcopter. How does the Aquacopter handle in the air compared to other 450 sized pplatforms like the DJI? Also, how hard is it or would it be to mount a Naza/GPS system on one of these? Could the Naza, GPS and lipo fit inside of one of these?

I would like to get a closer look at how the GoPro was mounted in the video showing the underwater shots. Yes, I know. Too many questions.
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